mj9311

jordan89

Are you going to paint the engine bay while the engine is out? Keep us posted with lots of pics. Good luck.

mj9311

yea i just finished painting it it was a PITA getting 35 years of grime clean

mj9311

out with the old turbo 350 700 r4 on its way should be here by monday


a press i made to press the new bushings in its not pretty but does the trick


i took the heater core out and fabricated a piece to cover the hole

mj9311

i got my dash MOSTLY back together

mopkop

looks like a two bolt main block

L88Plus

yeah, it sure does. I'd be leery of using a 2-bolt block for a stroker motor. If that block is original and stamped, I'd store it in favor of an early 70's 4-bolt block, preferrably one with 2482 caps.

BLOCKMAN

X2 on that as I have seen to many guys try that and end up with caps walking around in their registers and have seen broken caps as well.

If a guy wants to use a 2 bolt block we will put some splayed caps on and so far no problems.

Its the extra stroke that kills the 2 bolt caps as it does put more side load on them.

billla

How much power are you planning to make? Many, many well-done 383's our there running on 2-bolt mains (w/studs)...but over 5,500 RPM or about 400 HP or so...and you're rolling the dice for sure.

Unless it's an absolute requirement to keep the block, aftermarket steel caps are false economy - better off at that point to get a roller-capable 4-bolt block.

I agree that if it's numbers-matching, the best approach is to set it aside.

mj9311

whats your opinion on splayed caps??

Scott Marzahl

I know when I had the same shop that Billa uses in Seattle (Action Machine) quote me the cost of installing splayed center caps and a billet front cap, the cost of caps and machining was $800. You are better off picking up a late '80s roller block for a few hundred bucks or buy a Dart high performance block.

BLOCKMAN

We have installed a lot of splayed caps over the years, But first the block should be sonic tested before its even cleaned to make sure the cylinder wall thickness is good enough!!

Since Dart has come out with the SHP blocks we don't put that many spalyed caps on any more.

Like was posted its about an 7 or 800 dollar job then you still have decking, boring, plate honing, stroker clearance ETC.

billla

IMHO if you're building to a power level where splayed caps would make a difference...you should be using an aftermarket block.

It's always a tough call - sometimes we look at the block we have and get kind of attached. But the amount of money you'll have in that chunk of iron by the time it's square to the world in all respects - especially for a high-power build - you have to take a very close look at what the best choice is.

It all starts with the power levels - figure out what you want to make for power and work backwards from there.

mj9311

soooo... i actually forgot i started this post but ive been wrenching away little by little. i did decide to keep the block switched to studs and the guy at my local engine shop seemed pretty confident that i would be ok with it as ill be right around 400 425 hp max. so that being said nthey bored it .030 over boiled it honed it and all that good stuff and i picked it up last monday

... nice and clean


plasti-guaged the bearings


installed the eagle crank


setting piston/ oil rings were a PITA and very time consuming... i messed up the first set... i guess a noob mistake but it happens


then i threw in the cam and gears
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/12-246-3/10002/-1


and onto the tc cover and prosport sfi dampener


head gaskets and edelbrock performer rpm heads



crane lifters, comp cam 7.800 pushrods, scorpion 1.6 roller rockers


threw on the intake manifold also a edelbrock performer rpm, valve covers, holley fuel pump, stewart water pump


i filled it with oil double checked everything and a few more bolt ons and as it turns out i missed an oil hole made a mess while priming


threw on the flex plate and bolted it up to the new 700 r4 i decided to swap "while the motor was out" along with all new urethane front end suspension kit from energy suspensions... another one of the "well while i got it open" and that lies goes on and on $$$$


dropped them in with almost no problems i also took the liberty while it was out to clean up the whole compartment and paint it flat black it looks pretty good


and i havent taken any pics since but i got the headers, carb, mounted the msd 6al box and blaster,distributor, and the rad support. now all the fun begins with the wiring i have to do for the dual elec fans im installing and plumbing for a 2nd tranny cooler