SharkintheWoods

Has anyone run one of these, it is a TFS-K31401001? After chasing gremlins for what seemed like an eternity, I got it to idle and timed. Unfortunately it is idling like a top fuel dragster. Here are the specifics:
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,700-5,700
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228 int./234 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 284
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 290
Advertised Duration: 284 int./290 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.494 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 int./0.494 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Should it be idling like this, or do I need to look further. I am going to hook up a vacuum gauge tomorrow and see what it is pulling, but until then any comments would be great.

SteveG75

That is a good sized cam for a 350 and the 110 lobe sep will cause a rougher idle than stock. Narrow lobe seps tend to idle rougher but make more peak power. Wider lobe seps have a smoother idle and a wider power band, but lower peaks.

Here are the specs for the stock L-82 cam:
Intake duration @ .050- 222
Exhaust Duration @ .050- 222
Intake Lift- .450"
Exhaust Lift- .450"
Lobe Centerline- 114

Note the 114 lobe sep angle. Also, slightly less duration as well.

GlockGuy

I have the TFS-31402002 hydraulic roller cam and and the Trick Flow 23 degree heads. My car also idles choppy, like a drag car.

Part Number: TFS-31402002
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 3,500-7,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 246
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 254
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 246 int./254 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 308
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 316
Advertised Duration: 308 int./316 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.558 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.558 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.558 int./0.558 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Computer Controlled Compatible: No
Quantity: Sold individually.

Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 308/316, Lift .558/.558, Chevy, Small Block, Each

Gordonm

That should idle with a slight lope but that is not to radical of a cam. Justs lightly more than a L82 cam. I ran a 244 @ .050 with a .525 lift in my 350 and it idled with a lope but not to bad. It pulled about 10 inches of vacuum. Put the vacuum gauge on it. What are your timing specs at idle.

The Money Pit

That's not a very big cam really, even for a 350. I'd crank up the initial timing and it'll smooth out I bet. I ran the Vette 151 cam years ago, and it had 222@.050, and you could set a glass of water on the air cleaner and it would barely ripple the water.

The 406 I run now will tip the glass over!

SharkintheWoods

I finally put a vacuum gauge on it. Right now it pulls 15 inches at idle and the timing is set at -10.
It is still missing and the mixture seems too high. I have the idle mixture screws on my Edelbrock carb out 3.5 turns. How far can you go with these?
I would like to check fire on each cylinder, but I am not a fan of pulling each boot and checking for fire on each one around the hot headers. Any tricks on this one?

Brown79

3.5 turns on your mixture screws seems a bit rich. I'm no expert on carbs, but I think on Holley's 1.5-2.5 turns is the general range. Not sure if this would apply to an Edelbrock.

sly vette

Explain"timing set at -10".
I hope this means 10 degrees btdc.
Set your timing so you get 35 degrees or so all in by 2500rpm.s and let the static timing fall where ever it may.
Personally I think you have a dead cylinder with poss no spark or a fouled plug or your off on the firing order.

DC3

You can use a timing light on each plug wire to make sure the distributor is firing properly but that won't tell you if the spark is getting to the plug.

Check your boots when the engine is cold to make sure none have melted due to the heat from the headers. I just solved a miss problem with my engine. Turns out I had 3 melted boots. Plug wires were brand new but the boots didn't hold up to the heat. Replaced the boots with high temp silicone ones and added heat socks. So far so good.

I actually found my problem while using the timing light on each plug wire. While checking I noticed the timing light pattern seemed erratic on a couple of the cylinders as compared to the others so I pulled the wires at the plug to check that they were tight and that's when I found the holes in the boots.

DC

SharkintheWoods

Sweet! Timing light, why didn't I think of this to check fire on each individual cylinder.
Everything is new on the top end except the carb, and it has been kicking my butt for the last month or so. It hasn't run in six years since it has been an off and on project. I will have to yank the tach back out before I check the overall timing to get some rpm readings. The used cluster I purchased five years ago apparently had a bad tach in it. If it is not one thing it is another. Amazing how you forget all the nuances of what you worked on six years ago. But long story short, it is 10 BTDC at idle.
Thanks for all the comments, I have felt like pushing it out in the street with a free sign on it many times.