Golden

After the answers I got to another threaed of mine I suspect I may have to replace or repair the gas line on my '71 due to damage or corrosion.

Am I right in thinking that sections of the pipe are hidden above the frame? If I do find a leak somewhere I was considering bypassing a section of the line with either replacement soft hose or use hose to join the factory line with some replacement hard line.

Any thoughts?

Thanks guys

jotto

Several years ago, I had a leak on my 75 that was discovered at the Nationals. It was in the area just above the gusset in front of the rear kick up. As you have become aware, mud etc gets trapped here and rots the line out. I replaced a piece about 1m long from above the frame rail in the wheel well to a point just in front of the kick up using flexible fuel hose and a couple of fuel line clamps.
Worked well and was going to be a temporary repair.......

Duke94

If you have the working space, it's always best to patch in a new section of steel brake tube. Don't use rubber hose unless you can put a raised bead on the end of the steel tube so the rubber hose won't come off. Just sliding a piece of rubber hose over the tube with a hose clamp to hold it is a
Gary

jotto

So the stock lines which are connected to the rubber lines with clamps are a no no?

Alan 71

Hi G,
It's the rear section of the gas and return line that are difficult to get to. People have been successful in replacing the lines with out lifting the body but it's a good bit of work. Using regular steel lines rather than SS makes it a little easier since the regular steel line is a lot easier to bend.
Here's a picture that shows where access to the lines become difficult on the passenger's side frame rail.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Alan 71

Hi J,
The stock lines have a type of 'flair' on the end. The hose clamp needs to be on the other side of that 'flair' to make a safe connection and seal.
Regards,
Alan

jotto

When I helped a friend replace his fuel and brake lines with an after market set, they didnt have a flared or bubble end. Hasnt leaked and he has since changed to a FI setup. Would be difficult to get at some of the connections now to install a flare.

Golden

I've done some 'temporary' repairs like that

Thank you all for the replies, when I get time I'll get some gas and have a proper look.

Golden

Could someone confirm that the hard lines are 3/8 diameter?

Duke94

You'll find that the stock lines with the rubber hose have a raised bead that the hose goes over so the hose won't slip off.

Gary

ChrisJP85

ID or OD? I'm pretty sure hard lines are 3/8 outer diameter. Unless most mine are not stock, which tends to be the case.

Roco71

The fuel line is 3/8th

noonie

The fuel supply line is 3/8" od and the return line is 1/4" od.
(tubing is always measured by the od)

The supply line can leak in storage but the return line will not, other than a pint or so at first, till empty.

Don't know if sae sizes are easily available over there but, brake line is the same tubing, sold with flare nuts installed at any parts store here. You can use an inverted flare coupling to connect two pieces. This is the best way to splice a line. You must flare the old line in place and space can create a challange.
You can repair either supply or return with gasoline rated hose. To put a bead on the end with less than the proper bead tool, you can take a regular 45° flaring tool and just do the first step to prepare the invert with the dye, acts just like the proper bead.
You can even just clamp it on the straight pipe, pushing it on longer and 2 clamps if wanted.

The supply line has no pressure running and only gravity sitting and the return has next to no pressure running.

chucks

I did the exact repair that jotto did. The repair was in the same location and I used rubber fuel rated line. That was about 17 years ago. No problems.

Golden

Thanks again for all the info guys, much appreciated