Evapo-Rust Before and After
11-16-2010, 09:29 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
Terrific! I actually have a Harbor freight store right near where I live! I have a 2001 Grand Prix with 100,000 miles on it in great shape. Thinking about using it on the underside to get rid of some surface rust that has begun to appear on the underside chassis! Is it good for that application? Also, have a very few small spots on the frame of the 78-just surface rust-very mild!
11-16-2010, 09:53 AM
#5
Race Director
Google it. It's about $21.00 a gallon and Northern Tool has 5 gallons for $80.00. It almost sounds to good to be true when you read the data info.
11-16-2010, 10:40 AM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Terrific! I actually have a Harbor freight store right near where I live! I have a 2001 Grand Prix with 100,000 miles on it in great shape. Thinking about using it on the underside to get rid of some surface rust that has begun to appear on the underside chassis! Is it good for that application? Also, have a very few small spots on the frame of the 78-just surface rust-very mild!
11-16-2010, 11:59 AM
#7
Race Director
Wow that silver section on the bottom is where you soaked it ? Did it remove all the rust, it sure looks like it, it almost looks like it was painted silver 
11-16-2010, 12:07 PM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Yep, sure was. It is supposed to only remove the rust and not affect the painted areas. This seems to be the case as all of the black paint on the back of the wheel was rusted. Some silver painted areas on the front of the wheel look unaffected on the third picture as they weren't rusted.
Last edited by wan2run; 11-16-2010 at 12:18 PM.
11-16-2010, 12:23 PM
#9
Race Director
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Old fashioned navy jelly does the same thing and clings to surfaces. that's why they use it on ships.
11-16-2010, 12:31 PM
#10
Drifting
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Evaporust on the other hand use the chelating reaction to actually remove the rust, just like molasse does.
Chelating process is potentially more delicate as it is not reacting with non rusted metal. However, this reaction with non rusted metal is often a good thing since it etches the metal for better paint adherence.
11-16-2010, 03:31 PM
#11
Racer
I have used EvapoRust for 3 yrs now, gone through about 20gals of the stuff during my restoration of my '57 Chevrolet BelAir 2dr Hardtop. It's very good, but it looses effectiveness after a few soakings, when it's turned blackish it's time to replace. I have seen some amazing results with rusted chrome pieces, so good that in fact I was able to reuse some of the chromed pieces after treatment with EvapoRust.
11-16-2010, 04:14 PM
#12
Race Director
No exactly, Navy Jelly uses Phosphoric Acid to convert ferrous oxide.
Evaporust on the other hand use the chelating reaction to actually remove the rust, just like molasse does.
Chelating process is potentially more delicate as it is not reacting with non rusted metal. However, this reaction with non rusted metal is often a good thing since it etches the metal for better paint adherence.
Evaporust on the other hand use the chelating reaction to actually remove the rust, just like molasse does.
Chelating process is potentially more delicate as it is not reacting with non rusted metal. However, this reaction with non rusted metal is often a good thing since it etches the metal for better paint adherence.
Oxalic acid also an organic that similarily chilates. So does cyanide.
The only reason Evaporust can get away with stating that it contains no acids or alkyds is because it is in diluted enough amounts not to be considered hazardous. If it really contained truly neutral liquids, then it would do absolutely squat.
Way overpriced.
Phosphoric acid has the unique ability to attack rust (dissolve iron oxide) and leave the good iron relatively untouched (slightly etched).
It also leaves a coating of iron phosphate behind to prevent oxygen attack (rusting).
It fact it is so dangerous that it is an ingredient of Coca Cola
You can also rub slightly rusted chrome with an aluminum bar and it will attack the iron oxide and turn into aluminum oxide and iron.
11-16-2010, 05:11 PM
#13
Drifting
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At least this is was I understood from the wikipedia page.
Oh well, I guess I'm nitpicking on this.
11-16-2010, 06:32 PM
#14
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11-16-2010, 08:26 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
Check their website-it can be used in applications where soaking is not required like working on underbody chassis's where there is rust. They have pictures of the results used on rusting frames on their websites!
11-17-2010, 03:45 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
I've been using this for years:
http://www.zepmfg.com/products/produ...earchTerm=rust
...only I purchase it by the 5-gal bucket,..about $35.
This stuff works better than anything I've used and it's non-acidic and non-caustic.
Also, not spoil your party, but the wheel appears to be bent. In the top photo look at the lip at the 7 o'clock position.
http://www.zepmfg.com/products/produ...earchTerm=rust
...only I purchase it by the 5-gal bucket,..about $35.
This stuff works better than anything I've used and it's non-acidic and non-caustic.
Also, not spoil your party, but the wheel appears to be bent. In the top photo look at the lip at the 7 o'clock position.
11-17-2010, 10:40 PM
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
I've been using this for years:
http://www.zepmfg.com/products/produ...earchTerm=rust
...only I purchase it by the 5-gal bucket,..about $35.
This stuff works better than anything I've used and it's non-acidic and non-caustic.
Also, not spoil your party, but the wheel appears to be bent. In the top photo look at the lip at the 7 o'clock position.
http://www.zepmfg.com/products/produ...earchTerm=rust
...only I purchase it by the 5-gal bucket,..about $35.
This stuff works better than anything I've used and it's non-acidic and non-caustic.
Also, not spoil your party, but the wheel appears to be bent. In the top photo look at the lip at the 7 o'clock position.
Last edited by wan2run; 11-17-2010 at 10:43 PM.
