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75 Vacuum Diagram

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Old 06-18-2009, 12:25 PM
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75BrownC3
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Default 75 Vacuum Diagram

During the restoration period of this car, I ran into a problem with the fuel line leaking. I took it in to a shop to have them replace the fuel lines since they were really rusted and also had them replace the rear spring, differential cover and mounting support because it was rusted out pretty bad.

During this process, I got the car back from them and it started to run like crap. I thought I had some dirt in the fuel pump so I changed it. That wasn't the problem so I had my son install an Edelbrock carberator and it still ran like crap. It ended up being the fuel lines being pinched closed by the support straps when the gas tank was reinstalled.

The car still ran pretty rough and the headlights wouldn't go back down either. I figured the Edelbrock wasn't creating enough vacuum for the headlights so I decided to put back on the QuadraJet that came off the car when it ran good. The only problem now is I can not for the life of me remember where all the vacuum lines go in the carberator. I think I have most of them in the right spot but there are a couple of them that doesn't have a vacuum hose attached and I can not figure out what goes there.

I have looked all over for a diagram for all the vacuum line connections to and from the carberator but I can't find one. I was wondering if anyone has a diagram for the 75. I have found one for the 74 which is different than the 75 because of the smog crap that is on the car.

Thanks for your help.
Old 06-18-2009, 09:36 PM
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Phil Zell
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If you buy an assembly manual for a 75 it should be in there.

Good Luck
Old 06-18-2009, 10:10 PM
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75BrownC3
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I did but they have stuff scattered all over that manual. The diagrams they do have are not very good at all and is difficult at best to trace. If someone can take a picture of the engine compartment with everything connected up as original, that would help out alot. I think it would need to be on a 75 or later model. The 74 is kind of close but not close enough.
Old 06-19-2009, 12:25 PM
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I think I have some shots of mine before I did my motor transplant, if nobody chimes in by the time I get home I'll post them. I assume you still have the EGR valve etc. in place?

Bill
Old 06-19-2009, 06:46 PM
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75BrownC3
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Thanks Topgun.....it still has the EGR vavle.
Old 06-19-2009, 07:43 PM
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Here you go:













This valve is usually the culprit if your headlights pop up when the engine is shut off but it might be causing your problem also. Might also have a vacuum leak somewhere, that could be why your having problems with the motor running rough. Might try unhooking the vacuum lines from everything and see if it runs better. Holler if you need more stuff.


Last edited by TopGunn; 06-19-2009 at 08:01 PM.
Old 06-19-2009, 08:37 PM
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Where is the air pump and valve.
Old 06-19-2009, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie
Where is the air pump and valve.
Oh well, almost everything was there
Old 06-22-2009, 11:38 AM
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75BrownC3
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Thanks for the pictures. Those are going to really help. I have been busy with other activities all weekend so I am going to try and get on this today sometime. I'll let you know how it all turns out.
Old 06-23-2009, 09:28 AM
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There was enough there for me to get everything connected. I also put on a new carbertaor gasket. The old gasket was really thin and the new one is much thicker. I put it all back together and now it runs the best it has in a long time. The exhaust is still a bit rich but I think it might be from the old carberator that I took off and hasn't all burned off yet. I am going to run it like this for a little while then change out the plugs and wires. Now on to the seats and steering wheel and I'll be done for now.
Old 06-23-2009, 10:59 AM
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Good news. Glad to hear you got it ironed out. Jim Shea is the steering wheel expert and has made lost of posts on here. If you're looking for info in something, do a search and the answer might already be there.
Old 12-20-2023, 02:37 PM
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Default 75 engine vacum line routing

Originally Posted by 75BrownC3
I did but they have stuff scattered all over that manual. The diagrams they do have are not very good at all and is difficult at best to trace. If someone can take a picture of the engine compartment with everything connected up as original, that would help out alot. I think it would need to be on a 75 or later model. The 74 is kind of close but not close enough.
IF you find a diagram or clear pic please pass it along.
Old 12-20-2023, 02:40 PM
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Doubt if either of them are still around after 14 years.
Old 12-20-2023, 08:54 PM
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I'm still ere but my engine compartment is not stock any longer. What exactly do you need, I might have some old pictures
Old 12-21-2023, 09:38 AM
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75BrownC3
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Originally Posted by bonesbrakr
Doubt if either of them are still around after 14 years.
I am still here......I haven't really ran the Corvette in a long time. I just haven't had time to do anything to it. Now that I am retired and bought a 4 post lift, I can get back on it. I need to replace either brake lines or the rubber lines at each wheel. I have a soft petal when it sits for a while. I also need to A/C compressor replaced but it is hard to find someone to swap it out. I already have the new compressor. I also need to get the tilt lock replaced since it is broken. I am going to remove the steering column to do this since it will be much easier than working on it in the car. Other than that, it still runs and runs good for a L48.
Old 12-21-2023, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 75BrownC3
I am still here......I haven't really ran the Corvette in a long time. I just haven't had time to do anything to it. Now that I am retired and bought a 4 post lift, I can get back on it. I need to replace either brake lines or the rubber lines at each wheel. I have a soft petal when it sits for a while. I also need to A/C compressor replaced but it is hard to find someone to swap it out. I already have the new compressor. I also need to get the tilt lock replaced since it is broken. I am going to remove the steering column to do this since it will be much easier than working on it in the car. Other than that, it still runs and runs good for a L48.
Could also be a bad master cyl regarding the brake issue, you can buy a rebuild kit for them or just replace it and replacing those rubber hoses would be a good idea especially if they're original. I replaced the brake lines on mine just because. I bought them from Ecklers pre-bent. Some were a little challenging getting them in place but it's doable. If your A/C system is still pressurized and assuming it still has the R12 in it you'd want to find someone to pump it down and save the refrigerant then refill it when you replace the compressor. I assume you probably know all this anyway but that's what I did with mine. You can find R12 on the internet usually.
Old 12-23-2023, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TopGunn
Could also be a bad master cyl regarding the brake issue, you can buy a rebuild kit for them or just replace it and replacing those rubber hoses would be a good idea especially if they're original. I replaced the brake lines on mine just because. I bought them from Ecklers pre-bent. Some were a little challenging getting them in place but it's doable. If your A/C system is still pressurized and assuming it still has the R12 in it you'd want to find someone to pump it down and save the refrigerant then refill it when you replace the compressor. I assume you probably know all this anyway but that's what I did with mine. You can find R12 on the internet usually.
Thanks for the information. Most everything is original except for a few miscellaneous items like water pump, starter, alternator, paint, front and rear bumpers etc. I live in a small town so not sure if I can get someone to save the R12.

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