kaiserbud

UPDATE 2010_9-06
I had problems with this wiring scenario, and switched to another starter/set-up. However, I do believe this set-up can work with the addition of a diode wire or a relay.

...Roger... posted on another thread that:
I think the yellow is going to apply unrestricted 12v to the coil on cranking but when you release the key the white/red/plaid resistor wire power is feeding down the yellow wire into the starter windings. Thats why I think you need a diode on the yellow. If you attach the yellow to the purple the same thing will happen,the power will be fed into the solenoid windings.

MySixtyNine posted this link with good input in the same thread.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10038/10002/-1

Good luck....
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....having trouble wiring up my starter, as it has 2 large posts and only one small post to attach wires. Can ya'll guide me?

Here is what I have:
Red Wire - (Old BAT terminal) connects w/Larg Battery Wire @ ????
Purple Wire - (Old SOL terminal) connects to ????
Yellow Wire - (Old IGN terminal) connect to small post????
Black Wire - connects to mounting bolt for ground

How did you route/secure your large batter cable. It seems I may have to take slack up to the rear of the car (towards the battery) as I have about 2" extra at the motor area.

I heard I need a jumper wire for some applications, but have heard many many different scenarios.

It is for my 1969 BB Coupe and I have a new LectricLimited Harness and I bought an Ultima Starter #03-0485 (UPC: 769754873178) from O'Reilley's Auto Parts.

Posts View
Angle View
Side View

bluthundr

I believe it should be wired like this



Red - Power from alternator - goes to the "in" side of the solenoid with the large battery cable

Purple - Power from the "START" part of the key, goes on the small terminal of the starter solenoid

Yellow - power to the coil so it is energized while starting - goes on the "out" side of the solenoid along with the big power cable to the starter

Black - Ground for blower motor - goes on the grounding post

kaiserbud

Thanks - well the blower motor has its own ground. Also the yellow wire has a small connector (like the purple one) - so it would not fit on the terminal suggested. Last - the black ground wire goes to the outer mounting bolt on the starter itself.

Here is where I am at:

HamadUP

Do you still have the stock ignition system? if so then you need a relay to send a 12 V power to the coil via the yellow wire while starting only. If you have a HEI or MSD (or anything like MSD) then you can just omit the yellow wire.

kaiserbud

yes - all is stock..... can you offer more detailed info? Electrical items are not my strong point

airtime

your large battery power wire goes the large bolt on the selinoid.
the purple wire is the ignition wire that turns the starter on. don't remember the color of the other wire but it will go from the starter to your coil to suppy 12 volts to the coil during starting. after that it is dead and your coil will get a reduce voltage from the fuse box. i cain't show you because i use an external ford starting selinoid on my car. also there is awire from the altinator on my set up. since your car has an original voltage regulator yours maybe different, mine comes from the voltage meter i think

noonie

If you are still using a points dist, the the way bluthundr drew it is correct. You can solder another bigger eyelet on the yellow wire or just to the terminal already on it if you wish not to alter your new harness (can be unsoldered later). The yellow will only be hot when the starter spins.

The small black wire I usually put on a bellhousing bolt or in one of the holes in the back of the right head, just to be out of the way from uninformed hands.

airtime

with your current set up, bluthunder has the only way to get it right. the yellow will only be hot during starting which is what you want.

kaiserbud

Just quit in the garage for the day - long day but some progress.....

Thanks... So no relay is necessary then...or is that possibly another way of solving the connection? ....so the Yellow terminal (Large Inboard) is indeed the IGN terminal? And the Purple terminal (Small terminal) is the SOL terminal.

btw - nice pic BueT !

oh - can I instead connect the black negative to the bolt mount?

oh - oh..... (PS PS) I do have s stock GM dual point distributor

noonie

Don't forget to mount the rear starter brace to the block and you can run the small ground to that.

kaiserbud

Thanks - well I have read on the CF that the forward brace is not required. But I had bought one a few years ago (Ecklers A5894) and would like it on there. I tried to install it yesterday - but it appeared 1/2 short. With the wiring concern, I held off on that effort (and the GM heat shield).

So - is the other version of wiring (with jumper/relay) is that viable as well? Do I need to consider that one?

If I do get that forward brace installed - then I am able to wire it as BlueT indicated - which also coincides with the AIM layout. !!!!

kaiserbud

...... got the arc welder out - ready to put a larger connector on the yelllow wire..... If your lights dim.... pray .... for both of us.

bluthundr

.. I hope by arc welder you mean soldering iron. The eyelet on the yellow is just too small because the stock starter had a post for that purpose off the solenoid and the starter you have now does not. Electrically though wiring the way in my pic will do the same thing.

kaiserbud

Hey BT.... yeah - just kiddin.... again - thanks to all. Just electrical is not my bag....

OK _ here is the status (if I can bore you all).. maybe not for the electrically inclined - but for the guys like me that head down this same road.

Anyway - I took some pics to show a few things - some good and some bad.

MODIFYING THE OEM YELLOW CONNECTOR:
I connected wires as suggested. Rather than replace the yellow wire connector, I spread the existing OEM U shaped connector as shown below and I do feel it will work well. By nesting it underneath the Ultima wire going from solenoid to starter, it gave a nice large flat surface to hold it down.

Adjustment to OEM Yellow Wire Connector
Adjusted Yellow Wire Connector over Stud
Full Connection of Wires to Ultima Starter

OVERTIGTENED CONNECTION
I overtightened the nut for the positive connections. Dang. I removed the wires and put 2 washers on as spacers to get to good threads. I did you dielectric grease on connections. (In between washers, etc). Ha - notice the one washer has a hole lsightly off center!

Stripped Positive Stud
Re-Done Connection over Stripped Positive Stud Close-up
Re-Done Connection over Stripped Positive Stud Overall View

Forward Brace Issue
The forward brace is not the right length. Somehow I am thinking that even the old OEM starter had a black cylindrical extension on the front of it. Although that would help in the horizontal direction, it appears to be deficient in the vertical. I do realize (after seeing my pics) that I can move the brace slightly up.

Deficency in Brace - View 1
Deficency in Brace - View 2

Theiskell

Do a search on wiring a mini starter. There should be a lot of good help there.

airtime

i used the ford relay when i redone my electricial system. i do not like having power to the starter all the time. my mini starter selinoid failed and mine would start on it's on and i could not stop it without unhooking the battery. did it several times with the motor running. i used a heavy 8 guage jumper wire from the large main power terminal on the starter and connected it to the small starter terminal. then i put the prple wire to the small terminal on the ford relay and ran the positive battery wire to the relay and ran another large wire from the relay to the large starter terminal (where the main power used to connect). this way the starter has no power unless the relay is active. the relay has an extra small terminal on it that you put the 12 volts coil cranking wire on. i do all my old cars this way. my set up has a wire coming from the volt meter that goes to the battery side of the relay to charge the battery. not sure where your's would be located at. i used 2 guage wire on all the new battery leads. i reused the original battery power wire as a ground and grounded it to the starter mounting bolt. so now i have 2 grounds coming off the battery post. all this is way over kill.

airtime

that brace is most likely for a full size starter and not a mini.

HamadUP

I have the same starter (off a 2K truck) and I'm not using the brace, it simply dont need it.

airtime

not using mine either. i have a mini.