CS144 to replace one wire alternator
08-10-2010, 11:11 AM
#1
CS144 to replace one wire alternator
Hello again.
I have another question. I want to replace my low amp alternator with the CS144 alternator because of the addition of the Dewitts electric fans. The previous owner of my car installed a March pulley system which basically swapped the location of my A/C compressor and alternator. My alternator now resides on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I guess in doing this, they got rid of the stock alternator wiring and installed a one wire alternator setup. The alternator is not stock. It's a generic chrome unit and is grossly underpowered when my electric fans kick on. My question is this: How do I wire up the CS144? Is it just as simple as connecting my "one" wire to the BAT terminal on the back of the alternator? More importantly, do I need to add the 35 ohms of resistance to the "one" wire to keep my alternator from burning out?
Here's a pic of my setup. Don't laugh at the tape. That was the other owner's handy work. It will be soldered and shrink wrapped during the alternator swap. The wire on the left is the hot wire going to my horn relay and the wire on the right is the ground for my MSD 6AL box.
Thanks in advance for the help.
I have another question. I want to replace my low amp alternator with the CS144 alternator because of the addition of the Dewitts electric fans. The previous owner of my car installed a March pulley system which basically swapped the location of my A/C compressor and alternator. My alternator now resides on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I guess in doing this, they got rid of the stock alternator wiring and installed a one wire alternator setup. The alternator is not stock. It's a generic chrome unit and is grossly underpowered when my electric fans kick on. My question is this: How do I wire up the CS144? Is it just as simple as connecting my "one" wire to the BAT terminal on the back of the alternator? More importantly, do I need to add the 35 ohms of resistance to the "one" wire to keep my alternator from burning out?
Here's a pic of my setup. Don't laugh at the tape. That was the other owner's handy work. It will be soldered and shrink wrapped during the alternator swap. The wire on the left is the hot wire going to my horn relay and the wire on the right is the ground for my MSD 6AL box.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Last edited by brando1118; 08-10-2010 at 11:13 AM.
08-10-2010, 11:33 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
You can get a 1 wire CS144. Otherwise, you will need to adapt your harness. MADelectric & others sell an adapter to plug your 10SI into the CS144 voltage regulator.
While you're at it, you better upgrade that charge wire to 8 ga.
While you're at it, you better upgrade that charge wire to 8 ga.
Last edited by Ben Lurkin; 08-10-2010 at 11:35 AM.
08-10-2010, 12:05 PM
#3
Instructor
Between this post and previous post of 300rpm drop, I think that you should think about rewiring your alternator, which ever one you decide on. You say that you have one wire alternator now, but picture shows lead wire going to horn relay. One wire alternator should go directly to battery. Properly set up one wire alt, basically acts as a battery charger.
For your car and amp needs, I would seriously consider the 3 wire set up. More hassle to install, but will be well worth it. (not very much of hassle either)
For your car and amp needs, I would seriously consider the 3 wire set up. More hassle to install, but will be well worth it. (not very much of hassle either)
08-10-2010, 12:20 PM
#4
Ben Lurkin: I don't mind purchasing a one wire CS144. That might be an option.
BeaterVette: Thanks for the advice. I thought the designation of a one wire alternator was that it only had one hot wire coming off of it. I did not know that it mattered where the wire went. My wire goes from the alternator to the horn relay and is mated with a wire that runs directly to my starter (pos battery cable). I'm no electrical whiz, all my posts make that obvious, but what is the difference in the way my wire current makes its way to my battery whether it's directly connected, or goes to a few more destinations before finally landing at the battery?
Also, can I relieve the amperage load on the one wire I have now by adding a larger 8 gauge wire at the same BAT terminal on the alternator and run it directly to the pos battery connection at the starter?
Thanks in advance for you reply.
BeaterVette: Thanks for the advice. I thought the designation of a one wire alternator was that it only had one hot wire coming off of it. I did not know that it mattered where the wire went. My wire goes from the alternator to the horn relay and is mated with a wire that runs directly to my starter (pos battery cable). I'm no electrical whiz, all my posts make that obvious, but what is the difference in the way my wire current makes its way to my battery whether it's directly connected, or goes to a few more destinations before finally landing at the battery?
Also, can I relieve the amperage load on the one wire I have now by adding a larger 8 gauge wire at the same BAT terminal on the alternator and run it directly to the pos battery connection at the starter?
Thanks in advance for you reply.
08-10-2010, 04:42 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Ben Lurkin: I don't mind purchasing a one wire CS144. That might be an option.
BeaterVette: Thanks for the advice. I thought the designation of a one wire alternator was that it only had one hot wire coming off of it. I did not know that it mattered where the wire went. My wire goes from the alternator to the horn relay and is mated with a wire that runs directly to my starter (pos battery cable). I'm no electrical whiz, all my posts make that obvious, but what is the difference in the way my wire current makes its way to my battery whether it's directly connected, or goes to a few more destinations before finally landing at the battery?
Also, can I relieve the amperage load on the one wire I have now by adding a larger 8 gauge wire at the same BAT terminal on the alternator and run it directly to the pos battery connection at the starter?
