Racer11

Any engine guys for this question,,,,,

I have a new engine build with a roller cam installed and a high Vol and pressure oil pump.

Do I install flow restrictors or do I use restrictors and drill them out to about .100 tho. or do I just not use any restrictors.

I get different answers on this question,,,,I dont want to flood the rockers with oil and the valve stems with oil,,and I want the roller's to get the oil they need.

What do I do ??

DRIVESHAFT

Do not run restrictors.
You need plenty of oil at the lifters as well as the rockers and springs.

Mastr Fab

gkull

I use restrictors and drilled them out to about .100 or .110 tho. I also drilled and tapped the cam valley and installed the vent tubes. I also have the cam valley splash plate. My 8 quart road racing pan has the crank stripper.

I do not use or recommend the high volume or pressure pumps. I have the non bypass set up and oil filters in both my solid roller motors. I use the oil weight to adjust my max pressure. I end up with 30 psi at idle which climbs to 70+ by 5000 rpm hot around 200 degrees F

both of my motors use Crane ultra pro solid roller lifters and good springs set to about 200# closed and mid 500 open. I use .685/.714 lift on my 434 small block. Both my 383 and 434 spin to my rev limiter set at 7500 rpm.

I have not built a stock small block without drilled out oil restrictors in many years.

I am pro aftermarket blocks like the Dart which solve the oiling problems by having priority oil feed to the mains.

Racer11

Thanks guys,,,,

I will leave them out and plug the ends.

MotorHead

I credit the 20,000 miles I got from a set of non direct needle bearing oiling first generation Comp Cams solid roller lifters ( no oil holes ) to the drilled out .080" oil restrictors in my 550HP 406ci. The theory was to keep more oil down in the centre of the motor as the rollers on the lifters relied on oil from splash / windage

I don't have them in my new 427ci with the new lifters which have a oil pressure hole direct to the needle bearings, I did have to seal up the valve covers good and there was oil dripping from them.

In hindsight I probably should have run them at .100"

TheSkunkWorks

You just don't need high pressure oil pumps on properly built Chevy V8's. As long as you have a minimum of ~10psi per 1000 RPM, hot, you're fine. And, that doesn't mean you need 70# at idle if you're going to redline at 7000 RPM. Excessive pressure only wastes power, increases wear, puts additional heat in the oil, and increases filter bypass (if applicable).

Racer11

TheSkunkWorks::


Well,,,,,I still have easy access to changing the oil pump ,,,,, and rid myself of the High volume/pressure pump.

Stock pump===such as a melling M55 ??

No restrictors???

Would that be a better way to go, eliminating the power waste, and wear, and hotter oil.

Note:
I have run the engine on a test stand with out restrictors and the HV/pressure pump,,,and the valve train was flooded in oil,,,to the point that I think oil was getting by the valve seals, I found some wetness from oil in the exhaust ports.

forvicjr

Restrictors and vents on a solid roller.Still didnt get the 20,000 miles Motorhead got but close,I tend to drive the shet out of mine though.Got the speeding tickets to prove it!!!

EDIT: I also agree no high volume pump unless you have an extended capacity pan,and its still not needed. On your pump purchase buy the MELLING SELECT pump. Melling is the main manufacture for GM. GM necked the regular m55 down at the mounting bolt and they will break and end up sitting in your pan. The SELECT pumps didnt get this modification. my0.02

Racer11

forvicjr:

I do have a 7 qt pan,,,,,,To request the melling "select" oil pump,,,,is that all I just ask for?? Some of the guys/gals at the O'riley counter dont have a lot of exerience,,,is why I ask.

Thanks

forvicjr

Its the "speed part" version not the stock replacement the m 55 is. Your not going to get it @ o riellys or adv/autozone. You best bet is the Napa auto or equivelant, we have carquest and napa here. If no luck there summit has them im most positive. Its not in the standart red white and blue box as the m55 is,its in a black box with melling performance and 'select" in large lettering...VIC..

forvicjr

As for as the high volume thing, Im prob going to get flamed for this,any way im guilty of heavy over kill on chevy oiling no matter of the cost of HP. Ive got an engine now that has a moroso billet pump in it,this thing cranks out 110 lbs of oil pressure cold on startup at 1050RPM idle, then once warmed up runs 60 at idle and by seven grand its back to 90 again.The motor would prob make more power with the oiling tamed,but its a security blanket for me for some reason. These pressures were created with .0025 to .0028 rod clearance,.0025 to .0028 on mains with the exception of the rear main which is .003.

TheSkunkWorks

forvicjr, no flames here, but given the overall picture (HP aside) I do find it hard to consider excessive pressures as being insurance. In any event, perhaps a thinner oil might be in order.

forvicjr

Im currently running 10/40 castrol. Dont want to drop the weight down, Guess I got a oil pressure OCD

MotorHead

There is a good pump that I have run in most of my mild to semi wild motors which is known as the Z28 pump about 10 % more than stock, just has a stiffer spring in it.

Now back a while there seemed to be some controversy as to the castings of these pumps and their durability and they came out with the SELECT line which were 2x as expensive and supposed to be a better pump.

Now I see they are using the same name ( Select ) on the cheaper ones like the Z28 pump I used to buy. So as usual the marketing boy and girls are playing with the minds of us stupid car guys that don't know any thing

Anyway I ended up paying more for a SELECT pump that supplies 10% more pressure, I am happy with it Melling 10552

http://www.jegs.com/i/Melling/689/10552/10002/-1

forvicjr

They might have reversed the new design due to breakage. Ill have to take a look to see if the old style hes changed back to the thicker casting. Might save myself some money.

MotorHead

They may have done that who knows. I bought mine two years ago to be on the safe side I bought the more expensive one

Racer11

After my last post I googled Melling and got their tec phone number and called them.. The tec asked a few questions and suggested I get the 10553 select pump. I called Star Performance in Lenexa Ks (they are like summit but a lot smaller) and I had my girlfriend go by after work and pick it up,,,it is a black box like you describe.

I got it out and looked at it and it is a cool pump,,,beefy and the shaft spins so freely compared to the pumps I normally use, I was shocked.

I will put that pump in and plug the oil galley's. Hopefully I will be ok with my oil recipe,,,BTW I will use Mobil 1 after the engine gets broke in, and my break in dino oil will be Valvoline VR1. If I need or feel I need higher pressure I will up the oil wt.

Not sure about my filter yet, but I have narrowed it down to Wix or purolator Pure One filter.

Should I be ok ?? Thanks

forvicjr

I normally run K&N filter,as the rest burst with my cold oil pressures if i try to drive it before completely warming up (110lbs cold. Yes this happened once.) Steer clear of the fram HP series filters, had several people lose engines on account of them.Though Fram could have fixed this by now I donno. Be sure to plug your bypass as this will assure 100% oil filtration.As for wix dont see a problem with them...VIC...

Dont know what cam your running,but if its flat tappet make sure whatever oil you break in with is slap full of the zinc and phosforus content. Vr1 is now pulling these goodies out of there oil here,I would get a bottle of GM EOS break in additive. If you need a part number I can get it.

forvicjr

I also run my engine a guart high on breakin to aid in oil toss on the cam if its a flat tapet cam.But Im Im sure your dyno guy will take care of ya. Some people have different opinions on this Im sure but its worked for me.