383 Stroker Build vs Buy Crate
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
383 Stroker Build vs Buy Crate
I've done some searching around the forum to see what others have done in their builds so I decided to try to peice one together myself. After doing so I also looked at crate engines.
Here is what I came up with for the Build
Edelbrock Rollin' Thunder Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
Edelbrock SB-Chevy Performer RPM E-TEC Aluminum Cylinder Heads
Edelbrock NASCAR Edition RPM Air-Gap Manifold Kit (includes Edelbrock Performer Carburetor)
Scat 4340 Forged Crank Balanced Rotating Assembly
Edelbrock Pushrods (long for the Hydro camshaft)
This totals to approx $3150 Plus block machining and my time...
It is the original Block so I would be nice to keep it under the hood.
The Crate engine is from JEGS $4280.99 Fully dressed
Blueprint Engines SB-Chevy Budget Stomper w/Aluminum Heads 383ci/ 420HP/ 450TQ
http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint-Engi...97263/10002/-1
So how does the build sound, I am mechanically inclined just not necissarily mechanically informed. If I get the crate I will just keep it as is, If I do the build I listed the forged innerds so I can possibly add a Turbo a few years later or just to drive it hard now.
I don't want to drag it per-say, but I do want to make some rustangs cry. Of course everything behind it will be upgraded before I really let it loose. Thanks!
Here is what I came up with for the Build
Edelbrock Rollin' Thunder Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
Edelbrock SB-Chevy Performer RPM E-TEC Aluminum Cylinder Heads
Edelbrock NASCAR Edition RPM Air-Gap Manifold Kit (includes Edelbrock Performer Carburetor)
Scat 4340 Forged Crank Balanced Rotating Assembly
Edelbrock Pushrods (long for the Hydro camshaft)
This totals to approx $3150 Plus block machining and my time...
It is the original Block so I would be nice to keep it under the hood.
The Crate engine is from JEGS $4280.99 Fully dressed
Blueprint Engines SB-Chevy Budget Stomper w/Aluminum Heads 383ci/ 420HP/ 450TQ
http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint-Engi...97263/10002/-1
So how does the build sound, I am mechanically inclined just not necissarily mechanically informed. If I get the crate I will just keep it as is, If I do the build I listed the forged innerds so I can possibly add a Turbo a few years later or just to drive it hard now.
I don't want to drag it per-say, but I do want to make some rustangs cry. Of course everything behind it will be upgraded before I really let it loose. Thanks!
#2
Le Mans Master
I asked similar questions in the C4 section a while ago and several guys reported problems with the Scat cranks. I'd stick with an Eagle crank or a GM one. If you're going to wind it hard or turbo it, it needs to be forged, and especially if you turbo/blow it I'd use H-beam rods too.
Compression would be an issue though - if you go turbo it needs to be lower, but if not, you'd want to raise it more.
Probably a good idea to decide how much power you want to get out of it in the long run and then build to suit that.
Also, Summit sells pre-machined block (they're even on sale right now for $589) that are 4 bolt main LT-1 roller blocks. That way you could keep the original engine intact and have fun with the stroker. It is also cheaper since you can use the OEM rollers and spider, etc.
Just some thoughts for you.
Compression would be an issue though - if you go turbo it needs to be lower, but if not, you'd want to raise it more.
Probably a good idea to decide how much power you want to get out of it in the long run and then build to suit that.
Also, Summit sells pre-machined block (they're even on sale right now for $589) that are 4 bolt main LT-1 roller blocks. That way you could keep the original engine intact and have fun with the stroker. It is also cheaper since you can use the OEM rollers and spider, etc.
Just some thoughts for you.
#3
Actually, I have read on other reputable forums that the Eagle cranks are "off", and need to be sent back. I haven't seen that about the Scat stuff. I think it was primarily the forged Eagle cranks. Not to start anything, just what I have seen.......
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input, I'll do a little more research on the cranks. As much as I don't want to lug an extra engine around from place to place as I move where every the Navy takes me, thats not much extra for a basic block to build up... I guess later on I could rebuild the original engine and have it be a museum peice lol Just decorate it real nice with original paints and everything
#5
Le Mans Master
You should be talking with your machinst, Edelbrock takes Mexican built "350 Target" motors, adds a cheap melling camshaft, their heads and intakes to build their crate motors. While GM has good quality control, the iron in those motos is soft, the parts marginal at best for performance work but, they do have a warranty.
The problems is there are good machinists and bad ones out there, you need to be smart enough to chose a good one for a sucessful build.
Crate motor=instant gratification, built motor better quality and will probably blow the doors of the "crate bait" engine. Motorman on this forum has a good shop, S&S automotive in my area is a great shop.
The problems is there are good machinists and bad ones out there, you need to be smart enough to chose a good one for a sucessful build.
Crate motor=instant gratification, built motor better quality and will probably blow the doors of the "crate bait" engine. Motorman on this forum has a good shop, S&S automotive in my area is a great shop.
