kunkle

Discovered my original '71 distributor was set to give 34 degrees total advance at a measly 1400 rpm. Trying to get all advance not in until 2500 to 2800, but the Mr.Gasket springs Lars recommends make it even worse. So I'm guessing the weights need to be changed- don't have any extra different sizes.

Anyone know what weights and springs will give the right combo? Thanks.

FB007

You shouldn't GUESS on a distributor. Have it rebuilt/recurved correctly.

TimAT

If you don't have a dial back timing light or a distributor machine to set it up correctly, the risk of too much advance and getting into detonation is very high. A good round of detonation can break some expensive parts. This is not a good place for guessing. Even educated guesses.

73StreetRace

MOROSO, ACCEL, MSD sell good advance curve kits for Delco Remy distributors :

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...0weights&dds=1

The one I bought many years ago was a complete kit with adjustable vacuum advance can from CRANE.
But I don't think it still exists...

Don't forget you still need a timing light to set it correctly...

7T1vette

You are removing [and plugging off] the vacuum advance vacuum line, aren't you? For your distributor to be performing as you describe, the flyweights would have to be about twice the size of stock pieces. I doubt that's the case.

73StreetRace

Yes, I don't think that even with the weakest springs of any kit, you can get full advance before 1800 RPM...
With the stock centrifugal springs of your 71 distributor, you shoudn't reach it before 5000 RPM at least.
GM was quite conservative with the engines

kunkle

Vacuum line is plugged when I'm checking it.

kunkle

Got an adjustable light. With a 40 yr old dizzy, who knows what weights are in it. Shop tuned the engine when this dizzy was in the old 350. They put an adjustable can on it, and bumped the initial timing to 14 degrees where I had it set to 8. Don't know what they may have done with the weights. When I got the car back, it would surge and buck a liltte at light throttle/cruise- and still does it with the new engine. They didn't give much of an explanation-now read where too much vacuum advance will cause the above. Been turing it back with no effect so far. Now I'm thinking all the timing coming in by 1500 should cause the same symptoms and worse. Makes me think they screwed up the dizzy more than the vac can needing cut back.

Thanks for the info.

kunkle

I've tried the heaviest springs I can find, and even used the smaller weights from an HEI (that moved it up to about 2000rpm until full advance. Starting to wonder if something is wrong with the distributor itself but don't know what that would be.

It looked like the weights were in there correct to start with. The big ends are pointed counterclockwise like in my manual. What would happen if they were reversed?

Just for grins though, which way should the little pointy ends go ? Clockwise or counter?

Alan 71

Hi K,
The pointy ends of the weights DO point clockwise, looking down at the top of the distributor.
Sorry I can't help with your real questions.
Regards,
Alan

kunkle

Wondering now if I shouldn't just get a new distributor. Nothing original about the rest of the engine now anyway. Realizing I'm getting spark scatter after some more reading. It goes away and gets real solid after the timing is all in. MSD Streetfire HEI looks good for the money? Any suggestions for a good street distributor without breaking the bank?

kunkle

Thanks. At least I know for sure now and eliminate one possibility.

MelWff

Have you used the weights that came with the spring kit? Did the kit come with a round brass bushing that acts as an advance stop and did you install it?

kunkle

So far only changed springs- didn't get a whole kit. Weights look new like the machine shop replaced them a few years ago- look the same as in the kits for what it's worth.

Smaller, lighter weights from an HEI kit moved the total advance up to only about 2000rpm.

7t3shark

The spark scatter might be caused by worn bushings which can be replaced.

73StreetRace

As your distributor seems to have more than one single problem,
this could be a good investment and an easy fix, if you can afford it :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8362/

Just check if the cap terminals are of the good type for your existing spark plug wires.
I don't think it will be much more expensive than having the old one rebuilt & recurved, and it will be NEW with a warranty...

Peterbuilt

I agree, put a dwell meter on the distributor and see if it holds steady at 30* as the rpm increases. If not you have worn bushings or the gap between the gear and the distributor housing is more than .060 and has to be shimmed, PG.

kunkle

It has a Pertronix kit in it- won't that make the dwell irrelevant? Or can it still be done?

kunkle

Shoot. The terminals are different. I've got the kind that push into the hole and not over the post like the MSD. I was actually eyeing that same distributor. Don't suppose my wires will still fit/push over the posts? Would it be possible to put different ends on my wires if I take the old one off carefully?

73StreetRace

Depends on what kind of wires you have. Some have boots which are really hard to change ( molded ) without damaging anything...

If you think you can change them easily, have a look at this, you should find something that will suit your purpose :

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...%20boots&dds=1

This stuff seems good to me :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MO...0/?image=large