2004R trans, B&M 2400 stall, fluid leak.
09-04-2010, 01:19 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
2004R trans, B&M 2400 stall, fluid leak.
Thanks for all the responses on the dipstick issue, 
but now for another problem. 
This may be like closing the barn door after the horse has run away :o but the reason for the inquiry is that I used the th350 dipstick in the 2004R. with 2400 stall from B&M without compensating for the 3/4" diffrence in the tubes. Now for the problem, after a few runs up the driveway I started to develope a leak between the motor and transmission. I should mention, this is a newly rebuilt transmission with a 13 vein pump, red eagle bands, big servo, and transgo shift kit. B&M sent me a front oil seal, but of course I had already installed the one from the rebuild kit. The one from B&M had what appeared to be a three prong retaining ring with it. I guess i was just wondering if overfilling the transmission by a gt. would cause me to blow the seal. I have to take the body off the car again anyway to paint it so it will not be a real issue to change the seal at that time.
Anyway guys, thanks for any input.
C
but now for another problem. This may be like closing the barn door after the horse has run away :o but the reason for the inquiry is that I used the th350 dipstick in the 2004R. with 2400 stall from B&M without compensating for the 3/4" diffrence in the tubes. Now for the problem, after a few runs up the driveway I started to develope a leak between the motor and transmission. I should mention, this is a newly rebuilt transmission with a 13 vein pump, red eagle bands, big servo, and transgo shift kit. B&M sent me a front oil seal, but of course I had already installed the one from the rebuild kit. The one from B&M had what appeared to be a three prong retaining ring with it. I guess i was just wondering if overfilling the transmission by a gt. would cause me to blow the seal. I have to take the body off the car again anyway to paint it so it will not be a real issue to change the seal at that time.Anyway guys, thanks for any input.
C
09-04-2010, 10:11 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
There are 2 seals that can be leaking. One is the front pump seal, some use the retaining ring some don't. I don't have one on mine, but some guys swear by it. The other is the pump seal itself. It's the O ring that goes around the pump. It has be be installed with the stripe outside, and if it's not lubed before it's installed it can tear easily on installation. You're gonna have to pull it either way, I'd just be prepared for both. The good news is the parts are cheap!!
09-04-2010, 12:22 PM
#3
Racer
There is a fluid drain hole that needs to be opened up to relieve some of the pressure on the front seal in a performance application.You may want to check with the builder to see if this was done. if not here is what needs to be done.
First drill the front seal area drain hole(angled passage viewed from the front of the pump with the seal removed)to a 1/4". Drill the intersecting passage and mating passage in rear pump half to 5/16". This will help front seal drain back to the pan and will keep from blowing the front seal out.
I would also think about a 10 vein pump with billet sealing rings instead of the 13 vein pump. As I understand from several builders that specialize in 200-4R's it creates more issues than it cures.
First drill the front seal area drain hole(angled passage viewed from the front of the pump with the seal removed)to a 1/4". Drill the intersecting passage and mating passage in rear pump half to 5/16". This will help front seal drain back to the pan and will keep from blowing the front seal out.
I would also think about a 10 vein pump with billet sealing rings instead of the 13 vein pump. As I understand from several builders that specialize in 200-4R's it creates more issues than it cures.
09-04-2010, 04:44 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
GM had a service bulletin for drilling the pump body as HBZ suggests. Another tip is to put a small bead of red loctite around the OD of the seal before you drive it in. You already packed the cavity of the seal with grease so the little spring didn't pop out when you drove the seal in.
09-04-2010, 05:22 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
There are 2 seals that can be leaking. One is the front pump seal, some use the retaining ring some don't. I don't have one on mine, but some guys swear by it. The other is the pump seal itself. It's the O ring that goes around the pump. It has be be installed with the stripe outside, and if it's not lubed before it's installed it can tear easily on installation. You're gonna have to pull it either way, I'd just be prepared for both. The good news is the parts are cheap!!
I guess I'll know once I pull the tranny. I'm away working now so it will be a month or so before I get at it. I really appreciate the help. I'll probably have to get more information from you when I get at it.
Thanks again
C
09-04-2010, 05:26 PM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
There is a fluid drain hole that needs to be opened up to relieve some of the pressure on the front seal in a performance application.You may want to check with the builder to see if this was done. if not here is what needs to be done.
First drill the front seal area drain hole(angled passage viewed from the front of the pump with the seal removed)to a 1/4". Drill the intersecting passage and mating passage in rear pump half to 5/16". This will help front seal drain back to the pan and will keep from blowing the front seal out.
I would also think about a 10 vein pump with billet sealing rings instead of the 13 vein pump. As I understand from several builders that specialize in 200-4R's it creates more issues than it cures.
First drill the front seal area drain hole(angled passage viewed from the front of the pump with the seal removed)to a 1/4". Drill the intersecting passage and mating passage in rear pump half to 5/16". This will help front seal drain back to the pan and will keep from blowing the front seal out.
I would also think about a 10 vein pump with billet sealing rings instead of the 13 vein pump. As I understand from several builders that specialize in 200-4R's it creates more issues than it cures.
C
09-04-2010, 07:06 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
After you drill out the drain back hole and put in the new seal, use the seal retainer you have too. It's like a belt and suspenders, but it will cure the front seal problems for good.
09-05-2010, 09:20 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
There is a fluid drain hole that needs to be opened up to relieve some of the pressure on the front seal in a performance application.You may want to check with the builder to see if this was done. if not here is what needs to be done.
First drill the front seal area drain hole(angled passage viewed from the front of the pump with the seal removed)to a 1/4". Drill the intersecting passage and mating passage in rear pump half to 5/16". This will help front seal drain back to the pan and will keep from blowing the front seal out.
I would also think about a 10 vein pump with billet sealing rings instead of the 13 vein pump. As I understand from several builders that specialize in 200-4R's it creates more issues than it cures.
First drill the front seal area drain hole(angled passage viewed from the front of the pump with the seal removed)to a 1/4". Drill the intersecting passage and mating passage in rear pump half to 5/16". This will help front seal drain back to the pan and will keep from blowing the front seal out.
I would also think about a 10 vein pump with billet sealing rings instead of the 13 vein pump. As I understand from several builders that specialize in 200-4R's it creates more issues than it cures.
If you're pulling it apart, go back to the 10 vane pump. It's all you need and it's stronger than the 13 vane version. The 13 vane version may give a bit more steady pressure, but it's weaker too, and you'll never notice the difference in how steady the pressure is...
