Can't remove rear shock mount.
#21
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Boca Raton Florida
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you can always reuse the shock mount unless you break it. The purpose of cutting the strut is because of the 3 parts involved, its the cheapest. When yoiu have one that just will not come apart, something has to give. The cut roger showed is the best way to do it. The big pproblem is the steel sleeve that is rusted to the mount shaft is under the rubber inside the strut. I never tried it but maybe you can burn off the rubber and then get to the sleeve as Roger posted, just a thought
#23
Drifting
1. Went thru the same sh*t your going thru last year. I beat on it, but was fearful of breaking an ear. Soaking it in PB blaster did not work. I also put a propane torch to it. Nothing.... During the whole process, I decided to replace my strut rods with adjustables, and figured I would need new shock mounts anyway.
I used the torch to burn the old rubber bushings out on each side where the strut rod connects with the shock mount. This created a nice gap to put a saw blade.
Then I tried a sawzall and hack saw to cut thru the metal sleeve and that did not work.
So I finally bought a 4 inch angle grinder from the home D store and 2 metal cutting blades for a few bucks and I cut those bastards out. Two cuts on each side. Made a lot of sparks. I was doing this while it was still bolted to the car.
This took about 1 hr for 4 cuts. Good luck.
[IMG][/IMG]
I used the torch to burn the old rubber bushings out on each side where the strut rod connects with the shock mount. This created a nice gap to put a saw blade.
Then I tried a sawzall and hack saw to cut thru the metal sleeve and that did not work.
So I finally bought a 4 inch angle grinder from the home D store and 2 metal cutting blades for a few bucks and I cut those bastards out. Two cuts on each side. Made a lot of sparks. I was doing this while it was still bolted to the car.
This took about 1 hr for 4 cuts. Good luck.
[IMG][/IMG]
#24
Race Director
lol I knew these photos would come in handy some time and be funny.
Main thing is you're going to have to cut the bolt out if hitting it isn't working.
Also like what's been said... DO NOT ROTATE the mount as it's not round.
I didn't have this up for very long but i did use the rope to help hold the saw while i applied force from the top. Use a diamond grid blade... and some time.
Main thing is you're going to have to cut the bolt out if hitting it isn't working.
Also like what's been said... DO NOT ROTATE the mount as it's not round.
I didn't have this up for very long but i did use the rope to help hold the saw while i applied force from the top. Use a diamond grid blade... and some time.
#25
Safety Car
Thread Starter
As mentioned in my previous post I'm already $3000.00 over my $7000.00 budget and I just broke the strut came bolt which means I'll probably break the other side while removing the drivers side.
The shock mount delivered to my door in Canada will cost around $70.00 each, which just keeps adding to the already over budget. I'm trying to save as many parts as possible since there is much more needed on this nightmare.
Update: since the rear end seems to be in much worse shape then I thought I'm going to rebuild the trailing arms and have removed one side (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-arm-bolt.html) therefore the strut rod and shock mount are attatched to the trailing arm which has been removed from the car. One side only.
The shock mount delivered to my door in Canada will cost around $70.00 each, which just keeps adding to the already over budget. I'm trying to save as many parts as possible since there is much more needed on this nightmare.
Update: since the rear end seems to be in much worse shape then I thought I'm going to rebuild the trailing arms and have removed one side (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-arm-bolt.html) therefore the strut rod and shock mount are attatched to the trailing arm which has been removed from the car. One side only.
Last edited by Maymyvetteliveforevr; 08-28-2010 at 03:46 PM.
#29
Race Director
Try drilling a small hole through the top of the strut rod down to the top of the shock mount,fill the hole with PB. The PB will eventually get to the inner bushing sleeve that is causing the problem and loosen it. I know because I have used this method before ,but it takes more money "in time" than for me to just cut the strut. The strut usually needs bushings anyway.
#31
Go to your local auto store and rent a 2-3 jaw puller (smaller the better so the jaws fit in between the ear and the strut). It's kind of akward to get on there right but it gets the job done easily. Faster than cutting, but power tools are fun...
Good luck,
Sean
Good luck,
Sean
#32
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Update:
I've removed the trailing arm from the car and have seperated most parts. The strut rod is now seperated from the trailing arm but is still attached to the forks/ears (pictured part below), what every you call this part. I've managed to remove the rubber inbetween and the rubber between the bushing and strut rod has deteriorated to the point that the strut rod now moves from side to side freely.
