Fuel Pump Pushrod
02-10-2009, 06:11 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Fuel Pump Pushrod
Would there be any reason NOT to use the fuel pump pushrod from my 1971 GM 350 in my new ZZ 383? I have not pulled blockoff plate from ZZ yet, but do not think it is included with the motor. If I need to get another, has anyone got a part number?
02-11-2009, 11:13 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2001
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GM p/n 3704817
GMPP cat reads "These parts are used on all Small-Block Engines" the list includes "Fuel Pump Push Rod" p/n 3704817.
Plenty ZZ4 motors run in circletrackers around here ... ZZ4 has OE roller cam (and it's steel not cast iron as in 71 C3) ... regardless, they run a plain push rod for mechanical pump. Make sure your old pr ain't scarred up and smear some lithium or moly grease on its cam side tip. Or try local dealership for a new 3704817 ... if it's in stock locally, I wouldn't be surprised if under $10. Grease new too.
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...D&ProdID=30411 ... read prod desc "Works on roller cam and non rollercam engines"
Plenty ZZ4 motors run in circletrackers around here ... ZZ4 has OE roller cam (and it's steel not cast iron as in 71 C3) ... regardless, they run a plain push rod for mechanical pump. Make sure your old pr ain't scarred up and smear some lithium or moly grease on its cam side tip. Or try local dealership for a new 3704817 ... if it's in stock locally, I wouldn't be surprised if under $10. Grease new too.
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...D&ProdID=30411 ... read prod desc "Works on roller cam and non rollercam engines"
02-11-2009, 11:44 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Great Resource !!!!!!!!!!!
As usual, this forum is such a huge factor in an over the hill rookie rebuilder like me being able to accomplish a frame-off(or try,LOL).
Jackson,
I have that catalog, and all the time I have been searching parts in it, never even saw that page, until you mentioned it!
Thank you for the help!
Jackson,
I have that catalog, and all the time I have been searching parts in it, never even saw that page, until you mentioned it!
Thank you for the help!
02-11-2009, 03:19 PM
#5
Pro
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Also if not already aware it's much easier to install a new pushrod/fuel pump if you use that bolt hole in the front of the engine and gently thread it in so holds the pushrod in place for you when you're installing the fuel pump. Then later of course put a short bolt in there (that won't contact the rod) w/thread sealer so oil doesn't leak out. You prbly. already know that but someone else may not. I put a new standard type rod in when I installed my ZZ383. It's a neat engine and have been enjoying it for about 3 years now and still experimenting with tuning on it.
02-11-2009, 06:18 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Bolt Hole
Hi WillEE,
I have read about that method and planned on trying it. Pulled the sealoff plate on my new ZZ to make sure no pushrod was in there before I bought one. Was surprised to see, that while the bolt hole had been included in the casting for my block, the hole was deadended. I will try the grease method to hold rod in place, rather than drilling out the hole. What is the easiest way to determine the rod is in its upper or innermost position, before I bolt in my new pump?
I have read about that method and planned on trying it. Pulled the sealoff plate on my new ZZ to make sure no pushrod was in there before I bought one. Was surprised to see, that while the bolt hole had been included in the casting for my block, the hole was deadended. I will try the grease method to hold rod in place, rather than drilling out the hole. What is the easiest way to determine the rod is in its upper or innermost position, before I bolt in my new pump?
02-12-2009, 06:51 PM
#7
Instructor
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If I remeber correctly...the rod is all the way up/in, you'll be able to install the pump, if the rod isn't up/in all the way you'll never even get the pump totally flush with the mounting surface because the plunger in the pump will hit the rod and prevent the surfaces from being flush. If you are at TDC it shouldn't be on the lobe.
02-12-2009, 07:15 PM
#8
Pro
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Interesting that the bolt hole was not going through. If I recall properly there are actually 2 threaded holes in that approximate location - correct? - did you possibly get the wrong hole (sorry - didn't mean for that to come out sounding the wrong way). I know that my '68 sbc block has two holes in that approx. area but now can't recall for sure on the ZZ383 block. I swear that's how I did it on my ZZ383 block - 3 yrs. ago. If not, then the grease method would prbly. work well to hold the rod still for long enough so that you push it all the way up in there and then quickly slap on the pump and hold in place while you thread the bolts. I like to use that ultra-black rtv sealant (big fan of that stuff) on both sides of that gasket and it keeps it in place very nicely while your fiddling with the pump.
Last edited by WillEE; 02-12-2009 at 07:17 PM.
02-12-2009, 07:25 PM
#9
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Oh ya - to answer your other queston - I've done this about 10 times myself and have never been concerned with engine being at TDC or anywhere in between. As the lobe spins around it pushes the rod which allows the the pump lever to operate in/out thus creating the pumping action. So if the lobe happens to be at the rotational point where it's going to push the rod it's no biggee - you just take up that slight lever-action pressure as your tightening the pump down into place. It's the same pressure that will be happening when it's all assembled so I have never rationalized this to be an issue when installing.
