C 3 door glass adjustment coupe
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
C 3 door glass adjustment coupe
My door glasses will not adjust out at the top no matter what I do. They will not clear the rear weatherstrips at the rear as the glass goes up. They bind into the rubber strips. Thought maybe something wrong with the rubber strips but they are smooth and reasonably soft and new. Run the glass up and shut the door and the window motor will not run the glass down--glass is in a bind at the top from pressure of closing. I replaced all the guides in the tracks--new regulators--motors seem to work pretty well. It almost appears as if the front guide (runner) is too long on the shaft and it pushes the glass out at the bottom which would pitch the glass in at the top as it comes up but it is new so I don't know if anyone else has experienced a similar problem????
Any help from someone?
Any help from someone?
#2
Have you checked your door hinges? Try lifting the bottom of the door, with the door open? Does it move up?
If it moves, it will cause glass gap problems on the upper "B" pillar area.
I would check this first. You might obly need to replace the door bushings.
Good Luck
If it moves, it will cause glass gap problems on the upper "B" pillar area.
I would check this first. You might obly need to replace the door bushings.
Good Luck
#3
Team Owner
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Hi Rio,
Adjusting the door glass is involved because it can be moved in so many directions... in/out, top and bottom, up/down, tilt front/rear. It sounds to me like the 'stops' in the tracks need to be adjusted.
Perhaps someone can give you some guidance. Otherwise there is a page in the AIM that gives the procedure. Do you have the AIM for your car? It's really worth the money!
Regards,
Alan
Adjusting the door glass is involved because it can be moved in so many directions... in/out, top and bottom, up/down, tilt front/rear. It sounds to me like the 'stops' in the tracks need to be adjusted.
Perhaps someone can give you some guidance. Otherwise there is a page in the AIM that gives the procedure. Do you have the AIM for your car? It's really worth the money!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 10-17-2009 at 10:46 AM.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
glasses
Alan, I have an assembly manual. This thing has me stumped right now.
Last edited by RIO68; 10-17-2009 at 05:15 PM. Reason: spelling
#8
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I seem to be having the same problem and I replaced the front roller that runs in the guide too. I had the same thought wondering if the shaft was too long on that roller, (it's the front roller that mounts through a hole in the glass). I thought maybe the runner was bent maybe from an earlier accident but I remember I did not have this problem before replacing that roller. I will make one more attempt to adjust the glass before looking closer at that roller, it will be my third attempt and I've followed all of the instructions on glass adjustment. The only other thing I am going to check is to see if I need to add shims behing the door hinges to move the door out flush with the outside of the front bumper.
I also have new hinge pins and bushings. The rear of the door lines up properly with the rear quarter panel of the car so I know it is not sagging.
I also have new hinge pins and bushings. The rear of the door lines up properly with the rear quarter panel of the car so I know it is not sagging.
Last edited by Tom's 79; 10-17-2009 at 08:36 PM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
door glass
I know, if the shaft were shorter it would have to pull the glass in and that would throw the top of the glass out. When I look down in the door it just looks as if the frt of the glass is just to far out from the runner. ???????
#10
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You got me curious now. Maybe in the next few days I can pull the door panels again and compare the driver's side to the pass side. I only have the new roller on one side so I can see if there is a difference. I'll measure how far the glass is off the runner on both sides. A little difference at the bottom of the glass could mean 1-2" difference at the top. Right now I'm struggling with T-Top weatherstripping. The stripping seems too small to go around the top and the pin holes don't seem to be lining up. On the package it says you may have to stretch the stripping to get it to fit and may have to drill new holes for the pins. More fun!
Last edited by Tom's 79; 10-18-2009 at 11:38 AM.
#11
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OK, I just pulled both door glasses out of the doors and looked at the rollers. One door has the stock, (I'm assuming), roller and the other has an aftermarket roller that I had installed not too long ago. I measured both from the roller to the glass and they are the same give or take 1/16" which I don't think would make that much difference. Not sure where to go from here. Guess I will start from square one making sure the doors are aligned absolutley right. I did come across an article that looks pretty good, I'm going to read it and maybe it covers something I haven't covered before. Let me know if you find anything on your end.
Here's a link to the article:
http://corvette.sharktooth.org/misc/glass.html
Here's a link to the article:
http://corvette.sharktooth.org/misc/glass.html
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Pulled mine and it looks ok also. My left one is close but the rh side is junk. I found out that if I pulled the inner door frame out it helped the pitch of the glass out which is what I need. Problem is you don't know where enough is vs too much. I have new weatherstrip at the rear and that could be causing the majority of the problem. The material is soft and not pitted in any way in fact it is very smooth but the back of the glass diggs in as it reaches about 2/3 the way up and that stops it. When I roll the glass up and shut the door the tension on the glass is so great the motor will not pull the glass down. It just will pull the LH side down. The link is a good article but I've done all of what it says.
