L48 Rebuild - Finally Parts Check
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
L48 Rebuild - Finally Parts Check
After months of researching and everyone's awesome help on here, I am just about ready to start ordering parts for my rebuild. Currently, I have stock L48 with 2.5" dual exhaust and 3.08 rear end. To it, I will be adding:
Flo-Tek (Speedway) 101505 Aluminum Heads
Summit G6920B 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers
Fel-Pro 1034 or 1010 Head Gaskets (per manufacturer recommendation - seems big, though)
Summit 226008 Dual Plane Intake
Summit G2410 Intake Gasket
Fel-Pro BS118291 Rear Main (while I am at it )
Jegs Block Hugger Headers
As far as the cam, I am torn between two kits:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-206-2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-234-2
I will also be changing out the trans pan/gasket, oil pan/gasket, fuel pump, water pump and timing cover/gasket.
Any final thought? Did I miss anything? Final thoughts on cam choice?
Flo-Tek (Speedway) 101505 Aluminum Heads
Summit G6920B 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers
Fel-Pro 1034 or 1010 Head Gaskets (per manufacturer recommendation - seems big, though)
Summit 226008 Dual Plane Intake
Summit G2410 Intake Gasket
Fel-Pro BS118291 Rear Main (while I am at it )
Jegs Block Hugger Headers
As far as the cam, I am torn between two kits:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-206-2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-234-2
I will also be changing out the trans pan/gasket, oil pan/gasket, fuel pump, water pump and timing cover/gasket.
Any final thought? Did I miss anything? Final thoughts on cam choice?
Last edited by Jartanyon; 01-25-2014 at 08:25 AM.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Good question! The plan is to open up the block first before I buy the upgrades - I want to see what I am working with as far as the pistons and rings go. If they are in bad shape, I will find out what it will run to bore and hot tank the block. I already have an idea on the cost of flat pistons, rings, etc. If things are really bad and the work will cost more than $1500, one of the options is to pick up a new GM base 195hp 4 bolt and add the mods to that.
#4
After months of researching and everyone's awesome help on here, I am just about ready to start ordering parts for my rebuild. Currently, I have stock L48 with 2.5" dual exhaust and 3.08 rear end. To it, I will be adding:
Flo-Tek (Speedway) 101505 Aluminum Heads
Summit G6920B 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers
Fel-Pro 1034 or 1010 Head Gaskets (per manufacturer recommendation - seems big, though)
Summit 226008 Dual Plane Intake
Summit G2410 Intake Gasket
Fel-Pro BS118291 Rear Main (while I am at it )
Jegs Block Hugger Headers
As far as the cam, I am torn between two kits:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-206-2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-234-2
I will also be changing out the trans pan/gasket, oil pan/gasket, fuel pump, water pump and timing cover/gasket.
Any final thought? Did I miss anything? Final thoughts on cam choice?
Flo-Tek (Speedway) 101505 Aluminum Heads
Summit G6920B 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers
Fel-Pro 1034 or 1010 Head Gaskets (per manufacturer recommendation - seems big, though)
Summit 226008 Dual Plane Intake
Summit G2410 Intake Gasket
Fel-Pro BS118291 Rear Main (while I am at it )
Jegs Block Hugger Headers
As far as the cam, I am torn between two kits:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-206-2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-234-2
I will also be changing out the trans pan/gasket, oil pan/gasket, fuel pump, water pump and timing cover/gasket.
Any final thought? Did I miss anything? Final thoughts on cam choice?
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Comes out to about $1300 including a new fuel pump and some other things to freshen up. Take out the rocker arms and drop another $200 from the price. Add in the 4 bolt GM base engine and you are at a very reasonable price for a 4 bolt rebuild with performance upgrades. Dished pistons would be a weak point, though.
Last edited by Jartanyon; 01-25-2014 at 11:47 AM.
#6
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Just hhad my L48 rebuilt with a roller hydraulic setup and Dart heads. The engine builder told me he has taken 2 bolt blocks up to 600 HP without problems, not to worry about at 400 . Just passing this on. What I have read is that while the 4 bolt is marginally better for strength. The 2 bolt is good enough.
I quizzed several of the crate builders and was disap1oined to find out how many of them put used "inspected" parts in their product. Something to check on.
Ray
I quizzed several of the crate builders and was disap1oined to find out how many of them put used "inspected" parts in their product. Something to check on.
Ray
#7
Race Director
Talk to Chris Straub (Strubtech) here on the forum. He has a head that flows better, already set up with the correct springs for whatever cam you choose for similar money. I would go with a 1094 gasket and a comp XE262H cam and lifter set.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...38-2/overview/
Then add new timing set.
These are a better price on rockers and good quality.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet
Before you tear it down do a compression and leakdown test to see where your shortblock is. How many miles?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...38-2/overview/
Then add new timing set.
These are a better price on rockers and good quality.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet
Before you tear it down do a compression and leakdown test to see where your shortblock is. How many miles?
Last edited by 63mako; 01-25-2014 at 02:24 PM.
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks haydenray - sounds like the stock two bolt should be ok.
@ Mako - thanks. I will shoot Chris a pm. I originally had that cam, but changed to a lower power band and lower lift. Will that lift be ok with the heads? I know the Dart and a few others were not. The engine has about 65,000 miles on it...
@ Mako - thanks. I will shoot Chris a pm. I originally had that cam, but changed to a lower power band and lower lift. Will that lift be ok with the heads? I know the Dart and a few others were not. The engine has about 65,000 miles on it...
