Starter problem 71 vette
03-22-2010, 11:58 AM
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Starter problem 71 vette
Hey guys, first post so bear with me on the length.
Just had the motor rebuilt and put it back in and it started and ran just fine. Problem: After the 3rd start, the starter would not stop spinning and any attempt to shut the car off with the key was futile. The coil wire was pulled to shut the car down, and then the battery was disconnected to shut the starter off.
Little history with the wiring. Obviously I didn't pay attention to the disconnection of the wires but it should be a no brainer. Still running points so I have 4 wires at the solenoid. The problem there is, both the smaller wires are red (no yellow or purple) but different gauge wires. I connected the larger gauge wire to the "S" terminal and the smaller to the "R".
On to the coil, I didn't disconnect it so I'm guessing here, I have 4 wires again going to the coil. 1 from the distributor to the "+", the wire from the "R" on the solenoid to "-". The other 2 do not match to the color codes again. 1 is a small resistor mounted on the coil bracket (looks similar to a points resistor), I guessed at that one and put it on the "+" side. The other is coming out of the firewall and going to one side of a block shaped resistor, and the wire coming from other side I have going to the "-" side of the coil.
Now, when I hook the battery up, the starter spins all by itself (But does not engage) and if I turn the key to start, the starter still doesn't engage and start the car.
I tried reversing the 2 resistor wires at the coil with same problem. I even reversed the 2 wires at the starter with again no change. SO now everything is back to the way it was when the car 1st started. What did I hook up wrong and fry?
Thanks,
Dave
Just had the motor rebuilt and put it back in and it started and ran just fine. Problem: After the 3rd start, the starter would not stop spinning and any attempt to shut the car off with the key was futile. The coil wire was pulled to shut the car down, and then the battery was disconnected to shut the starter off.
Little history with the wiring. Obviously I didn't pay attention to the disconnection of the wires but it should be a no brainer. Still running points so I have 4 wires at the solenoid. The problem there is, both the smaller wires are red (no yellow or purple) but different gauge wires. I connected the larger gauge wire to the "S" terminal and the smaller to the "R".
On to the coil, I didn't disconnect it so I'm guessing here, I have 4 wires again going to the coil. 1 from the distributor to the "+", the wire from the "R" on the solenoid to "-". The other 2 do not match to the color codes again. 1 is a small resistor mounted on the coil bracket (looks similar to a points resistor), I guessed at that one and put it on the "+" side. The other is coming out of the firewall and going to one side of a block shaped resistor, and the wire coming from other side I have going to the "-" side of the coil.
Now, when I hook the battery up, the starter spins all by itself (But does not engage) and if I turn the key to start, the starter still doesn't engage and start the car.
I tried reversing the 2 resistor wires at the coil with same problem. I even reversed the 2 wires at the starter with again no change. SO now everything is back to the way it was when the car 1st started. What did I hook up wrong and fry?
Thanks,
Dave
03-22-2010, 04:13 PM
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No replies?
I guess I should have put wiring problems in the title line instead of the same old starter problems. I might actually get a response. Come on guys, I need some help here, I'm at a loss.
03-22-2010, 04:20 PM
#3
I cannt answer all your questions but the distributor is connected to the "-" side of the coil. Normally the "+" side of the coil has a 2 wire connector, one is of them is a resistor wire and the other is not. The non-resistor wire is energized when cranking only. The resistor on the coil bracket may be a replacement for the normal wire resistor but you mention a second resistor for some unknow purpose.
03-22-2010, 04:28 PM
#4
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C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Did I read this right, the car started twice with no problems?
Then you must have it wired correctly, just a guess but I would check to see if the soleniod just went bad.
Then you must have it wired correctly, just a guess but I would check to see if the soleniod just went bad.
03-22-2010, 05:09 PM
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Update
Am I bad, first off let me be the 1st to say I'm an idiot. I found problem #1. I had the small black ground wire attached to the bat cable at the solenoid. How it ran I don't know but I disconnected it and grounded it and now the starter/ign switch works as it should. The problem now is the car starts on cranking but dies when I let go of the key. So know I have wires crossed somewhere. The wiring diagraham I have shows the distributor wire to "Pos" on the coil which is where I have it, and the "R" wire to "NEG" side. Are you sure on the dist to neg? Which side of the coil has power when running? Is it the same side as cranking?
