2nspire

Sidepipes. yup. umhum. yup. :yesnod: :yesnod:

bigvette1

Along with sealing off all holes between the firewall and the engine compartment, floor insulation and a water shut off valve, make sure the trans has the insulation cover between the trans and the floor. Also, there are foam collers that go on the top of the bell housing that keep heat from rising.

Frankly, C3's are hot inside. Firbreglass and exhaust pipes near the floor boards don't make for cool running.

rdrman

I had hot feet. I replaced the hood seal,replaced all the vaccum lines,insullated the floor and not much differance. Then I installed ball valves in both lines ...some improvement. Found that the gromenet for the tach cable was askew and the lower shift boot was melted..gone. Big improvment.On the lower shift boot I covered the bottom with foil faced insullation big improvment!Cool feet now. Knock on wood!

Demar

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I've done the shutoff valve in the water line and reflective insulation under carpet and tunnel walls. I appreciate the side pipes suggestions but I went the chambered exhaust route (no cats - just straight chambered).

I am going to do mrvette suggestions and replace the hood seals - I agree, they all run hotter inside than normal and if that was a deterent, we wouldn't be driving vettes!

Koz

Side pipes would be great as long as you don't have to worry about emissions.. Here in the North East ya got to use the cat..

TQ67

Bob,

Vintage Air only makes systems that fit 58-67 only. You could probably hack job a generic system into a C3, but you'd have problems with controls, fit, etc.. I agree with your other suggestions though.

GWHITE75

.TQ67 I just installed a Vintage Air Compac Gen II system in my C-3, have no control problems and it works great. There is a business in Pearland, Texas that has installed the same system in several C-3's successfully. I don't recommend this to Demar, but it is a good replacement system.

TQ67

Bob,

That is good to know. However, I would never have known that by speaking with Vintage Air. They should hire you for a sales position, becasue when I spoke with the guy from Vintage air today and asked about doing it in a C3 he was very discouraging and said it probably would be very tough and require a lot of custom fabrication.

When you get a chance, could you include some specifics and detials on your installation.? I have a 71' that I'd like to consider doing this for....

By the way, how would this compare cost and time-wise to buying all the correct A/C components for your year car and installing like that?

Thanks!

Larry B.

My 69BB (no headers) has ALL of the original heat shields, carpet insulation, and stock A/C ducting. I have NO excessive heat in the cabin with the A/C off. All of the heater/AC doors need to work properly an the seals on them need to be good. :jester

Noel Carboni

Thermotec on the headers and no thermostat so the engine runs very cool. Thermotec also on the pipe section that runs just below the floor pan.

-Noel

Corvettes White

Joe:

Also check the shifter boot. Not the one you can see but the SECOND one underneath. Big hole if it is torn. which may have been the source of the smoke.

George

Carl in LA

Its early in the year but I may have managed the heat problem... You may not like hearing all the things I have done to combat heat but here they are (not necessaraly in order of importance or cost)

ceramic foil backed carpet underlayment analy installed including cutting tiny pieces and gluing them into place around the shifter and even creating washer shaped pieces to keep heat from coming up through the seat bolts...

engine rebuild... the old worn out engine ran hot and made everyting around it hot...

aluminum radiator - again, cooler engine cooler cockpit...

Stewart High flow water pump... same logic

lean jets in the carb... less excess burn in the cylinder and less burn in the exhaust manifold and tail pipe...

ceramic paint on the ram horns and y-pipe and exhaust pipe (very positive results from this)...

switched to smaller high flow cat...

painted cat heat shield with ceramic paint...

painted transmission cavity with ceramic paint to block heat...

painted firewall with ceramic paint...

painted air conditioning plenum (engine side) with ceramic paint...

installed 200 4R overdrive transmission to lower revs while cruising (logic being less revs, less heat generated, less heat felt)

Oh yeah... one other thing... insulated the underside of the rear deck to keep solar heat from building up in the cabin!

I had a really bad experience in Palm Springs a few summers ago that made me insane about killing the heat...

I have not closed off the heater lines but that will be next if I still feel heat.

After that will come an original style transmission heat shield...

The ceramic paint on the manifold and on the air conditioning plenum has an additional positive effect... I turn on the vent/fan and the air that blows through is as cool as outdoor air - no heat build up from engine in plenum.

Of course its still 70-degrees out... the real test will come on those 105 degree days.


[Modified by Carl in LA, 9:43 PM 3/13/2002]

Koz

I pulled out the seats and took out the carpets and there is NO insulation between the carpets and the floor. There was a little padding under the drivers seat but nothing else. Passenger side had a little more.. maybe because the exhaust runs on that side of the car.. Anyway, I'm into it now! I'll be stopping at Homey on the way home to pickup the silver backed insulation. Do I use the spray adhesive to hold down the new insulation? And would you then spray adhesive to hold down the new carpets to the insulation? Zip sells the spray adhesive at $14 a can.. Is this a Homey product too or specialty item worth $14 a can..

Alwyn678

Jett Hott coated headers definently make a difference

Corvettes White

Koz. I glued it all. Thes 3M adhesive from NAPA or most other parts stores.

Kept it all tight.

George

GWHITE75

Remember when installing the insulation, to cut the insulation out behind the gas pedal. Nothing hurts perfomance more than a throttle that doesn't open all the way.

Koz

Got around to heat sheilding the car over the weekend.. This was pretty easy considering what I thought I would be up against. I used the 3M Spray Adhesive 90. The guy at Homey said it wouldn't hold but since eveyone else said it would I'm glad I listened to you guys.. It worked great! Here's a few pictures.. I just ordered my carpets from Willcox. Hope they go in just as easy! Thanks for everyone's help!!! :cheers:

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/insulat01.jpg
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/insulate2.jpg
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/insulate3.jpg
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/insulate4.jpg
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/insulate5.jpg
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/insulate6.jpg
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/insulate7.jpg

tshort

That looks like an ad from the 70's......"New space-age carpet to take you to the moon and back!!!"
I can actually imagine people looking at it back then and saying, "Jeepers, that is unbelievable. We'll be flying around like the Jetson's in the nineties." :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Koz

Someone posted a picture of the shut off valve they used on the heater lines but I can't find it in this thread.. Anyone remember seeing it and what thread was it in? Please repost it.. Also, where is the heater door? The only door I found is on the passenger door side panel that had a vaccumm hose connection for the air conditioning. Do I have to remove the duct work to see if the door is closing all the way?

mrvette

Koz, once you release the control cable, you can flap the door actuator arm back and forth by hand and allmost 'feel' the door sealing....so remember the position of the door in both positions, and make sure it attains both positions when control is set....cable is adjustable....
other than that, if it's not feeling right, you have to remove center cluster and drop the main chute off, to see the door....this is the main plenum for the
a/c ducts...flapper is plainly visible after that....there may be an aluminum housing in there too, I had some weird casting that all it did was interfere with airflow...so I took it out....works fine...got better airflow...my car is a '72....

GENE