small oil leak on new engine?
08-30-2008, 12:45 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
small oil leak on new engine?
started up my brand new 383 motor today, to find a small oil leak, coming from the flexplate area
its clear engine oil, its not pink trans fluid
its dripping from just below main crank shaft, weather its coming from the main real seal or the oil pan seal, hard to tell, leaks when running, but also leaks when engine off, but not as fast, its leaking at a rate of 1 drip every 10 secs
checked dizzy, oil prssure sender and oil filter areas, no signs of oil, also checked all the oil pan bolts all seem tight.
has anyone any ideas on this one, bearing in mind its brand new, it cant be the real main seal!, im thinking it maybe the oil pan seal??
cheers
dave
its clear engine oil, its not pink trans fluid
its dripping from just below main crank shaft, weather its coming from the main real seal or the oil pan seal, hard to tell, leaks when running, but also leaks when engine off, but not as fast, its leaking at a rate of 1 drip every 10 secs
checked dizzy, oil prssure sender and oil filter areas, no signs of oil, also checked all the oil pan bolts all seem tight.
has anyone any ideas on this one, bearing in mind its brand new, it cant be the real main seal!, im thinking it maybe the oil pan seal??
cheers
dave
08-30-2008, 05:33 PM
#2
Drifting
On mine at first start up, I had a leak from the back of the intake manifold onto the back ledge of the block and would leak all the way down to the splash plate of the tranny. Start looking there first. You can tell if a small pool of oil is on top of the block back ledge.
Otherwise if your sure you see nothing above in that area then focus on the crankshaft main seal. Look up from underneath with flashlight and see if any drops are there. Leaks are painful and can come from many areas. I had to pull heads and intake to fix two. But now they're gone for good and all is well.
Otherwise if your sure you see nothing above in that area then focus on the crankshaft main seal. Look up from underneath with flashlight and see if any drops are there. Leaks are painful and can come from many areas. I had to pull heads and intake to fix two. But now they're gone for good and all is well.
08-30-2008, 07:00 PM
#3
Instructor
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Same thing happened to me and everyone said it couldn't be the rear seal. I changed the pan gasket and it still leaked so I changed the new rear seal and put another new seal in and it hasn't leaked since.
08-30-2008, 07:03 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
On mine at first start up, I had a leak from the back of the intake manifold onto the back ledge of the block and would leak all the way down to the splash plate of the tranny. Start looking there first. You can tell if a small pool of oil is on top of the block back ledge.
Otherwise if your sure you see nothing above in that area then focus on the crankshaft main seal. Look up from underneath with flashlight and see if any drops are there. Leaks are painful and can come from many areas. I had to pull heads and intake to fix two. But now they're gone for good and all is well.
Otherwise if your sure you see nothing above in that area then focus on the crankshaft main seal. Look up from underneath with flashlight and see if any drops are there. Leaks are painful and can come from many areas. I had to pull heads and intake to fix two. But now they're gone for good and all is well.
cheers
dave
08-30-2008, 07:07 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
cheers
dave
08-30-2008, 08:26 PM
#6
Drifting
FelPro has a one-piece oil pan gasket that is absolutely the best thing thing sliced bread! I just installed one because I had an annoying small leak. While the car was on jackstands for other work, I changed the pan gasket, "while I was at it". 
I don't have power steering, so all I had to do was unbolt the idler arm from the frame to provide clearance to drop the pan. The new one-piece gasket comes with new bolts and star washers they recommend you install. It also comes with four little plastic things that you screw into the corner bolt holes in the block. These hold the gasket in place as you put the pan on. I hate pulling the pan with the engine in the car, it's always a PITA, but with this new wonder gasket, it's a piece of cake! It appears to be reusable too, so if you do have to replace the rear seal, you won't have to buy another pan gasket.
Cheers,
Pete
I don't have power steering, so all I had to do was unbolt the idler arm from the frame to provide clearance to drop the pan. The new one-piece gasket comes with new bolts and star washers they recommend you install. It also comes with four little plastic things that you screw into the corner bolt holes in the block. These hold the gasket in place as you put the pan on. I hate pulling the pan with the engine in the car, it's always a PITA, but with this new wonder gasket, it's a piece of cake! It appears to be reusable too, so if you do have to replace the rear seal, you won't have to buy another pan gasket.
Cheers,
Pete
08-30-2008, 11:06 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
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I had my motor rebuilt at the shop and now have 500 miles on it I have an oil leak coming from the front of the motor and also the rear. I was going to change the pan gasket myself but thought, it's still under warrenty so they should do it. Have to call them up and arrange it. Sucks when you have a new motor and expect no oil leaks. Tony
08-30-2008, 11:13 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
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On mine at first start up, I had a leak from the back of the intake manifold onto the back ledge of the block and would leak all the way down to the splash plate of the tranny. Start looking there first. You can tell if a small pool of oil is on top of the block back ledge.
Otherwise if your sure you see nothing above in that area then focus on the crankshaft main seal. Look up from underneath with flashlight and see if any drops are there. Leaks are painful and can come from many areas. I had to pull heads and intake to fix two. But now they're gone for good and all is well.