Dave
Dave
03-22-2010, 05:16 PM
#6
As I stated the distributor wire goes to "-". The "+" has power when running and it grounds through the points which are connected to the "-" side. Someone else recently had the same issue with some diagram that erroneously showed the distributor going to "+"
03-22-2010, 05:52 PM
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Fried coil
Ok, I just swapped the dist. wire over to the neg side of the coil and gave her a crank. Smoke came out the top of the coil and I now have no spark at all coming out of the coil. I have 3 different wiring diagram sources and all of them show the dist wire going to the NEG side of the coil. Obviously the coil is fried but I still need to find the correct way to wire it. If someone can tell me where the wires are coming from that go on the coil it would be appreciated. No colors pls because mine don't match the diagrams. Heres what I had when the car was running.
1: Distributor wire to POS on coil.
2: Small wire, "R" on solenoid to NEG side of coil.
3: Small resistor mounted on back of coil to POS on coil. ( a guess)
4: wire coming from firewall into resistor (Looks like one of those old chysler resistors) then the output wire from that to NEG side of coil. (another guess)
I'm totally lost now.
1: Distributor wire to POS on coil.
2: Small wire, "R" on solenoid to NEG side of coil.
3: Small resistor mounted on back of coil to POS on coil. ( a guess)
4: wire coming from firewall into resistor (Looks like one of those old chysler resistors) then the output wire from that to NEG side of coil. (another guess)
I'm totally lost now.
03-23-2010, 12:48 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
Ok, I just swapped the dist. wire over to the neg side of the coil and gave her a crank. Smoke came out the top of the coil and I now have no spark at all coming out of the coil. I have 3 different wiring diagram sources and all of them show the dist wire going to the NEG side of the coil. Obviously the coil is fried but I still need to find the correct way to wire it. If someone can tell me where the wires are coming from that go on the coil it would be appreciated. No colors pls because mine don't match the diagrams. Heres what I had when the car was running.
1: Distributor wire to POS on coil.
2: Small wire, "R" on solenoid to NEG side of coil.
3: Small resistor mounted on back of coil to POS on coil. ( a guess)
4: wire coming from firewall into resistor (Looks like one of those old chysler resistors) then the output wire from that to NEG side of coil. (another guess)
I'm totally lost now.
1: Distributor wire to POS on coil.
2: Small wire, "R" on solenoid to NEG side of coil.
3: Small resistor mounted on back of coil to POS on coil. ( a guess)
4: wire coming from firewall into resistor (Looks like one of those old chysler resistors) then the output wire from that to NEG side of coil. (another guess)
I'm totally lost now.
The coil needs power so it gets its input on the + terminal. When cranking it gets 12 volts from the R terminal on the solenoid. The 12 volts helps the engine start. After starting the resistor or a resistor wire provides less voltage to save the points. So both the wires in your number 2 and number 4 need to be connected to the + side of the coil.
Your number 1, the wire from the distributor should be connected to the - terminal on the coil.
I'm not positive about your number 3 but I think it is a condenser to reduce static on the radio. The static is caused by the points opening and closing, so I think it goes to the - side of the coil also.
Maybe someone else can confirm this.
03-23-2010, 08:47 AM
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Thanks,
I will pick up a coil today and wire it this way and give an update. I knew I should have replaced the engine wiring harness while the engine was out of the car..
I will pick up a coil today and wire it this way and give an update. I knew I should have replaced the engine wiring harness while the engine was out of the car..
03-23-2010, 10:04 AM
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It lives
Thanks 76 Ray, 1st thing I did was change the points cause I probably fried those. After changing them I found out I had spark, wired it the way you said, it it started. The only thing I did different was leave the small resistor on the back of the coil disconnected until I can figure out for sure what it does. My friend thought it might go to the positive side of the coil. Your description and another I got from a friend at GM were both the same. I have three (count em 3) different wiring diagrams and ALL of them have it wired opposite from the way you guys said to do it. Anyway, thanks again, now to finish adjusting the valves and button up the top so I can figure out why I only have 1/2 a clutch pedal with a new clutch and the adjustment all the way out, BUT thats the subject of another post..
03-23-2010, 08:32 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Thanks 76 Ray, 1st thing I did was change the points cause I probably fried those. After changing them I found out I had spark, wired it the way you said, it it started. The only thing I did different was leave the small resistor on the back of the coil disconnected until I can figure out for sure what it does. My friend thought it might go to the positive side of the coil. Your description and another I got from a friend at GM were both the same. I have three (count em 3) different wiring diagrams and ALL of them have it wired opposite from the way you guys said to do it. Anyway, thanks again, now to finish adjusting the valves and button up the top so I can figure out why I only have 1/2 a clutch pedal with a new clutch and the adjustment all the way out, BUT thats the subject of another post..
