C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Distributors

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-09-2009, 07:05 PM
  #1  
Schaggy
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Schaggy's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2008
Location: Eugene OR
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Distributors

Hello Everyone,

It's about time I get rid of my points setup. The car is a summertime driver ('72 350 car) and my budget says I'm going HEI, so I'm looking for feedback on the different options out there. Does anyone have any experience with the CRT gear-drive distributors?

http://www.crtperformance.com/html/gm_chevy_hei.html

How about the unbranded solution from Ecklers?

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...5&dept_id=1285

Anybody had good luck with anything else in the sub-$300 price range?

Thanks!
Old 01-09-2009, 08:13 PM
  #2  
LB66383
Drifting
 
LB66383's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2002
Location: Long Beach CA
Posts: 1,942
Received 26 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

The problem with going with a different distributor is that you're going to have to set up the vacuum and mechanical advance curves for your engine. If you're not skilled at that, you'll have to pay someone to do it. It's not just a drop it in and go situation. Why not just replace the points in your existing distributor with a Pertronix or similar unit?
Old 01-09-2009, 09:48 PM
  #3  
temvette72
Racer
 
temvette72's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: Temecula CA
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I bought the hei unit on Ebay with the orange cap. It bolted right in and after setting the initial timing (my eyeball installation was just about dead nuts on), the mechanical and vacuum advance curves were just about perfect (according to the sticky in this forum). I am very happy with how the car runs. My seat-of-the-pants dyno says it is a big improvement from my tired points set up.

Temvette72
Old 01-09-2009, 10:31 PM
  #4  
DC3
Melting Slicks
 
DC3's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2001
Location: Lubbock Texas
Posts: 2,024
Received 353 Likes on 254 Posts

Default

The previous owner of my '73 installed a junk yard HEI while at the same time replacing the tach with a later model electronic tach. Works fine (now). He should have disassembled the HEI distributor and thoroughly cleaned it up. I was having problems getting full mechanical advance and when I disassembled the HEI unit, I found it was in good shape but all gunked up. I completely disassembled it and cleaned it up and that restored the mechanical advance to what it should have been. Also, the vacuum advance unit was bad on the distributor he picked up and he never replaced it, just ran without vacuum advance. I installed an adjustable vacuum advance but couldn't get it set right. When I had the engine dyno tuned, the shop owner found the new adjustable advance I had purchased was bad. He installed a new one and it now works great. Overall, I suspect the total cost of the junk yard HEI, my repairs and the electronic tach upgrade was quite a bit less than the $300 you mentioned but I don't know that for sure.

I can't find the link right now but I did find an article on the web about how to disassemble and repair HEI distributors. It's not that hard and the parts are available. Even if you have to buy a new coil, module, cap etc. it could still be very cost effective to find a used one.

Also, search the site for a link to distributor papers by Lars. Good info in his writings. Allowed me to choose a set of springs for proper mechanical advance that the mechanic did not have to change when I had it dyno tuned.

Good luck.

DC
Old 01-09-2009, 11:45 PM
  #5  
G dad
Burning Brakes
 
G dad's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: THE OLDER I GET THE BETTER I WAS! NORTHERN ONTARIO
Posts: 764
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by LB66383
Why not just replace the points in your existing distributor with a Pertronix or similar unit?


I did this for a friend of mine with a 70 Rag I think it was a Crane unit! works fine
Old 01-10-2009, 10:06 AM
  #6  
69Vett
Safety Car
 
69Vett's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 3,729
Received 254 Likes on 230 Posts
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist

Default

I also bought a new E-bay HEI with tach drive, Dragonfire - about $100
I decided to inspect it first, and glad I did found some pickup wires stuck,
under the Heat sink module, fixed that, and it runs like a top after install,
and it uses standard GM parts incase I need them, later down the road.
here is a link to a similar Dist:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-...Q5fAccessories
Old 01-10-2009, 10:47 AM
  #7  
crazywelder
Drifting
 
crazywelder's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Yooperville MI
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

I've installed 5 tach drive HEI's since they came out and also some Pro-Form HEI's on later model cars. They work well but the quality is not as good as an OEM distributor. My opinion is go for the MSD tach drive if it's in the budget.

A Delco cap does not always fit the import distributor housing either because of a different size grommet for the wire harness, or the housing diameter itself is slightly smaller. The latter eliminates use of a Delco cap.
The threads on the tach drive adapter were slighly different on 3 of the units. Not a problem for a cable nut, but the angle adapters would not work without chasing the threads on the distributor adapter.
The coil connectors and grounds are flimsy.
The pick-up coil feels cheap. Had one short out internally.
The mechanical advance mechanism might be assembled slightly bent and will stick in a partially advanced position. Quality and movement is not like OEM. Check for easy movement before you install it and annually afterwards checking for corrosion.
Old 01-10-2009, 10:55 AM
  #8  
Paul L
Team Owner
 
Paul L's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Ontario
Posts: 30,995
Received 93 Likes on 91 Posts

Default

Just a reminder that you can't use the top ignition shield with HEI and the spark plug wires will have to be changed.
Old 01-10-2009, 11:23 AM
  #9  
noonie
Race Director
 
noonie's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 14,111
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

The metal shielding from a 75 is made for the hei.

Later years use a plastic shielding.

