Demar

Okay ya'll - who among us has has solved the problem? I've added a shut off valve to the water line, put extra insulation under the carpet, disconncted the blower (which as we know is always on) but still the heat - mostly on the passenger side. I've tried the trick of putting a shop light under the hood/car in a dark garage to see if I could find any obvious firewall gaps/breaks but no luck. I'm open to any and all suggestions.


[Modified by Demar, 6:32 AM 3/13/2002]

Frankenvette

I solved my heat problem. I put the top down :)

Regards,

Jim

thamzid

But not in Arizona when it is 112 Degrees out. But it is a DRY HEAT yea right when it gets over 105 it is D**N HOT.
Later
Ken

mrvette

I have a '72 convetible 'project car' so this winter, after installsing and fixing many other problems, but before putting interior back together...I did the obvious...sealed up the firewall and console, and then from HOme Depot, insulated the firewall with 1/2 inch fiberglass, foil backed, hot water heater wrap....
another thing....seal that silly flapper door under the pass side fender, absoluitey shut, I used my favorite, RTV and a wire to shut mine...disconnected the dash pot entirely...so no 'fresh air' goes throug the vent systems....removed the interior flapper door in the pass kickpanel too....
now there is just recirc air available...that keeps underhood air from entering car through vent system....
everything is insulated now, matting and such reinstalled, and carpets in place...
so I feel it's as good as any other car ever was on that heat barrier/padding/insulation score, I guess I will find out on the first 90f day....wife noticed more than me....those hot feet....

GENE

MassVette

Side pipes help..........
:yesnod: :chevy :chevy :yesnod:

Demar

mrvette - Haven't tried that one - can you guide me a little more? How to access etc?

BTW - I went chambered exhaust instead of sides - less burns on the legs getting in and out!

seal that silly flapper door under the pass side fender, absoluitey shut, I used my favorite, RTV and a wire to shut mine...disconnected the dash pot entirely...so no 'fresh air' goes throug the vent systems....removed the interior flapper door in the pass kickpanel too...

mrvette

Well, I assume you can do your own internal kick panel flapper door, plug the vacuum oline going to it, also....more airflor, less restriction...
the external one is down the wiper trough, down in the fender drip area, on passenger side...you will see a door with a 'spring' type arrangement on it,...
the dash pot...controll vavle is on the opposite side of the door you looking at, so you can't see it...just to the windshield side of that door is 3 screws on the hinge assy....pull those and work the entire assy out of there, on a shark with operating wiper door, which '72 was last year of, the entire door mechanism needs pulled out to access this area....
on a lter shark, it's directly assessible....
I wired my door shut by jamming a screw into it and pulling wire to another convenient screw in the WSW trough....then sealed hell out of it with RTV...
if you want be really secure...then spray with undercoating, I didn't bother...
at any rate that door be shut now....the car is in permanent recirc mode, no outside air to come through a/c-vent-heat system...ever....

GENE

Demar

Thanks for the info - I did the internal on the kick panel but never thought of the other.....sounds like some garage time this afternoon!

73-454

The best solution to heat problems, disconnect the heater hoses, Very few of us need the heater. The cab will be cooler and you will improve the water flow through the Rad.

Scott78

My solution to my hot feet: New hood seal, added some foam edge seal to the plenum door(the one hidden in wiper area)and "adjusting" it so it'd close good. Some body "dum-dum" on all gaps on both the heater box and firewall openings. Ball valves on both heater hoses. Then I fixed the A/C. I haven't had it out yet to see if it fixed it all yet. If anybody can think of something I forgot please speak up.
Scott

mrvette

I keep one vac controlled valve in one leg of heater hoses...I'm thinking of doing other leg too....probably not a bad idea...

but that brings up another question for another thread I"m starting...
engine circulation....

Alwyn678

I would not recommend this however a shut-off valve is a good idea...And Seal up your duct work and get the A/c working :cheers:

Black68Vette

for sure. I noticed a huge difference pre-sidepipe to post sidepipe with no other changes. Plus it helped the whole hot starter syndrome too! But it did require one addition - a better sound system so I could hear it over the pipes :)

Blue68

Replace the weatherstripping around the back of the hood. That will help a lot. I replace mine and could tell a BIG difference in the passenger side footwells.
wayne h.

dman535

I noticed that when I drove my car in the fall when it was cold out that I could feel a draft coming in the car. I assume this is the same air source that is heating me in the summer. It seems to be coming from around the trans tunnel. There is definitely a hole of some sort as I had a huge valve cover leak and I got smoke inside the car with the windows rolled up. Any ideas where to look for that one ?

Budman68

The shut off valve and headers solved mine problems. Knock on Fiberglass....

JCL

Like MassVette,Scott78, and Black68Vette said, "Sidepipes are the way" Not the least expensive way, but the way. JCL :cool: :cool: :chevy


[Modified by JCL, 12:02 PM 3/13/2002]

Biker

Demar, I suggest you disconnect the heater hoses and replace the stock catalytic with a smaller, less heat generating high flow catalytic.

Edzred72

I'm sitting here snickering... cause at the beginning of winter, all the Northern guys were complaining about the snow, salt, and lack of driving time, while the south/southwest guys gloat about the beautiful cruzin weather they have. NOW... It's spring, and the HEAT complaints are starting up with the south/southwest boys, while the northerners are getting their cars out of storage and gloating about the great cruzin climates... Funny, if ya think about it. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

Bob Turner

Demar,

I agree with MassVette- Sidepipes do help enormously. I still need to get the sidepipe insulation which should reflect even more heat.

Other ideas for cooling are- Aftermarket a/c such as VintageAir, reflective aluminum insulation in the trans tunnel/firewall, thick jute padding under the carpeting...etc...

Bob :cheers: