dburgjohn

had a pan leak so I got a felpro one piece gasket. About the same time I saw a chrome pan at Summit for $30, so why not. I can not get it to stop leaking. The felpro said no sealer. Should I just put the original pan back with a new gasket or re-install the chrome with a good layer of black RV on both sides of the gasket?

MotorHead

Doesn't surprise me a $30 chrome pan leaks. I would re-paint the original pan I don't think you will get the chrome one to stop leaking.

On another note, many valve cover, distributor, rear intake leaks have been blamed on the oil pan only to find out a new pan doesn't solve the problem.

Invest in an oil detection kit ( $30 ) to find out if it is in fact the oil pan that is leaking

...Roger...

What the heck is an oil detection kit,obviously for detecting oil leaks but how does it work ?
Is it anything like using flour to find the u know on a heavy girl ?

TimAT

The oil detection kit is an additive you pour in, run the engine and look for traces with a UV light and some color goggles. (Beer Goggles will NOT work, BTW) The light makes the additive glow and you can see exactly where the leak is coming from.

Back to the original question- chrome is so slick that most gaskets won't "bite" and will seep. Take some 180 grit sandpaper and rough up the rails on the pan- go lengthwise, don't go across. I've seen this happen on trans pans too.

dburgjohn

I had the original off to change a timing chain and gear. I bought the regular 4 piece type and had a leak at the front (could see it). I got the 1 piece to seal better, that's when I saw the pan. I know only $30, but it was Summit and their stuff has always been good to me.

I guess which ever pan I use I need to spring for a fresh gasket?

TimAT

Yep. Gaskets are pretty much a one time shot. 1 piece or 4 piece, use a good shot of RTV at the corners. I usually put a thin coat of RTV on both sides of the front and rear pan seals too, but I've never used a 1 piece gasket either.

HABIT

Not sure if this applys to you or not . . .
Full Synthetic oil can cause headaches with older engine seals . I've seen a couple buddy's do EXTENSIVE unneeded work only to find out it it was the FULL SYNTHETIC oil they thought would be better for their engine.

In your case its probably the chrome pan. As stated above, roughen it up and give it a try.

HABIT

dburgjohn

I use Havoline 10w-30 oil on all my vehicles.

Ok, so new gasket, coat of RV sealant on both sides. Sandpaper on flat edge of chrome pan if i reuse it. Now if I can just decide reuse or now. The chrome looks good with all the other chrome, but oil tight is more important.

TimAT

I think Fel-Pro recommends NOT to use RTV on the pan rails- read their instructions to be sure. I have not used a 1 piece, but the 4 piece I stick the end seals up with RTV, then a few spots of 3M weatherstrip adhesive to stick the pan rails up, followed by a dot of RTV where the sides and ends meet.

FB007

Throw it in the trash. They are stamped wrong. POS from Taiwan.

Tom1701

Clean, paint and use the original

LL&P
Tom1701

gordie1465

toss it as far as you can , save the money buy some beer instead and save the headaches.

TPI BOY

larryg3

John, i am not sure if this applies to the oil pan but i am sure it does. I read a post where someone had leaks form a chrome trans pan. the solution was to remove the pan and sand off the chrome finish or rough it up so that the gasket can grab on to something to seal.

Good luck BTW the engine bay is looking nice.

69Vett

I had to pull a motor because I put a cheap Chrome oil pan on it.
Trust me it ain't worth the hassle, get a Decent Oil pan.
The cheap Chrome will peel off that in no - time. 69VETT

dburgjohn

does anyone have a chrome pan that does not leak?

yellow 72

yes

dburgjohn

Ok, my bad, question not worded right.

If anyone has a chrome pan that does not leak, can you tell me the brand?

MotorHead

Still not right, should be "anyone has a chrome pan that does not leak, can you tell me the brand and if you paid $30 for it"

7T1vette

Your problem is that the pan rail sealing surface is TOO SMOOTH. The gasket can't get any 'bite' into the pan surface. Remove the pan, Put a 100-150 grit piece of sandpaper on a block and scuff up the sealing surface of the pan. Work it all directions...not just one way. It should seal just fine. Don't use any sealant with it.

P.S. If you've overtorqued the pan bolts in an effort to get it to seal, you may have to re-flatten the rail again. Also, do not apply more torque than specified in the Chevy specs.