Ignition Cylinder - How to remove on '75?
#1
Ignition Cylinder - How to remove on '75?
So I've searched and read a ton of ignition cylinder threads, but can't figure this out (big time newb). (couple questions here).
I've got a '75 and my key is stuck inside the ignition cylinder. Additionally, it's stuck in the ACC position, and will not go back to the off position for me to pull it out. It'll go forward and starts without issue (though I have to pull the battery becuase in the ACC position it's draining it).
I've determined I need to replace the cylinder (made sure we're in park, wiggled the gear shifter (automatic) and everything else I can figure out). However, how do I get this dang cylinder out? I'm looking in an assembly manual it tells me how to put it together, but not take it apart.
Also, what's this **** in the picture (what does it do?)?
Also also, is any ignition cylinder ok, or do you guys recommend anything specific (meaning should I order the CC or is this one on ebay fine (and have them re cut my key for it too)?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Any help is MUCH appreciated.
Thanks!
I've got a '75 and my key is stuck inside the ignition cylinder. Additionally, it's stuck in the ACC position, and will not go back to the off position for me to pull it out. It'll go forward and starts without issue (though I have to pull the battery becuase in the ACC position it's draining it).
I've determined I need to replace the cylinder (made sure we're in park, wiggled the gear shifter (automatic) and everything else I can figure out). However, how do I get this dang cylinder out? I'm looking in an assembly manual it tells me how to put it together, but not take it apart.
Also, what's this **** in the picture (what does it do?)?
Also also, is any ignition cylinder ok, or do you guys recommend anything specific (meaning should I order the CC or is this one on ebay fine (and have them re cut my key for it too)?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Any help is MUCH appreciated.
Thanks!
#2
Drifting
Aim
Pete,
You need to buy an Assembly Instruction Manual and a workshop manual for your year and there is a detailed instruction in the latter on how to do it. In short, you have to remove your steering wheel and slide a thin screwdriver into a slot in the casting. This releases a pawl that will allow you to pull your lock cylinder out.
Someone here might be able to post a photo of this.
Good luck!
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
You need to buy an Assembly Instruction Manual and a workshop manual for your year and there is a detailed instruction in the latter on how to do it. In short, you have to remove your steering wheel and slide a thin screwdriver into a slot in the casting. This releases a pawl that will allow you to pull your lock cylinder out.
Someone here might be able to post a photo of this.
Good luck!
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
#3
Race Director
That little **** is your four way flasher.
It is a good idea to get yourself some books, they will help you, start with the AIM Assembly Instruction Manual, and maybe a service manual for your year, Good luck.
It is a good idea to get yourself some books, they will help you, start with the AIM Assembly Instruction Manual, and maybe a service manual for your year, Good luck.
#5
Thanks. I've got an assembly manual, but that didn't help at all with the removal. I think a service manual is in order though.
To remove the steering wheel, should I purchase or rent a set of steering wheel removal tools or standard tools all I need?
Thanks.
#6
Race Director
All the info you need is hear to R&R your column parts
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?cat=5
Screwdriver is pointing at the black retaining tab once you get down this far
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?cat=5
Screwdriver is pointing at the black retaining tab once you get down this far
#7
All the info you need is hear to R&R your column parts
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?cat=5
Screwdriver is pointing at the black retaining tab once you get down this far
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?cat=5
Screwdriver is pointing at the black retaining tab once you get down this far
#8
I happen to like this PDF........it's for a Fiero but alot of the same concepts and design.
http://www.diyfiero.com/dropspot/Jaz...ck_Rebuild.pdf
http://www.diyfiero.com/dropspot/Jaz...ck_Rebuild.pdf
#9
Le Mans Master
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First of all, from your picture I am fairly sure that you have a standard (non-adjustable) steering column in your 1975 Vette. It is very important to describe exactly what parts are in your car.
Now, before you start tearing the steering column apart to replace the lock cylinder, let's make sure that you (and we) understand exactly what the problem is.
