New timing chain, cover, water pump... PICTURES
04-05-2010, 12:19 PM
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Burning Brakes
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New timing chain, cover, water pump... PICTURES
I finally changed some stuff this week-end. The job was easy, except for the timing cover, because I didn't want to remove or even drop a little the oil pan, but I managed to do it even so... 
So, here are the pictures, with a small description :
New parts & tools :
Old harmonic damper removal :
Damper removed :
Water pump & Timing chain cover removed. Good news, I already had a double roller timing chain, probably the last owner's job :
Old sprockets and chain removed :
Numbers written on the cylinder block behind the sprockets are :
Up, on the left : 512 and 532
In the middle : 010, 509, 020
On the right : 015
As far as I know, blocks that have a number 10 or 20 under the timing chain cover have one-percent tin and two-percent nickel.
The tin is used to help the melt flow better into the casting mold.
These blocks are the least prone to cracking.
Also, because they pour more easily, they have the least problems with hot spots caused by porous metal.
They also wear slower than others.
I don't know the significance of the number 509 between the two others...
New timing chain, woodruff key and sprockets installed.
I used the Summit Tool to drive the crankshaft sprocket and it worked great.
You will probably notice the locking plate. I installed it even if it was not necessary with my camshaft :
New timing chain cover installed :
New damper installed. The ugly timing pointer will be replaced later :
New aluminum water pump & pulley installed :
New crankshaft aluminum pulley and adjustable timing pointer installed :
Final pictures :
Just one last thing : Can anyone tell me if I've got the stock L-82 camshaft or not ?
As you can see on the pictures, nothing is written on it, not even a GM or something. So what ?
Last update : I tried it one hour ago : everything seems to be leakproof
, but I only started the engine for a few minutes.
TDC has already been checked with a piston stop. I'll check timing and drive the car on the road next Friday...
So, here are the pictures, with a small description :
New parts & tools :
Old harmonic damper removal :
Damper removed :
Water pump & Timing chain cover removed. Good news, I already had a double roller timing chain, probably the last owner's job :
Old sprockets and chain removed :
Numbers written on the cylinder block behind the sprockets are :
Up, on the left : 512 and 532
In the middle : 010, 509, 020
On the right : 015
As far as I know, blocks that have a number 10 or 20 under the timing chain cover have one-percent tin and two-percent nickel.
The tin is used to help the melt flow better into the casting mold.
These blocks are the least prone to cracking.
Also, because they pour more easily, they have the least problems with hot spots caused by porous metal.
They also wear slower than others.
I don't know the significance of the number 509 between the two others...
New timing chain, woodruff key and sprockets installed.
I used the Summit Tool to drive the crankshaft sprocket and it worked great.
You will probably notice the locking plate. I installed it even if it was not necessary with my camshaft :
New timing chain cover installed :
New damper installed. The ugly timing pointer will be replaced later :
New aluminum water pump & pulley installed :
New crankshaft aluminum pulley and adjustable timing pointer installed :
Final pictures :
Just one last thing : Can anyone tell me if I've got the stock L-82 camshaft or not ?
As you can see on the pictures, nothing is written on it, not even a GM or something. So what ?
Last update : I tried it one hour ago : everything seems to be leakproof
, but I only started the engine for a few minutes.TDC has already been checked with a piston stop. I'll check timing and drive the car on the road next Friday...
Last edited by 73StreetRace; 04-05-2010 at 01:49 PM.
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04-07-2010, 01:11 PM
#5
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Camshaft ID markings and part numbers are normally located on the rear surface of the cam - not visible unless you pull the cam out.
Lars
Lars
04-08-2010, 12:27 PM
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Burning Brakes
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04-12-2010, 12:54 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
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New update !
First thing : No leaks at all ! That's good news !
Second thing : I already had checked TDC and I checked timing this WE with a stroboscopic light, and the timing mark had slightly moved ( timing was advanced by about 2° ).
I think it is a consequence of the old chain and sprockets wear. And now, ignition timing is VERY accurate. I mean the timing mark on the damper is very steady, and not fluctuating by +/- 1° like it did before.
The car runs great, but it already did before, so no noticeable difference... except that the front main seal is now impervious to oil !
First thing : No leaks at all ! That's good news !
Second thing : I already had checked TDC and I checked timing this WE with a stroboscopic light, and the timing mark had slightly moved ( timing was advanced by about 2° ).
I think it is a consequence of the old chain and sprockets wear. And now, ignition timing is VERY accurate. I mean the timing mark on the damper is very steady, and not fluctuating by +/- 1° like it did before.
The car runs great, but it already did before, so no noticeable difference... except that the front main seal is now impervious to oil !