Last edited by Solid LT1; 06-20-2010 at 03:57 PM.
#6
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2000
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2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
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We just did one of the 400" Dart package engines for a '61 Vette and it was pretty sweet. First it starts with a MUCH improved block over a stocker and uses better internals, is internally balanced etc. You can buy a short block with hypereutectic pistons or move up to forged pistons and crank as well as better rods like we did. We also used the Dart 200cc as cast heads.
With a dual plane Dart intake and a 750 Holley it made 540 HP. With a single plane Weiand and same carb it made 555 HP. This was with untouched heads or intakes...just bolted together what they sent (which is against my normal nature!).
Not the cheapest way to go...but I feel good with it knowing Dart builds it in house vs the other folks who contract it to whoever wins the low bid this week.
JIM
With a dual plane Dart intake and a 750 Holley it made 540 HP. With a single plane Weiand and same carb it made 555 HP. This was with untouched heads or intakes...just bolted together what they sent (which is against my normal nature!).
Not the cheapest way to go...but I feel good with it knowing Dart builds it in house vs the other folks who contract it to whoever wins the low bid this week.
JIM
#7
Le Mans Master
If you've got a numbers-matching block you should seriously consider setting it aside and building something fresh - a lot of the value of your car is tied up in that block.
The Edelbrock crates are built on the ZZn shortblocks - and there's absolutely nothing wrong with them. Late model block castings are outstanding in quality, especially for a production piece. They're not made for a 500+ HP build, but for a basic performance build, they're a great foundation.
I no longer purchase Eagle cranks after sending them back time after time for being out of spec for taper and a few being far enough out of index that they were unusable even for a mild build. Scat's quality, even on their low-end cast cranks, has been consistently good.
IMHO the best bet for a guy that wants to bolt something together at home but maybe isn't quite ready to do it from scratch is to buy a solid shortblock and design from there.
The Edelbrock crates are built on the ZZn shortblocks - and there's absolutely nothing wrong with them. Late model block castings are outstanding in quality, especially for a production piece. They're not made for a 500+ HP build, but for a basic performance build, they're a great foundation.
I no longer purchase Eagle cranks after sending them back time after time for being out of spec for taper and a few being far enough out of index that they were unusable even for a mild build. Scat's quality, even on their low-end cast cranks, has been consistently good.
IMHO the best bet for a guy that wants to bolt something together at home but maybe isn't quite ready to do it from scratch is to buy a solid shortblock and design from there.
#8
Race Director
We just did one of the 400" Dart package engines for a '61 Vette and it was pretty sweet. First it starts with a MUCH improved block over a stocker and uses better internals, is internally balanced etc. You can buy a short block with hypereutectic pistons or move up to forged pistons and crank as well as better rods like we did. We also used the Dart 200cc as cast heads.
With a dual plane Dart intake and a 750 Holley it made 540 HP. With a single plane Weiand and same carb it made 555 HP. This was with untouched heads or intakes...just bolted together what they sent (which is against my normal nature!).
Not the cheapest way to go...but I feel good with it knowing Dart builds it in house vs the other folks who contract it to whoever wins the low bid this week.
JIM
With a dual plane Dart intake and a 750 Holley it made 540 HP. With a single plane Weiand and same carb it made 555 HP. This was with untouched heads or intakes...just bolted together what they sent (which is against my normal nature!).
Not the cheapest way to go...but I feel good with it knowing Dart builds it in house vs the other folks who contract it to whoever wins the low bid this week.
JIM
I wouldn't touch any Eagle stuff, if you are trying to get your oil clearance on the mains to within +- .0005" what's the point in using a crank that isn't straight, even 1 thou is throwing everything off.
The way to go these days is that Dart SHP block and use Callies for the crank and rods, you can use the Compstar stuff at least the cranks are straight or move up to there really good stuff. There's lots of good piston choices but I like the Mahles right now been running them in my 427ci with 0 problems and they don't rattle when cold
#10
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2001
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if about 400hp&tq for under $3K suits you, then ...
+400hp, +400tq, 9.5:1 comp ... under $3000 ... lotsa bang for the buck.
It's Not a 383; it displaces about 355 ci. I have No personal experience with year one CT350PC1 crate, but several folk here reported good results.
http://www.yearone.com/Serverfiles/p...archid=4050854
http://www.yearone.com/yodnn/tech/Te...7/Default.aspx
It's Not a 383; it displaces about 355 ci. I have No personal experience with year one CT350PC1 crate, but several folk here reported good results.
http://www.yearone.com/Serverfiles/p...archid=4050854
http://www.yearone.com/yodnn/tech/Te...7/Default.aspx
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
WOW.... That deal from year one... well as they say it, " It's priced in such a way that you almost don't even need to think if this is a good deal." They dyno and guarantee atleast 400hp plus it has a warrenty. This one will really make me think