fiberglass seperated from door
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
fiberglass seperated from door
hi 1971 vette, the fiberglass is separated from the door frame on the bottom of door about five inches of it,what can i do to fix it.and how hard is it to take off the doors. getting ready to paint soon.thanks
#2
Le Mans Master
It probably seperated due to rust of the door metal. I'd peel it away from the bottom of the door as much as possible. Sand/grind the metal to remove any rust. Grind/sand the panel to remove old adhesive and re-attach with epoxy.
The doors come off with 4 bolts per hinge. If you have power windows you need to unhook that wiring.
The doors come off with 4 bolts per hinge. If you have power windows you need to unhook that wiring.
#4
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Hi C71,
There's a small 'access' plate in the upper corner of the door that you remove (screws), to get to the bolts that hold the door to the upper hinge. You'll see the 'access' for the lower hinge bolts as soon as you take the inner door panel off. You don't need to remove any dash panels. The door's heavy so be prepared to support it.
Someone else will help with your 'bond' question.
Regards,
Alan
There's a small 'access' plate in the upper corner of the door that you remove (screws), to get to the bolts that hold the door to the upper hinge. You'll see the 'access' for the lower hinge bolts as soon as you take the inner door panel off. You don't need to remove any dash panels. The door's heavy so be prepared to support it.
Someone else will help with your 'bond' question.
Regards,
Alan
#5
Le Mans Master
I've used Evercoat epoxy for this job, no special applicator gun required, just a caulking gun.
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=270
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=270
#7
Melting Slicks
I had the same issue, the old adhesive is wearing out.
I went to o'reillies and bought a tube of 3M two-part panel adhesive. You actually need a special double cylinder caulk gun to use it....I cheeped out and cut the tube and mixed the epoxy and hardener with a bondo spreader.
I just clamped it together with a few c-clamps and let it sit for the allotted time and it held perfectly.
This stuff is industrial quality, and not cheap, around $40 but Works great!
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Automix-Bon.../dp/B000PEW4MI
I went to o'reillies and bought a tube of 3M two-part panel adhesive. You actually need a special double cylinder caulk gun to use it....I cheeped out and cut the tube and mixed the epoxy and hardener with a bondo spreader.
I just clamped it together with a few c-clamps and let it sit for the allotted time and it held perfectly.
This stuff is industrial quality, and not cheap, around $40 but Works great!
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Automix-Bon.../dp/B000PEW4MI
#9
Drifting
Also mark the hinge bolts in relation to the hinge, it makes for an easier time realigning the door for a good fit in the body opening.
Alan's method is much easier to do, sliding the door off the hinge arms is a good way to go.
Alan's method is much easier to do, sliding the door off the hinge arms is a good way to go.
Last edited by 1Fordman; 10-27-2008 at 10:46 PM.
#10
Burning Brakes
Mine had the same problem you really should use the SEM epoxy. I used the epoxy aqnd the body shop loaned me the 2 piston gun. Clean everything up and glue things togther and clamp if for 24 hours and it will be as good as new. I took my doors off by unbolting the hinges from the door and leaving the hinges on the car.
#12
Le Mans Master
It won't bond to the steel door shell like the Evercoat epoxy, 3M 8115 epoxy or SEM Epoxies. You can't go wrong with either of them.
I drill a 1/8" hole right through the hinge into the door shell before I remove the door from the hinges, it makes for an easy reference when reinstalling. Just insert a couple of 1/8" drill bits for alignment.
I drill a 1/8" hole right through the hinge into the door shell before I remove the door from the hinges, it makes for an easy reference when reinstalling. Just insert a couple of 1/8" drill bits for alignment.