colin75

Im thinking of installing a set of umbrella seals for a quick fix. I really dont want to remove heads. This car smokes a little bit when started up. Anyone use these? THIS MOTOR HAS BEEN REBUILT BUT I THINK SITTING MAY HAV DRIED OUT SEALS.

Scott Marzahl

Umbrella seals are fine, just make sure to use the Viton ones and you do not want to use them in combination with the stock "O" ring seal or you prevent too much oil from reaching the valve guide. Some folks also remove the splash shield when using umbrella seals. There are lots of different approaches and views on these combinations, not sure you'll get two people to ever agree when it comes to valve seals. GM and Fel Pro both offer the Viton seals.

bytor

I replaced mine last year and used the umbrella type. They worked fine, No more smoking on start up...

stingr69

The black rubber umbrella seals are fine especialy for a quick fix on a car that will need a valve job in the near future. Pop off the reainers and discard the metal umbrellas if they are still on there when you go in there to add the new seals. Most of the original metal umbrellas have been tossed in the trash many years ago.

-Mark.

WESCH

Hi

Replaced mine some summers ago.
The old once of the 427 CI BB where cracked.





Rgds. Günther

Hells Bells 73

i used both, talk to your parts store, make sure they are from the old school they will hook you up.

colin75

After i install air hose in spark plug hole i remove the spring retainer and slip umbrella seal over valve and reinstall spring keeper. Is that close to the right process?

...Roger...

Remove keepers,retainer,spring,old seal or o-ring,install umbrella,spring,retainer and keepers.Dont compress spring so far that you damage new umbrella.

colin75

Thanks

bytor

I used a bungee cord in the spark plug hole to keep the valve from dropping. Here's a picture link of when I did it on my 78..
http://picasaweb.google.com/Walllpar...temReplacement

81_vette!

Getting ready to do cylinder # 8 (closest to the passenger) ?


1. So, I should cram a bunch of rope in the plug hole? Just scrunch it up in there?



2. I should remove the distributor cap and check to see that I am pointing to the #8 cylinder? This will mean that both valves are OK to work on without the fear of the stem dropping down too far?


This is my first time doing this - so I am open to pointers. Great pics listed above!!!!!

Paul L

Keepers like to hibernate in small holes such as oil return passages. Use a magnetic telescoping tool to keep them in the right places. And a magnetic parts pan to keep them corralled.

Golden

Don't do what I did on a VW the other day and got sloppy, didn't realise the air hose had turned the engine 180 degrees, the valve came unseated and dropped down the bore.

Stem seals turned into a head gasket :o

81_vette!

Yea - that's my concern.

I wonder if I could use a magnet on the valve stem to keep if from falling?

Golden

The rope/bungie is the safer option, I have the tool to use the air compressor which is quicker, but not when you drop the valve down the cylinder

GUSTO14

If you decide to use the rope trick here, use a quality piece of rope that will not shed (like a piece of hemp rope) as it goes in and out of the spark plug hole. I've used a piece of nylon rope and many years ago even used a length of electric lamp cord. It's important to slip just enough into the cylinder, but not too much. Once you get the rope in the cylinder, gently rotate the crank (by hand with a ratchet or breaker bar) until you feel the rope jam against the cylinder head. After installing the seal and reinstalling the spring and keeper, rotate the crank in reverse to free the rope and then gently pull it out of the cylinder and move on to the next one.

As for installing the umbrella seals, you must be careful to get them past the grooves on the valve stem without nicking the seal lip. Most of these seals will come with a thin clear plastic cap to slip over the valve stem. It will extend down past the grooves in the valve stem and you then slip the seal over the plastic cap without a chance of nicking the seal. Handle it carefully and you'll install all of the seals with room to spare.

I prefer to use the air compressor adapter these days as it's much faster, but yes you do want to make sure the cylinder is on top. If it's off center a bit the air will push the piston back down and afford an opportunity for the valve to drop. Do it carefully and that won't happen and the job will go much faster.

One other thing, just before you compress the spring, take a rubber mallet and strike the top of the valve stem smartly. This will ensure that once you compress the spring, the keepers and retainer will easily come off the valve stem.

Fel Pro makes a very good seal that installs easily and lasts a long time... Jegs carries them and they are not very expensive.


http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel+Pro/375/SS72527/10002/-1

Good luck... it's not exactly a fun job, but the results are rewarding... GUSTO

motorwiz

[QUOTE=81_vette!;1577840968]Getting ready to do cylinder # 8 (closest to the passenger) ?
1. So, I should cram a bunch of rope in the plug hole? Just scrunch it up in there?
2. I should remove the distributor cap and check to see that I am pointing to the #8 cylinder? This will mean that both valves are OK to work on without the fear of the stem dropping down too far?
This is my first time doing this - so I am open to pointers. Great pics listed above!!!!![/QUOTE}

IF YOU HAVE EVER SEEN someone drop a valve because they lost air pressure? I have and well lets just say now you got a project !
clothes line works great and will not fail, been over 30 yrs since i last witnessed it. takes more time TO DO ALL CYLINDERS THIS WAY but it's worth it

derekderek

Informative thread, but it has been 8 years. They probly figured it out by now...

motorwiz

you looked at this post and so did I . but i was looking for synthetic rubber,this info is for wannabe mechanics INFO

HeadsU.P.

What's with people bringing up this old shet lately? I read through a dozen posts then realize its from the Fred Flintstone C3 era.

Cut that out!