Otherwise if your sure you see nothing above in that area then focus on the crankshaft main seal. Look up from underneath with flashlight and see if any drops are there. Leaks are painful and can come from many areas. I had to pull heads and intake to fix two. But now they're gone for good and all is well.
08-30-2008, 11:43 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
Which rear main seal did you use, there have been several reports of new Fel Pro Blue main seals leaking and an article in the "Restorer" on this issue with the discrepant part number. Apparently its best to use the Orange colored rear seal.
08-31-2008, 02:07 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
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Maybe drivers side valve cover leaking in the bottom corner in the rear...When I rebuilt the engine started it up ran great then chased the oil leak...it was running down the block to the inspection cover made it look like a rear main
I changed the gaskets the cover was a little warped...might take a look at that 
I changed the gaskets the cover was a little warped...might take a look at that
08-31-2008, 02:50 AM
#11
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Dave, might be worthwhile looking real closely at the back of the block for any signs of oil. There's freeze plugs back there, blocking off oil galleries and at the back of the cam tunnel. It would be a shame to replace the rear seal if something else is the real cause.
08-31-2008, 04:00 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I had my motor rebuilt at the shop and now have 500 miles on it I have an oil leak coming from the front of the motor and also the rear. I was going to change the pan gasket myself but thought, it's still under warrenty so they should do it. Have to call them up and arrange it. Sucks when you have a new motor and expect no oil leaks. Tony
one small problem, im in glasgow, scotland, uk lol
cheers
dave
08-31-2008, 07:07 AM
#14
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Hi Dave, truely amazing isn't it? You're in Glasgow, I'm in Sydney, and we're pondering over a problem with a car built in the good ol' US of A.
Do you convert them to Right Hand Drive over there, or are you able to drive 'em Left Hook?
Do you convert them to Right Hand Drive over there, or are you able to drive 'em Left Hook?
08-31-2008, 07:20 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
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Good luck Dave...
oil leaks on new motor's are really annoying! lol, yeah ive checked all round that area, but nothing there, its either rear main seal or badly fitting oil pan seal, im hoping its the last one, im going check around the crank area tomorrow, try see if there's oil on the shaft or above it.
cheers
dave
cheers
dave
I feel your pain. I'm NOT happy w/ oil pressure at idle (17 psi) w/ new everything. Soooo...I get to move the steering gear out of the way and drop the pan this morning and install a new Melling pump. THEN, I get to worry about getting the gasket to seal after tearing it apart. I recon I'll be using a bit of that blue Permatex RTV (silicone) gasket stuff - for insurance, I recon!
I look at it this way...It could be worse! Working on my (former) LT1 Vette, NOTHING was easy. Now that I'm drivin' a ZR-1/LT5, tho it has it's quirks, it is a lot easier to do the routine stuff - just a LOT more of it. So, in comparison, working on my wife's lil' SBC 69 C3 Vert w/ only a water pump and alternator hangin on it, it is a joy to work on - comparatively speaking! (Now...where'd I put that dang timing light??
)P.
Last edited by Paul Workman; 08-31-2008 at 07:26 AM.
08-31-2008, 12:42 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
yeah it certainly is amazing!
no, keep it lefthand drive, we are allowed to drive left hookers over here, once iam on the road, it doesnt really bother me.
cheers
dave
08-31-2008, 12:49 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hope it is something easy...like pan gasket (I'm guessing that to be the most likely, since it leaks w/ the engine not running.)
I feel your pain. I'm NOT happy w/ oil pressure at idle (17 psi) w/ new everything. Soooo...I get to move the steering gear out of the way and drop the pan this morning and install a new Melling pump. THEN, I get to worry about getting the gasket to seal after tearing it apart. I recon I'll be using a bit of that blue Permatex RTV (silicone) gasket stuff - for insurance, I recon!
I look at it this way...It could be worse! Working on my (former) LT1 Vette, NOTHING was easy. Now that I'm drivin' a ZR-1/LT5, tho it has it's quirks, it is a lot easier to do the routine stuff - just a LOT more of it. So, in comparison, working on my wife's lil' SBC 69 C3 Vert w/ only a water pump and alternator hangin on it, it is a joy to work on - comparatively speaking! (Now...where'd I put that dang timing light??)
P.
I feel your pain. I'm NOT happy w/ oil pressure at idle (17 psi) w/ new everything. Soooo...I get to move the steering gear out of the way and drop the pan this morning and install a new Melling pump. THEN, I get to worry about getting the gasket to seal after tearing it apart. I recon I'll be using a bit of that blue Permatex RTV (silicone) gasket stuff - for insurance, I recon!
I look at it this way...It could be worse! Working on my (former) LT1 Vette, NOTHING was easy. Now that I'm drivin' a ZR-1/LT5, tho it has it's quirks, it is a lot easier to do the routine stuff - just a LOT more of it. So, in comparison, working on my wife's lil' SBC 69 C3 Vert w/ only a water pump and alternator hangin on it, it is a joy to work on - comparatively speaking! (Now...where'd I put that dang timing light??
)P.
my oil pressure is great, starts of at 70, then drops to about 60 at about 190c, is that too high for oil pressure??
I wired up my electric fans today, they work like a charm 1st time!, that put a smile back on my face! lol
good luck with your oil pressure
cheers
dave