Power brake booster
#2
Team Owner
It's not all that bad. You will have difficulty getting to the booster mounting screws (remove seat...it's easier), you will need to bench-bleed the new master cylinder, and you need to compare old and new parts to make sure that you are replacing with the correct components.
#3
Race Director
if you are going that far.... i would suggest you replace the vacuum unit with a hydro boost..... ~$300...... but what an upgrade!
make sure you have a long extension wrench, with a universal joint near the socket. and even if you cant see that 4th bolt.... its there..
good luck,,, p:-)
make sure you have a long extension wrench, with a universal joint near the socket. and even if you cant see that 4th bolt.... its there..
good luck,,, p:-)
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
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Cruise-In II Veteran
Boosters seldom fail. Do you need one?
#6
Pro
#7
Drifting
Very nice. I like that. Nice and clean looking. That would come in handy with the BB.
Per Red99 question above, how long would it take to remove the old booster and install this? do you need anything specific for the power steering assembly and do you have to re-bleed the brake system?
Per Red99 question above, how long would it take to remove the old booster and install this? do you need anything specific for the power steering assembly and do you have to re-bleed the brake system?
#8
Pro
Very nice. I like that. Nice and clean looking. That would come in handy with the BB.
Per Red99 question above, how long would it take to remove the old booster and install this? do you need anything specific for the power steering assembly and do you have to re-bleed the brake system?
Per Red99 question above, how long would it take to remove the old booster and install this? do you need anything specific for the power steering assembly and do you have to re-bleed the brake system?
You can save some money by buying the parts and pieces and putting it together yourself. That tends to stretch the time needed for the project but if the cost is your driving factor, it's the way to go. You can find the units on diesel powered pickups (Fords and Chevys) in the junk yards and get some tees and hoses at NAPA or one of the other retail stores. I bought a rebuilt booster from Rock Auto for $200 (including core charge and shipping). Then I blew about $500 more on master cylinders, braided Teflon lines and fittings. It's all just a symptom of an incurable disease....
Here's a couple of descriptions of typical installs on C3 Corvettes:
http://www.corvettec3.ca/hydro.htm
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...schematic.html
Hydratech Braking and Tallon Hydraulics are good sources for complete kits and/or the parts to complete your installation.
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/
http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/
Last edited by Bob Heine; 09-30-2010 at 12:57 PM.
#9
Race Director
If you have small hands, long arms, and a high pain threshold, removing the booster is a piece of cake. I would guess this is a one-day job if you have all the parts needed for the conversion. You can do the job without having to re-bleed the brakes but you have to be very careful moving the master cylinder. I would unbolt the brake pipe distribution and switch assembly from the frame to get some extra wiggle room.
You can save some money by buying the parts and pieces and putting it together yourself. That tends to stretch the time needed for the project but if the cost is your driving factor, it's the way to go. You can find the units on diesel powered pickups (Fords and Chevys) in the junk yards and get some tees and hoses at NAPA or one of the other retail stores. I bought a rebuilt booster from Rock Auto for $200 (including core charge and shipping). Then I blew about $500 more on master cylinders, braided Teflon lines and fittings. It's all just a symptom of an incurable disease....
Here's a couple of descriptions of typical installs on C3 Corvettes:
http://www.corvettec3.ca/hydro.htm
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...schematic.html
Hydratech Braking and Tallon Hydraulics are good sources for complete kits and/or the parts to complete your installation.
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/
http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/
You can save some money by buying the parts and pieces and putting it together yourself. That tends to stretch the time needed for the project but if the cost is your driving factor, it's the way to go. You can find the units on diesel powered pickups (Fords and Chevys) in the junk yards and get some tees and hoses at NAPA or one of the other retail stores. I bought a rebuilt booster from Rock Auto for $200 (including core charge and shipping). Then I blew about $500 more on master cylinders, braided Teflon lines and fittings. It's all just a symptom of an incurable disease....
Here's a couple of descriptions of typical installs on C3 Corvettes:
http://www.corvettec3.ca/hydro.htm
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...schematic.html
Hydratech Braking and Tallon Hydraulics are good sources for complete kits and/or the parts to complete your installation.
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/
http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/
a little more to add.... you can get all the hoses and related parts from Summit Racing, about $150....there used to be a CF member here (gone now) but sold remanufactured and modded units for $150, I can give you his email if you want, nice guy....
as far as braking, no it will not make you stop any faster, that is a product of your pads and rotors....
BUT, it will give a more linear action and consistent as well, no mushy peddle (that is as long as the brakes lines are free of air... no bleed off, ie you can push 100 times and the peddle feels the same every time,,,, easier, and just a better feel in every way.
there are those who have hydro boost, and those who have never tried hydroboost....
#10
Racer
Not a bad job to replace the stock unit...the fasteners under the dash are just difficult. Maybe 3- 4 hours if you have all the parts. You'll be surprised how simple the system is.
#12
Race Director
The only major part that I have installed that was easier than the HB was the Rack and Pinion system....this is not hard.... p:-)
#13
Pro
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...ke-Assist.html
One tiny issue with this setup is the master cylinder. Your cylinder bore is 1-inch on manual brakes so it will be super sensitive when you add the booster. The power brake master cylinder is 1-1/8 inch bore so it's a little less sensitive. Just something to keep in mind if you end up with power brakes that are too touchy. Everything I've heard about the hydroboost setup suggests that you wear a face protector for the test run (hockey mask like Jason's).
Last edited by Bob Heine; 09-30-2010 at 06:20 PM.