Now, there are five positions for your ignition key, lock cylinder, and ignition switch. First disconnect your battery. Now starting at the most clockwise position of your ignition key and coming back CCW, you have the following:
START (the key should spring return out of START), RUN, OFF, OFF-LOCK, and ACCESSORY (you will need to push in on the key and cylinder to get from OFF-LOCK to ACCESSORY). Your ignition key can only be removed from the lock cylinder in the OFF-LOCK position.
On a 1975 Corvette there is a cable coming from the transmission (either manual or automatic) that attaches to the steering column. Open the hood and look down under the brake master cylinder. You should see the very end of the steering column extending through the front of dash panel. There should be a lever sticking out of the column jacket that is pointing toward the engine.
When you shift into PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual trans) the cable should push that lever all the way to the UP position. (If you were able to look down your steering column from the driver seat, the
lever would be roughly at the 1 o'clock position when full UP.)
If the lever is in any other position than full UP, you will only be able to turn your ignition key from START, RUN, and OFF. You will not be able to rotate to OFF-LOCK or ACCESSORY and remove your key.
If the cable is not attached or the lever and cable is stuck, you need to get that lever to the 1 o'clock position in order for the ignition key to be able to rotate further to the OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY positions.
A lot of people disconnect the cable from column lever and permanetly wire the lever in the full UP position. Maybe the lever has shifted, the cable is corroded and frozen, the cable has become disconnected, etc.
Let's determine if your real problem is in the cable to steering column area (called the steering column/transmission shift interlock system) or elsewhere.
Jim
Now, before you start tearing the steering column apart to replace the lock cylinder, let's make sure that you (and we) understand exactly what the problem is.
Now, there are five positions for your ignition key, lock cylinder, and ignition switch. First disconnect your battery. Now starting at the most clockwise position of your ignition key and coming back CCW, you have the following:
START (the key should spring return out of START), RUN, OFF, OFF-LOCK, and ACCESSORY (you will need to push in on the key and cylinder to get from OFF-LOCK to ACCESSORY). Your ignition key can only be removed from the lock cylinder in the OFF-LOCK position.
On a 1975 Corvette there is a cable coming from the transmission (either manual or automatic) that attaches to the steering column. Open the hood and look down under the brake master cylinder. You should see the very end of the steering column extending through the front of dash panel. There should be a lever sticking out of the column jacket that is pointing toward the engine.
When you shift into PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual trans) the cable should push that lever all the way to the UP position. (If you were able to look down your steering column from the driver seat, the
lever would be roughly at the 1 o'clock position when full UP.)
If the lever is in any other position than full UP, you will only be able to turn your ignition key from START, RUN, and OFF. You will not be able to rotate to OFF-LOCK or ACCESSORY and remove your key.
If the cable is not attached or the lever and cable is stuck, you need to get that lever to the 1 o'clock position in order for the ignition key to be able to rotate further to the OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY positions.
A lot of people disconnect the cable from column lever and permanetly wire the lever in the full UP position. Maybe the lever has shifted, the cable is corroded and frozen, the cable has become disconnected, etc.
Let's determine if your real problem is in the cable to steering column area (called the steering column/transmission shift interlock system) or elsewhere.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; 02-06-2011 at 08:09 AM.
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AZcorvetteguy79 (04-24-2020)
#10
Thanks for the pdf Snoopy.
Jim, thanks for the explanation...and you're right. I didn't entirely explain the problem + what I did explain was wrong.
But with your help. Here's what I've got.
So my key only turns back to the OFF position (not ACC like I had thought that position is). From START, it snaps back to RUN. I can move it to OFF, but no further CCW.
My shifter is a little weird as in that I have to push it forward to start the car, it doesn't naturally rest in that full park position where the car recognizes it can turn on. So that's on my to do to fix. I thought an extension of that was the key, but even if I push the shifter forward, jiggle, whatever, no luck, key won't turn back to OFF-LOCK.
This led me to believe it was the cylinder. HOWEVER, under your recommendation I went out to look at this lever and from what I can tell, I believe it's in the 3 O'clock position (not as far up as 1, if I were to be looking down the column from the drivers seat).