Thanks in advance for you reply.
BeaterVette: Thanks for the advice. I thought the designation of a one wire alternator was that it only had one hot wire coming off of it. I did not know that it mattered where the wire went. My wire goes from the alternator to the horn relay and is mated with a wire that runs directly to my starter (pos battery cable). I'm no electrical whiz, all my posts make that obvious, but what is the difference in the way my wire current makes its way to my battery whether it's directly connected, or goes to a few more destinations before finally landing at the battery?
Also, can I relieve the amperage load on the one wire I have now by adding a larger 8 gauge wire at the same BAT terminal on the alternator and run it directly to the pos battery connection at the starter?
Thanks in advance for you reply.
Here's some reading (a bit long) on 1-wire vs. three wire hookup. It explains why the 3-wire setup is the better way to go:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
08-10-2010, 06:28 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
If you are running a 1-wire, it may have already been internally upgraded beyond its original rating. (My 1-wire was upgraded to 100 amps.) If that's the case, the replacement may not gain you as much as you are hoping for. Maybe there is a way to have this checked before you go to the expense of changing it out for minimal/no net gain.
As for the BATT wire going to the horn relay or directly to the battery, it sounds as if your year is wired like the '64, and making this change from the horn relay to the battery will reduce the function/sensitivity of your battery gauge. My 1-wire is wired to the horn relay using the stock BATT wire and works fine. Putting a fatter (or piggyback) wire from the alt to the horn relay however would not reduce this sensitivity and give you more capacity for your accessories, assuming they are connected at the horn relay.
As for the BATT wire going to the horn relay or directly to the battery, it sounds as if your year is wired like the '64, and making this change from the horn relay to the battery will reduce the function/sensitivity of your battery gauge. My 1-wire is wired to the horn relay using the stock BATT wire and works fine. Putting a fatter (or piggyback) wire from the alt to the horn relay however would not reduce this sensitivity and give you more capacity for your accessories, assuming they are connected at the horn relay.
Last edited by toddalin; 08-10-2010 at 06:31 PM.
08-10-2010, 09:17 PM
#7
Ben Lurkin: Thank you for that link to Mad Electric. It's become my new favorite site. The site makes sense about the 3 wire vs. the 1 wire. But I ordered a 1 wire 160 amp CS130 from Nations Auto Electric. If this ends up to be a big waste of time and money, I will post and take my medicine. If it works for me then of course I'll post that too!! After reading the link you sent, I'll be curious what my voltage will be at the horn relay. The writer is convinced that I will only be seeing ~12v there. I'm not so sure. I'm beefing up the wires from the new alternator to the horn relay and from the relay to the starter. Also I'll be adding a 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter pos battery cable like you and beatervette discussed. We will see. Thanks again for the link. Very informative.
Toddalin: Man if that is the case and I find that this alternator is no improvement, then back it goes and I'll wire her up 3 way. It's a gamble so we will see how it goes!!
Toddalin: Man if that is the case and I find that this alternator is no improvement, then back it goes and I'll wire her up 3 way. It's a gamble so we will see how it goes!!
08-10-2010, 09:33 PM
#8
Hello again.
I have another question. I want to replace my low amp alternator with the CS144 alternator because of the addition of the Dewitts electric fans. The previous owner of my car installed a March pulley system which basically swapped the location of my A/C compressor and alternator. My alternator now resides on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I guess in doing this, they got rid of the stock alternator wiring and installed a one wire alternator setup. The alternator is not stock. It's a generic chrome unit and is grossly underpowered when my electric fans kick on. My question is this: How do I wire up the CS144? Is it just as simple as connecting my "one" wire to the BAT terminal on the back of the alternator? More importantly, do I need to add the 35 ohms of resistance to the "one" wire to keep my alternator from burning out?
Here's a pic of my setup. Don't laugh at the tape. That was the other owner's handy work. It will be soldered and shrink wrapped during the alternator swap. The wire on the left is the hot wire going to my horn relay and the wire on the right is the ground for my MSD 6AL box.
Thanks in advance for the help.
I have another question. I want to replace my low amp alternator with the CS144 alternator because of the addition of the Dewitts electric fans. The previous owner of my car installed a March pulley system which basically swapped the location of my A/C compressor and alternator. My alternator now resides on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I guess in doing this, they got rid of the stock alternator wiring and installed a one wire alternator setup. The alternator is not stock. It's a generic chrome unit and is grossly underpowered when my electric fans kick on. My question is this: How do I wire up the CS144? Is it just as simple as connecting my "one" wire to the BAT terminal on the back of the alternator? More importantly, do I need to add the 35 ohms of resistance to the "one" wire to keep my alternator from burning out?
Here's a pic of my setup. Don't laugh at the tape. That was the other owner's handy work. It will be soldered and shrink wrapped during the alternator swap. The wire on the left is the hot wire going to my horn relay and the wire on the right is the ground for my MSD 6AL box.
Thanks in advance for the help.
I have the DeWitt's radiator and fans and it is no big deal, buy the 1 wire setup and you are good to go.
08-10-2010, 09:45 PM
#9
08-10-2010, 10:53 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
