Finja

My rear body mounts are rusted out. Do I have to take the body off the car to replace them or can I just lift the body a little?


Any suggestions would help....thanks

mapman

You MAY get lucky and be able to loosen the mounts (bolts) and lift the body just enough to replace the mounts- that WAS my plan.

You should be prepared for what happened to me - I ran into problems with the #3 passenger's side cage nut rusted solid and had to hacksaw the bolt. PLUS the #4 bracket (welded to the frame) was rusted out on both sides. It looked FINE from the outside but once you removed the rubber the "bolt hole" was nearly as wide as the bracket.

Good luck, but be prepared for the worse. (Prepare to lift the body - actually not that difficult.)

MN80Vette

PM me with your email address. I will send you the files I collected or assembled from other CF threads, including the links to those old threads.

I have a set of mounts I've been meaning to install but just haven't gotten to that project yet.

champs65

I was able to do my COUPES #4s with the body on, but having been there I don't recommend it, and probably wouldn't do it again. Convertible, maybe.

With the #4s unbolted and #3 mounts loosened, I used a section of 2x4 and a floor jack to lift the rear of the body behind the storage compartments. Bumpers were already off the car. It did NOT want to lift that way, but it barely gave me enough room to tap/position the replacement body mounts in place with a hammer.

Alan 71

Hi Finja,
There is quite a long list of things that must be loosened or unbolted to lift the body even a very little bit. It's not just sitting there being held on by those 8 bolts.
I'd be prepared for a pretty serious job, as the other posters have said. I think RUSTY fasteners will be your biggest obstacle.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Finja

I am expecting this to be a pretty bad job and to take a while. Thanks for all of the help!

pepegriffo

Hi, I did a complete rework of the mounts and brackets. The body can be lifted about 2 1/2 to 3" Which will allow you to replace the mounts. I actually replaced the #1 and #4 brackets.

I will get info I have, you can compare to other info you may receive.

Pepe Griffo

Finja

Thanks a bunch!!!

plumma

Finja. I just completed this task on my 1976Early L48. I looked up on several sites a very detailed procedure and took most of it onboard. I will try as briefly as I can explain what i did.
I have a two(2) post hoist but decided to do the job on a concrete floor. I jacked up the car and put it on two jackstands with wheels about 4 inches above ground. Removed both wheels on that side. Removed all but one of the four rear bumper bolts and left the last one loose. Removed what was left of No.4.mount,removed No.3,No.2,and No.1 mount. Weeks previously I saturated all mounting points with Penatrol, WD40 etc as I was paranoid about breaking off No.2 captive nut?? As it turned out some bolts twisted off. These bolts I was able to drift out. Hitting with drift helps breaks up the rust that builds up around the bolt and spacer. The rust on the spacer causes the original rubbers to push out into the mounting points. I then set up a floor jack with a timber frame to enable me to lift the body. I didnt relieve any bolts, steering column of front bumper hardware forward of No.1. mount. When jacking I packed the lifting point to be a higher lift at No.4 mount than No.1.Mount. I stress that I only lifted in small amounts and paid particular attention to anything that might get caught up in the lifting process. If you can imagine a wedge shape?? Pointed end at front of car, with widest part at No4 mount? I only lifted the minimum amount that was necessary to remove No.1.mount. I was very lucky as both No.2 mounting bolts came away with no problems. No.2 mount is best worked on before you proceed to No.1.I then cleaned the chassis mounting points, treated same etc. The mounting hole in No.4.mounts (both sides) had rusted/worn out from 1 1/8 inch to about 2 inch. As I only had about 1-1 1/2 inch clearance at this point I frabricated two(2) plates from 3/16 flat mild steel. Bored a 1 1/8 inch hole in same and welded in under No.4 mount which had previously been cleaned with die grinder with burr tip. Treated No.4. mount then proceed with assembly of new poly mounts and bolts (Ecklers).
I purposely did the job over two(2) days. One side each day. I did the drivers side first, because of the steering column??? which wasnt a problem.The passengers side was a breeze the next day.
It appears to be a major job but if you plan ahead and dont rush and dont try to do it in one day, you wont have any problems.
Even if No2 mount capitive nut happened to part from mounting point, a 7/16 inch nut stitch welded to a bit of rod could be bent to position nut below mounting point to accept bolt.
Also the washers supplied with poly mounts, are best glued with contact adhesive to the poly mounts. This enables washer and mount to be positioned as a unit. It is hard enough with such a tight area to position the mount let alone position mount and washer???>
Trusting this if of assistance,. If you have any questions, please contact me.

Regards

Plumma(Downunder)
P.S. Upon assembly of No.4.mount instead of introducing the bolt from underneath up into the captive nut, I removed the captive nut and put bolts down from inside cabin. I put a machine washer under the bolt to spread the load. I also replaced both No.4. mounts at this time. Both of mine were very sad with all and sundry over 33 years being flicked up by the rear wheels. The old ones came out easy. Any rivits that were still intach I cut off with a sharpened wood chisel. I then push the rivit bodies left in the glass thru into the cabin with a 3/16 drift. Upon assembly I found it difficult if not impossible to get the two(2) inboard rivits from under the car. I decided to install these rivits from inside the cab. I put 3/16 inch stainless steel washers under these for strength. The other rivits could be installed from under car. With the single rivit on the mounting tag (facing the rear), as the inners guard covers this tag almost completly-I drilled a new hole thru the inner guard then thru the single hole tap then into the fibreglass body of the car. If you make a few reference lines on the new mounting you can hit the hole in the tag no problems??? No.4.Mounts and poly mounting s and bolts(Ecklers).

Happy new Year.

Plumma

Michel B

You got a lot of good experienced responses and I don't want to confuse you with mine,, but every project will be different,),, I did all mine with body on lifting one side at a time. All my pics are posted and available on photobucket, do a surch with *Mbandet*.

speedsk899

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