jleavy

My son and I just purchased an 81 in decent shape. Needs paint and interior work, but is solid underneath and most electricals work fine. Starts and drives fine.
My question is this: at 190 HP stock, its a bit gutless. What is the least expensive way to uncork this engine a bit?
It will need exhaust soon. Suggestions? Are headers worth the money?
Thanks for any and all input!

Chip,
Upstate NY

Attfay Elleybay

Newer heads (vortec), duel exhaust is a noticeable improvement.

MrJlr

Although doing a top end on an old engine can sometimes blow out the bottom...
Exhaust will really help.....

jleavy

I forgot to mention that it only has 37k miles on it. The exhaust I'm replacing is original. What about the smog and detuning done in '81 - is there a good guide to follow for removing/upgrading that?
What are your thoughts on headers? Worth the extra time/effort/leaks?
Thanks.

sniperdiver37

I've done 2 81's now and as you may have noticed 81 is the first year of comp controlled stuff. IMO... yard all that out, all of it (unless you are restoring to stock) it all unplugs and unbolts. replace the distro with a HEI$100, do a performer intake $150, carb $200, headers $100-$200, and any other dress up stuff you may want.
All that smog stuff can come off.... drops about 100 lbs off the car too.

If you have the money get some good heads or just start building a motor on a stand now.

81pilot

Are you sure its not 137K? A 37K car should have a fairly nice interior and working electrical. But to answer your questions, When I bought my 81 last summer it was bone stock except for the cat bypass someone had on it. Now it is way better, quicker, sounds great and a lot of fun. What I did:
1. Added a 2.5 inch true dual exhaust with 18 inch Chambered exhaust resonators. (sounds awesome!) The cat was already gone when I bought it.
2.Long Tube Headers
3. replaced the Carb with a slightly used Qjet from a 79 L82
4. replaced the dist with a new HEI unit.
5. added a B&M lockup controller for the tranny
6. tuned it per Lars Grimsrud's papers(including dist recurve and settings)
7. (actually first) removed all of the smog stuff, pump, EGR, even swapped the water neck(thermostat housing) for a chrome one that has no places for sensor plugs.
8. Added a ton of chrome, new bowtie valve covers and K&N 14 inch open filter. etc...
9. unplugged the computer

Now for the good news, it is night and day better, it is unbeleivable how these are detuned from the factory, it really woke it up. I also picked up a ton of MPG on top of the HP. That may have been from the improperly working computer, that is now gone.

But the grand total, I paid 100 for the headers, 40 for the carb, 35 for the dist. 159 for the Lockup controller, and 50 for the air cleaner. I think the EGR block off plate was 15. The rest is just cosmetic. Be careful about the emission requirements for your area, some require the smog crap to be in place, need not be working, but must be in place, so keep it so if you ever sell, someoneone could add it back on.

KevinK

Also beware of removing the cat. Lots of states are starting to require cats on cars that came with them. So, at best, get a high flow, rather than just getting rid of it all together.



As for me, best bang for buck "mod" you can do is recurve the distributer. They cost about 10 bucks, and it's a difference you can feel.

jleavy

Thanks to all for mod suggestions, especially for the low cost ones, as we're starting out with limited funds. We brought it home last night. Looking forward to cleaning it up, removing the smog crap, dueling the exhaust and upgrading the distributor.

Thanks again! Great website - I'll be in here daily watching for more tips.

81pilot

Some might say that swapping the distributor might not be called upgrading. I think it is better to not have the computer control the advance because I find the computer system is difficult to get running properly, and I know how to tune an engine without one a lot easier. And the reason for the carb swap is because the computer controls the fuel mix as well, it also controls the torque converter lockup.

Spoiler

 

 

HOWEVER

.... there are guys here that know an aweful lot about those computers and swear when propely tuned perform well, so the cheapest route may just be to see if you can get it tuned with the computer. If you still leave the computer hooked up you can still do headers, you will just need to put an oxygen sensor in one side. Also you can leave the computer and remove smog stuff the computer on this model does nothing with them. Just other options....