baxsom

So i decided to go HEI. I just wanted to make sure I am wiring this thing right. On my stock points distributer the #1 plug wire is right by the window where you adjust the points at. its right at the 2ish position.

On the HEI is the #1 in the same spot. With the new HEI sitting square there are two wires up front and i was wondering if the right one (facing engine) is the #1 plug wire.

thanks.

some install pics would be nice showing the #1 on your guy's HEI conversions.

(picture, thousand words things)

temvette72

You can make any terminal on the distributor your number one plug wire. It's called "clocking" the distributor. If it is a tach drive unit, orient the distributor to put minimum strain on the cable. If you set the motor at TDC for the number one cylinder, then wherever the rotor is pointing is the number one wire. That will get you in the ballpark for engine start, then adjust advance as needed. There is a good sticky on setting timing.

On my HEI (tach drive in a 72), the number one wire is at about 1 oclock. That is with "12 oclock" being toward the carb. The multi-plug with the power wire is at about 11 oclock, and the tach drive cable makes a straight shot to the screw in connector at the base of the distributor.

Temvette72

baxsom

sounds good, i set the #1 piston on TDC before removing the old distributer.
i put my finger in the spark plug hole and then bumped the starter until my finger got blew out of the hole. the 0 line on the balancer is even with the 0 line on the timing tab and the rotor of the old tiny stock distributer was facing #1.

please forgive this crude drawing but is this where the recommended #1 for HEI caps are or should I move every place 1 to the right. since the #1 piston is at tdc i guess it shouldnt matter as long as i set the rotor to point at a terminal but i want to make it easy.

CheezMoe

There is indeed a standard way to wire an HEI. When I did my conversion I purchased HEI wires to fit a 75 to run under exhaust like the factory wire routing. They are cut to length expecting use this Cap layout

Check in the photo below. With the distributor aligned properly oriented with the it facing "Square" to the rear of the carb and viewed from the front, #1 is wired to the front right post, and #8 to the front left post. If you align your firing with this orientation the factory length wires fit to length and the TAC and VA all line up as well.



Hope this helps.

baxsom

looks like my drawing is correct then
cool

noonie

Looks like you have it wired for a points dist.

2 reasons for wiring it the oem way,
as mentioned the prefab wires will fit properly and secondly there will be enough swing room for the vacuum cannister when you time it.

Ganey

Exactly & further notice there is limited room for the vac. adv. can. to the intake & limited room to the Dist. cover brackets behind.

CheezMoe

This is exactly how I wired mine as shown in the picture I posted.

baxsom

well crap,
i guess my drawing IS off after all. i wired it the way i have it drawn and it did fire up and run but when i got the timing right, that explains why the tach cable was really really hard to get on i suppose.
looks like i get to redo it.

Derrick Reynolds

I'm not sure I understand where you are on this. Your picture looks like you have the #1 and #2 wires toward the front of the engine. In Dosoctave's and Noonie's pictures, they have #1 and #8 toward the front of the engine. If this is what you are now changing, then, no worries, I just don't think your picture jives with the other two.

1nicecorvette

The above picture that shows the cap. The letters "hei" are the front of the car with 1 and 8 plug wires to the right and left of it repectively

baxsom

i dont know,
mine is wired like the points distributer that came out of it.
it runs smooth. all the wires fit. i have it timed like it is supposed to be.
the picture given by dosoctaves has the #1 plug wire on the right side of the engine if you are looking back at it.
mine has the #1 wire on the left wired like points.

any issues with it the way it is now or should i fix it?

larrywalk

Follow Noonie's and dosoctaves' guidance - it is correct. Although you can make it run like you indicated in your drawing, the plug wire routing will be awkward.

baxsom

finally got it right,

plug wires were tight before but went in,
once i figured out exactly what i was looking at and got it set correctly, now they fit great.

coil sits square and tach cable is not kinked.

amazingly though without touching the carb the engine idles a lot smoother. granted it was the original distributer that came out so i am sure it has seen better days.

CheezMoe

Well Done! My old points unit was worn out as well but the improvement in performance and gas mileage with the HEI is significant, at least to me. I am going to rebuild the original points unit and keep it around, but doubt I will put it back in the car anytime soon.

mandingo214

I just purchased a '74 BB, and the tach drive is shot. So I figured I might as well put in an HEI.

A few questions my searches did not find answers for:

1) Has anyone used the Dragon Fire ($119 ebay) on a '74 BB? The listing says the shield may no longer fit, but how is it for clearance with the stock air cleaner, etc.?

2) To get TDC, assuming the balancer is correct, bumping the starter until the old rotor is at the #1 post and the timing mark is on 0 should be TDC?

3) Is there a way to use the stock distributor wire by removing the resistor?

4) Any recommendations of plug wires? I would like them to look as close to stock as possible.

Thanks.

CheezMoe

I have a 73 SB but as far as I know the dist shield and air cleaner are the same for all 73 and 74's. I don't have any clearance issue with either, however I do have a Holley on a Ebrock performer so your actual air cleaner height may well be different than mine. See pic below.

Your TDC procedure is good.

The stock feed wire to the factory coil is a resistor wire. I ran a new wire thru the firewall and connected directly from the fused IGN source to the HEI coil.

I used Accel wires so and they are yellow with orange boots...so they don't look stock.

Hope this helps

mandingo214

Thank you. That is one clean engine compartment. Something to aspire to.

It is probably just as easy to run a new wire. Did you remove both of the old wires, or just cap the ends?

One other question, there has been lots of threads debating changing the plug gaps to .045 when converting to HEI. Did you change yours, and do you think it really makes a difference? 99% of the time I am just cruising.

Thanks.

jackson

A few years back I got 2 sets of accel wires off fleabay. The set I'm holding back as a spare is p/n 5050K ... K=black, B=blue, Y=yellow, R=red. I've been real happy with them. I paid about $25/set delivered back them; surely they're more now. The other set passes my "been on for a long time & then pull em off & then reinstall test" without any damage/separation.

FYI
5050K for sbc HEI wires under manifolds. 8mm gloss black wires w/ mute yellow print lettering, black boots, full-completely terminated. They have a fine stainless steel Spiral Core. Box reads "Accel Super Stock Spiral Core Custom Fit Performance Wire Set Made in USA 8mm 5050K"

CheezMoe

I kept my gap at .035 with no issues. Most conspiracy minded folks (like myself ) believe the increased GAP was only implemented for emissions purposes.