Last edited by Jartanyon; 01-25-2014 at 02:33 PM.
#9
Race Director
Thanks haydenray - sounds like the stock two bolt should be ok.
@ Mako - thanks. I will shoot Chris a pm. I originally had that cam, but changed to a lower power band and lower lift. Will that lift be ok with the heads? I know the Dart and a few others were not. The engine has about 65,000 miles on it...
@ Mako - thanks. I will shoot Chris a pm. I originally had that cam, but changed to a lower power band and lower lift. Will that lift be ok with the heads? I know the Dart and a few others were not. The engine has about 65,000 miles on it...
#10
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2002
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Don't worry about the 2 bolt mains. I have close to 200 quarter mile runs and 8000 street miles on my original L48 block, now a 383 running 12.1s, with no problems.
I used the Comp xe262 cam and I would recommend that too.
BTW, with the 3.08 rear, you should really think about a higher stall speed converter. Maybe around 2500 rpm.
I used the Comp xe262 cam and I would recommend that too.
BTW, with the 3.08 rear, you should really think about a higher stall speed converter. Maybe around 2500 rpm.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Just out of curiosity, why the XE262 and not the XE256? If the goal is to keep as much low end torque as possible, wont the 300 rpm's make a difference? Also, will the lower power band be better with the stock torque converter?
#12
Race Director
The goal is not to keep as much low end torque as possible. The goal is to optimize your combination of components to produce the best results for your application. Every part selection is a compromise in one form or another. 256 Operating range is lower but the duration and lift will not maximize the power potential of your aftermarket heads. It becomes a restriction of airflow through the engine. You do not want to go too big on a cam but to small is not a good option either. The 268 is largest with the stock convertor. The 262 matches your new compression ratio and will be fine with the stock convertor but a higher than stock stall convertor will run faster 1/4 mile with a 3.08 gear. That is another compromise as a higher stall convertor is less efficient and generates more heat. Make sure you do a performance recurve of your distributor and use a vacuum advance can that matches the cam.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Sorry for the confusion - in my original pm, I had stated I wanted as much low end as possible with the new cam and the XE256 would be a better option for that. However, I completely understand matching for the best optimized outcome with the new heads.
As far as re-curving, will the cam come with those specs?
As far as re-curving, will the cam come with those specs?
Last edited by Jartanyon; 01-26-2014 at 07:33 AM.
#14
Just hhad my L48 rebuilt with a roller hydraulic setup and Dart heads. The engine builder told me he has taken 2 bolt blocks up to 600 HP without problems, not to worry about at 400 . Just passing this on. What I have read is that while the 4 bolt is marginally better for strength. The 2 bolt is good enough.
I quizzed several of the crate builders and was disap1oined to find out how many of them put used "inspected" parts in their product. Something to check on.
Ray
I quizzed several of the crate builders and was disap1oined to find out how many of them put used "inspected" parts in their product. Something to check on.
Ray
"Chevrolet Performance does not utilize any used or remanufactured parts in this crate engine , expect for the starter, alternator and power steering pump" this is for the new ZZ5 350 turn key 19301294. Which crate builders did you querry ?
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
PM answered.
As far as the original Flo-tech heads listed above, I noticed that the springs are rated for up to .550" lift...does that mean I wouldn't need the replacement springs that come with the cam kit also listed above?
Last edited by Jartanyon; 01-27-2014 at 07:46 PM.
#17
Burning Brakes
Refreshed my 76 80K miles L48.Aluminum heads,1094 head gasket,Air Gap intake,Summit carb and a retro hyd roller cam.Motor had good comp before top end and cam change.Retro roller cam is the way to go if you have the funds.The roller is well worth the cost.The ol L48 is like a new motor..The power just builds right off idle.Cam in the motor is a Crane Cams 119821....This was supposed to be a tempo refresh till I had the funds for a Dart SHP 400ci.Since she running so sweet I'm gonna run her till it blows up!
#18
Le Mans Master
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Edit: Also, be advised that the heads you have listed are angle plug heads. Here is a link to the same heads with straight plugs.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...lug,25118.html
In the Q&A section, Speedway recommends the Comp Cams HE268H to go with these heads. The XE262H has a very similar power range, so it should work well, if you take Speedway's word for it. Good luck!!
One thing about these heads is that they have an excellent intake/exhaust ratio, (don't get too exited, I have a feeling it's more due to a poor intake than an excellent exhaust port) which might make you lean toward a straight grind cam.
Scott
Last edited by scottyp99; 01-29-2014 at 04:21 PM.
#19
Race Director
Sorry for the confusion - in my original pm, I had stated I wanted as much low end as possible with the new cam and the XE256 would be a better option for that. However, I completely understand matching for the best optimized outcome with the new heads.
As far as re-curving, will the cam come with those specs?
As far as re-curving, will the cam come with those specs?
Recurving the distributor is best done following the papers that Lars has posted. Contact @ V8FastCars@msn.com. You will also want to match your new vacuum reading with a different vacuum can that Lars also has a paper on. Total cost will be about $25 and the upgrade in throttle response and lower midrange will be dramatic. Shoot him an Email.
#20
Advanced
if you're going with a complete rebuild it makes sense to go with a roller. my 406 is getting the howard's 113215-10 along with afr 195's and 1.5 roller rockers. why worry anymore about zddp.