Hei is a great option, you can always relace internals in future with Delco.
Old 01-10-2009, 12:27 PM
  #10  
crazywelder
Drifting
 
crazywelder's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Yooperville MI
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by noonie

The metal shielding from a 75 is made for the hei.

you can always relace internals in future with Delco.
The '75 top shield won't fit on '72 and earlier C3's due to wiper motor clearance. '73 and later wiper motors are different.

A '70-'74 top shield will fit just right over the HEI, but it's snug around the cap and will mount to the brackets. Since you'll need new wires, buy cut-to-length wires such as MSD and route them to save space around the outside of the cap, except #2 & #3 need to go over the top instead of around the outside. You'll also need to cut a slot for the power harness on the back side of the shield.

HEI wires are larger diameter and won't fit through the side shield grommets, but those grommets can be eliminated.

On '73 and '74 cars, you can use the '75 top shield because of the new wiper motor style.
Old 01-10-2009, 12:47 PM
  #11  
RMS73
Melting Slicks
 
RMS73's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Chester Virginia
Posts: 2,317
Received 365 Likes on 215 Posts

Default

I just install a Mallory Unilite conversion kit on my 73 L-82. So far so good.

Roger
Old 01-10-2009, 12:57 PM
  #12  
Donald #31176
Melting Slicks
 
Donald #31176's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 0
Received 163 Likes on 143 Posts

Default

Why not blueprint the present distributor optimizing the ignition curve and using HD points, rotor and cap. Shouldnt cost more than $100 including parts and the performance should be equal or better than most generic ignition systems.
Old 01-10-2009, 01:21 PM
  #13  
Paul L
Team Owner
 
Paul L's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Ontario
Posts: 30,995
Received 93 Likes on 91 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ahoover
The '75 top shield won't fit on '72 and earlier C3's due to wiper motor clearance. '73 and later wiper motors are different.

A '70-'74 top shield will fit just right over the HEI, but it's snug around the cap and will mount to the brackets. Since you'll need new wires, buy cut-to-length wires such as MSD and route them to save space around the outside of the cap, except #2 & #3 need to go over the top instead of around the outside. You'll also need to cut a slot for the power harness on the back side of the shield.

HEI wires are larger diameter and won't fit through the side shield grommets, but those grommets can be eliminated.

On '73 and '74 cars, you can use the '75 top shield because of the new wiper motor style.
Thanks. That's interesting to know for my 1974!


Last edited by Paul L; 01-10-2009 at 01:24 PM.
Old 01-10-2009, 05:35 PM
  #14  
Shu68
Heel & Toe
 
Shu68's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Little Elm TX
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I am looking at dropping in the Eckler's unit and would be real intrested if anyone has used this specific unit.

Thanks,
Shu
Old 01-10-2009, 06:46 PM
  #15  
SmokinBBC
Drifting
 
SmokinBBC's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Oak Ridge NC
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I don't need no stinkin shield


Name:  IMG_0801-1.jpg
Views: 68
Size:  120.9 KB


Name:  IMG_0509.jpg
Views: 77
Size:  127.9 KB
Old 01-10-2009, 07:21 PM
  #16  
Paul L
Team Owner
 
Paul L's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Ontario
Posts: 30,995
Received 93 Likes on 91 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by SmokinBBC
I don't need no stinkin shield





Others do....
Old 01-10-2009, 07:32 PM
  #17  
SmokinBBC
Drifting
 
SmokinBBC's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Oak Ridge NC
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by paul 74
Others do....

Yea....I kind of get that from the previous responses. But thanks for ponting that out for me

Get notified of new replies

To Distributors

Old 01-11-2009, 04:26 AM
  #18  
noonie
Race Director
 
noonie's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 14,111
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ahoover
The '75 top shield won't fit on '72 and earlier C3's due to wiper motor clearance........
Good to know, put in lots of Hei's but never the bling over them. Didn't even put mine on the 75 back on.

I guess for the correct crowd, the small cap hei would be best on the older cars for appearance.
Old 01-11-2009, 12:48 PM
  #19  
JimT
Burning Brakes
 
JimT's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Orange Park Florida
Posts: 893
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts

Default Cheap Distributors

I'm also looking for a new HEI distributor. Be careful when you purchase a "less expensive" Dist. I purchased one in a group buy here on the forum (Speed City I think) and it lasted less than 2 years. I do not race, and, the engine rarely exceeds 3500 RPMs. One of the pins that secures the advance weights/springs came loose and threw parts everywhere. Thus causing major damage to the rotor and a module plug. Upon close inspection I found that the two pins were "pushed in to place" in the rotor bar and not welded. Apparently constant use caused one of the pins to work loose then fail.
Think twice!
Old 01-11-2009, 05:51 PM
  #20  
Paul L
Team Owner
 
Paul L's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Ontario
Posts: 30,995
Received 93 Likes on 91 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by JimT
I'm also looking for a new HEI distributor. Be careful when you purchase a "less expensive" Dist. I purchased one in a group buy here on the forum (Speed City I think) and it lasted less than 2 years. I do not race, and, the engine rarely exceeds 3500 RPMs. One of the pins that secures the advance weights/springs came loose and threw parts everywhere. Thus causing major damage to the rotor and a module plug. Upon close inspection I found that the two pins were "pushed in to place" in the rotor bar and not welded. Apparently constant use caused one of the pins to work loose then fail.
Think twice!
Sometimes new school China is not as good as old school USA. I just rebuild the old.



Quick Reply: Distributors



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:03 PM.