dart vs china block
10-30-2009, 04:10 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
dart vs china block
Dart liitle - M block
nickel content .0149, Molydenum .0211, copper 0.404
Dart SHP block
nickel content .071, molybdenum .016, copper .0283
Chinese block
nickel content .005, molybdenum .005, copper .020
brinell test using rockwell B scale
dart Little-M = 200
Dart SHP = 190
chinese = 107
nickel content .0149, Molydenum .0211, copper 0.404
Dart SHP block
nickel content .071, molybdenum .016, copper .0283
Chinese block
nickel content .005, molybdenum .005, copper .020
brinell test using rockwell B scale
dart Little-M = 200
Dart SHP = 190
chinese = 107
10-30-2009, 05:24 PM
#2
Drifting
Dart liitle - M block
nickel content .0149, Molydenum .0211, copper 0.404
Dart SHP block
nickel content .071, molybdenum .016, copper .0283
Chinese block
nickel content .005, molybdenum .005, copper .020
brinell test using rockwell B scale
dart Little-M = 200
Dart SHP = 190
chinese = 107
nickel content .0149, Molydenum .0211, copper 0.404
Dart SHP block
nickel content .071, molybdenum .016, copper .0283
Chinese block
nickel content .005, molybdenum .005, copper .020
brinell test using rockwell B scale
dart Little-M = 200
Dart SHP = 190
chinese = 107
Chinese block
nickel content .005, molybdenum .005, copper .020
nickel content .005, molybdenum .005, copper .020
If you look back at the numbers I posted on speedtalk on the nickel and molybdium its less then .005
The block I have is extremely soft
10-30-2009, 05:42 PM
#3
Drifting
10-30-2009, 06:31 PM
#4
Race Director
Like I have said before they are experts at making things than look good and you can't tell there is anything wrong by eye. It's what you can't see that makes them dangerous.
But when a harmonic balancer explodes at 7000RPM it's not a pretty sight
But when a harmonic balancer explodes at 7000RPM it's not a pretty sight
10-30-2009, 07:57 PM
#5
Team Owner
The real expense in the manufacturing of hard-working parts is in the processing and the machining. If you don't harden a metal part, you save on processing costs; plus, the metal is still soft and easy to machine (to look good). You can't see close tolerance dimensions with the naked eye, but you can be sure that the critical differences are there. If the part you are buying is metal and has to withstand significant levels of stress during its life, spend the extra money. A cheap part is only a good deal if it works properly for a lo-o-o-ng time.
10-30-2009, 09:02 PM
#6
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2001
Location: North Easton Mass
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A lot of the Chinese factories can make parts using supplied molds but they don't understand the processing needed (metalurgy) to make the parts correctly. Unfortunately we find this out when a piston exits the hood at 6,000 RPM.
Rick B.
Rick B.
10-31-2009, 01:28 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
HA! American customer, test parts for us, we learn from their grief, and build better Bombs/Rifles to use on them later. We FOOL STUPID Americans, we win in the end! World SHP block for ME!
10-31-2009, 02:40 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
material just the machining is done here.
10-31-2009, 03:23 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Everyone is enjoying some lower costs on things now but in the end
(15 to 20 yrs tops) it will bite them in the butt big time with economy's with constant higher unemployment.
Last edited by Little Mouse; 10-31-2009 at 03:40 AM.
10-31-2009, 08:15 AM
#12
Drifting
10-31-2009, 09:01 AM
#13
Team Owner
The fact that parts are made in China/Mexico is not the problem. The part quality is dependent upon the materials used and how they are processed and machined. Some [good] companies specify the correct materials, processing and accurate machining and they get it...because they pay for what they are getting (and the parts cost more to assure that). But there are greedy aftermarket vendors that only care about making more profit--they couldn't care less that we are buying 'junk'--so they let the foreign manufacturers make it any way they want...cheap, cheap, cheap. You just have to be careful in your choices on 'working' hard-parts. Don't buy any low-dollar 'working' parts!!!
10-31-2009, 11:49 AM
#15
Melting Slicks
How much does the Chineese block cost and how much does it weigh? I would think the hardness would only matter that much when it comes to cylinder wear. Harder metal is more prone to cracking.
Most C3ers do not put that many miles on their car anyway so the cylinder wear will probably not be an issue.
How is the machining?
Most C3ers do not put that many miles on their car anyway so the cylinder wear will probably not be an issue.
How is the machining?
10-31-2009, 02:21 PM
#16
Drifting
How much does the Chineese block cost and how much does it weigh? I would think the hardness would only matter that much when it comes to cylinder wear. Harder metal is more prone to cracking.
Most C3ers do not put that many miles on their car anyway so the cylinder wear will probably not be an issue.
How is the machining?
Most C3ers do not put that many miles on their car anyway so the cylinder wear will probably not be an issue.
How is the machining?
With no nickel and no Molybdium the blocks are soft and will wear out fast in the cylinders and lifters bores and also no strenth.
Here is a link on the probing out of the chinese block.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...er=asc&start=0
Here is the link on the first findings on the chinese blocks.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...er=asc&start=0
10-31-2009, 11:15 PM
#17
Advanced
Member Since: Oct 2009
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Cheap aluminum (low nickel content) is still aluminum and a very strong soft metal in general. All the wear and tear will take place on metal skirts or on bearings. The lifters might be a worry, Do you plan on putting 100k on it?.
If the specs were that far out I would say their quality control sucks and now you will have to go over every square inch of that block at a machine shop costing you more money just to have the peace of mind. In the end I think you will still do ok as long as you’re not trying to build a 900 HP engine less the fogger system. Aluminum will surprise you at how durable it really is.
If the specs were that far out I would say their quality control sucks and now you will have to go over every square inch of that block at a machine shop costing you more money just to have the peace of mind. In the end I think you will still do ok as long as you’re not trying to build a 900 HP engine less the fogger system. Aluminum will surprise you at how durable it really is.
11-01-2009, 12:49 AM
#18
Le Mans Master
Cheap aluminum (low nickel content) is still aluminum and a very strong soft metal in general. All the wear and tear will take place on metal skirts or on bearings. The lifters might be a worry, Do you plan on putting 100k on it?.
If the specs were that far out I would say their quality control sucks and now you will have to go over every square inch of that block at a machine shop costing you more money just to have the peace of mind. In the end I think you will still do ok as long as you’re not trying to build a 900 HP engine less the fogger system. Aluminum will surprise you at how durable it really is.
If the specs were that far out I would say their quality control sucks and now you will have to go over every square inch of that block at a machine shop costing you more money just to have the peace of mind. In the end I think you will still do ok as long as you’re not trying to build a 900 HP engine less the fogger system. Aluminum will surprise you at how durable it really is.
11-01-2009, 12:52 AM
#19
Race Director
11-01-2009, 08:31 AM
#20
Drifting