Anyone had trouble with the rear weatherstrip keeping the glasses from fitting?
These glasses are tuff!
Anyone had trouble with the rear weatherstrip keeping the glasses from fitting?
These glasses are tuff!
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
door glass
Got two front door glass guides that are from vintage parts and are NOS and didn't fix it completely but helped. Seems this is a process of a little at a time. Every little bit helps I guess. Still no answers on the rear weatherstrip causes any door glass adj issues??
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
glass adj
Just an update on door glasses. Replaced my rear glass weatherstrip with CRC rubber and my glasses will adjust and fit. Some discussion on the forum about weatherstrip and that was my problem. My weatherstrip was so hard and thick the glass was binding up and would not go up like it should. So I guess word to the wise--check out some of the stuff that is around-some just doesn't seem to work correctly.
#15
Lowering or raising glass stops?
I am still tring to find a solution in having access to the RH Sport mirror mounting nuts.
I saw an write up online for the top of the door weather strip removal. It said to lower the glass stops to have access to the screws and clips.
What bolts are used to lower the glass stops? How is it done?
I saw an write up online for the top of the door weather strip removal. It said to lower the glass stops to have access to the screws and clips.
What bolts are used to lower the glass stops? How is it done?
#17
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
In the past I've had doors that for no matter what reason would not adjust. Hinge pins would be new, all the proper alignment procedures followed and still it just would not line up.
When doing your adjustments, remember the upper run has to be pulled in to make the top of the glass go out. You should also know that when adjusted properly you should be able to roll the glass down 1" from the top and be 1" from the pillar weatherstrip.
On other problem that we see often is the front pillar weatherstrip retainer. Sometimes these retainers are bent and will rock when installed. The retainers must be flat and sit flat when the weatherstrip is installed. If the screws by a previous installation were drawn too tight then they will usually bend the retainers inward and create a rock.
There is another way to do this and it may/may not work.
Did you ever see the suction cups for holding glass. If you install a pair of these on the outside of the window, take everything loose on the door and then have someone on the outside holding the glass while you are inside tightening the bolts. It has worked in the past.
Normally I used the assembly manual instructions as posted above. We actually have them in a link for everyone to download if they don't have the AIM. 9 times out of 10 it will work great, but it's that one time where there has been something in the door wrong and/or something just is not right. Then we try it with the suction cups.
Here is a pdf version you can down load on the instructions if you need it. http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=102
Imho,
Willcox
When doing your adjustments, remember the upper run has to be pulled in to make the top of the glass go out. You should also know that when adjusted properly you should be able to roll the glass down 1" from the top and be 1" from the pillar weatherstrip.
On other problem that we see often is the front pillar weatherstrip retainer. Sometimes these retainers are bent and will rock when installed. The retainers must be flat and sit flat when the weatherstrip is installed. If the screws by a previous installation were drawn too tight then they will usually bend the retainers inward and create a rock.
There is another way to do this and it may/may not work.
Did you ever see the suction cups for holding glass. If you install a pair of these on the outside of the window, take everything loose on the door and then have someone on the outside holding the glass while you are inside tightening the bolts. It has worked in the past.
Normally I used the assembly manual instructions as posted above. We actually have them in a link for everyone to download if they don't have the AIM. 9 times out of 10 it will work great, but it's that one time where there has been something in the door wrong and/or something just is not right. Then we try it with the suction cups.
Here is a pdf version you can down load on the instructions if you need it. http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=102
Imho,
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 11-22-2009 at 05:34 PM.
#18
Instructor
I feel your pain big time RIO. I rebuilt both power window operating assemblies and installed new weatherstripping in my 75 convertible. Getting the glass to fit has been the biggest PITA in the entire restoration. I spent everyday for two weeks and finally got the driverside to fit halfway decent. Moved to the passenger side and again started with the AIM instructions and all other instructions and now one week later, still no fit except for the one I will throw if I continue. I'm now taking a break from the project, before I start throwing things, and watching this thread for an epifany. Good luck to us all !!
Larry
Larry
#20
Instructor
Most things on these cars are easy, I can't even try to imagine doing on a C-5 or C-6 what I've done on this C-3
Hang In !
Larry