I've removed the trailing arm from the car and have seperated most parts. The strut rod is now seperated from the trailing arm but is still attached to the forks/ears (pictured part below), what every you call this part. I've managed to remove the rubber inbetween and the rubber between the bushing and strut rod has deteriorated to the point that the strut rod now moves from side to side freely.
#34
Dang, buddy, that car just isn't cutting you any breaks is it? I think you're going to have to pick a part to sacrifice, and the cheapest of those is the mount itself.
Zip has them for $45 a piece. After shipping, us 'Merkins aren't much better off.
Here's a thought. If you burn out the bushing, would you have enough room to slip a screwdriver/chisel/punch or anything to spread open the bushing sleeve? If you could just get something into its split and pry it a little, it would break apart the rust you're fighting and then the mount would tap out.
Here's a thought. If you burn out the bushing, would you have enough room to slip a screwdriver/chisel/punch or anything to spread open the bushing sleeve? If you could just get something into its split and pry it a little, it would break apart the rust you're fighting and then the mount would tap out.
#35
Burning Brakes
Yep, like I said many posts ago...a BFH will do the trick. I did nearly everything you've already done, I hit mine twice with a short handled 5 lb hammer and they were out....
#36
He's fighting some pretty severe rust welding. You should read his other thread on the trials he's had with his TA bushings. You don't want to pound too much on the mount because you run the risk of screwing up those hub ears. Some finesse is needed in his situation.
#37
Drifting
yeah, the BFH, did not work for me. Some does , some not. I also tried the puller or pusher option and I failed at that part. With them being out of the car, they should be easy to cut. I think I got mine at Willcox, they had the best price little less than a year ago.
#38
Safety Car
Thread Starter
It got busy today and I didn't have time to make any attempts today but I will do so again tomorrow and report back.
I keep hearing about purchasing new shock mounts, but I have to emphasis that I'm already $3000.00 over budget and I broke the cam bushing bolt while taking out the strut rod out. I envy members that live in the US since your pricing is so much lower. I keeping reading that a pair of shock mounts are $90.00 per pair in the States, well delivered to my door it's more like $150.00 The strut rod bolts are almost the same price so let's just add another $150.00. If I can't save the rotors then let's add another $$$, do you see where I'm going.
My $7000.00 budget is presently at $10,000.00 and I still haven't replaced the 25 year old tires. If I were to be more realistic my budget can’t exceed $12,000.00 since there are also some cosmetic repairs therefore I have to save as many parts as I can.
Sorry for the tone folks, I know you're trying to help…… I guess frustration has set in. I hope I have better luck tomorrow and please don't give up on me............well, not just yet.
As my forum name implies, I'm here for a long time and I don't give up easily....as long as I can find the time.
I keep hearing about purchasing new shock mounts, but I have to emphasis that I'm already $3000.00 over budget and I broke the cam bushing bolt while taking out the strut rod out. I envy members that live in the US since your pricing is so much lower. I keeping reading that a pair of shock mounts are $90.00 per pair in the States, well delivered to my door it's more like $150.00 The strut rod bolts are almost the same price so let's just add another $150.00. If I can't save the rotors then let's add another $$$, do you see where I'm going.
My $7000.00 budget is presently at $10,000.00 and I still haven't replaced the 25 year old tires. If I were to be more realistic my budget can’t exceed $12,000.00 since there are also some cosmetic repairs therefore I have to save as many parts as I can.
Sorry for the tone folks, I know you're trying to help…… I guess frustration has set in. I hope I have better luck tomorrow and please don't give up on me............well, not just yet.
As my forum name implies, I'm here for a long time and I don't give up easily....as long as I can find the time.
#39
Le Mans Master
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Now that the trailing arms are off the car can't you bring the assembly to someone with a torch?
Some real heat and a few taps with a hammer might do it.
Some real heat and a few taps with a hammer might do it.
#40
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Sure can and I think I was told that the rate is around $70.00 per hour mininum $50.00 so I stopped calling around. I guess I could also rent torches but then I might as well purchase new ones at that rate.
It was worth a try.
It was worth a try.