Is this that lever you're referring to? It seems to be stuck where it's at, as in I cannot move it by hand up or down, and if someone moves the shift lever it doesn't affect this lever at all. Assuming this is the lever in question, now to figure out why it's stuck and how to get it to move.
Thanks for the help/diagnosis Jim!
Jim, thanks for the explanation...and you're right. I didn't entirely explain the problem + what I did explain was wrong.
But with your help. Here's what I've got.
So my key only turns back to the OFF position (not ACC like I had thought that position is). From START, it snaps back to RUN. I can move it to OFF, but no further CCW.
My shifter is a little weird as in that I have to push it forward to start the car, it doesn't naturally rest in that full park position where the car recognizes it can turn on. So that's on my to do to fix. I thought an extension of that was the key, but even if I push the shifter forward, jiggle, whatever, no luck, key won't turn back to OFF-LOCK.
This led me to believe it was the cylinder. HOWEVER, under your recommendation I went out to look at this lever and from what I can tell, I believe it's in the 3 O'clock position (not as far up as 1, if I were to be looking down the column from the drivers seat).
Is this that lever you're referring to? It seems to be stuck where it's at, as in I cannot move it by hand up or down, and if someone moves the shift lever it doesn't affect this lever at all. Assuming this is the lever in question, now to figure out why it's stuck and how to get it to move.
Thanks for the help/diagnosis Jim!
#11
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OK, so now we also are pretty sure that you have an automatic transmission.
With an automatic transmission there is a neutral safety switch inside your center console that is attached to your shifter. This switch prevents your car from starting unless you are in PARK or NEUTRAL. It must be old or out of adjustment. That is why you have to force your shifter hard into PARK to get it to start. This switch also turns on your backup lights when you shift to REVERSE.
You will need to lift out your rear center compartment box. You will find two screws (I believe) that are pointed forward that hold the rear of your console secure to the back wall behind your seats. Otherwise, the rest of the screws and stuff holding your console are pretty straight forward.
As far as your lower lever on the steering column. Yes, your picture shows the lever. There should be a cotter pin and washer that hold the end of the cable to the lever. Pull the cotter pin and washer. Disconnect the cable from the lever and try to move the lever up to the 1 o'clock position. Now see if your key can be turned to OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY. Possibly your cable is corroded and won't move. Or maybe the cable is disconnected at your transmission or shifter.
Jim
With an automatic transmission there is a neutral safety switch inside your center console that is attached to your shifter. This switch prevents your car from starting unless you are in PARK or NEUTRAL. It must be old or out of adjustment. That is why you have to force your shifter hard into PARK to get it to start. This switch also turns on your backup lights when you shift to REVERSE.
You will need to lift out your rear center compartment box. You will find two screws (I believe) that are pointed forward that hold the rear of your console secure to the back wall behind your seats. Otherwise, the rest of the screws and stuff holding your console are pretty straight forward.
As far as your lower lever on the steering column. Yes, your picture shows the lever. There should be a cotter pin and washer that hold the end of the cable to the lever. Pull the cotter pin and washer. Disconnect the cable from the lever and try to move the lever up to the 1 o'clock position. Now see if your key can be turned to OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY. Possibly your cable is corroded and won't move. Or maybe the cable is disconnected at your transmission or shifter.
Jim
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AZcorvetteguy79 (04-24-2020)
#12
OK, so now we also are pretty sure that you have an automatic transmission.
With an automatic transmission there is a neutral safety switch inside your center console that is attached to your shifter. This switch prevents your car from starting unless you are in PARK or NEUTRAL. It must be old or out of adjustment. That is why you have to force your shifter hard into PARK to get it to start. This switch also turns on your backup lights when you shift to REVERSE.
You will need to lift out your rear center compartment box. You will find two screws (I believe) that are pointed forward that hold the rear of your console secure to the back wall behind your seats. Otherwise, the rest of the screws and stuff holding your console are pretty straight forward.
As far as your lower lever on the steering column. Yes, your picture shows the lever. There should be a cotter pin and washer that hold the end of the cable to the lever. Pull the cotter pin and washer. Disconnect the cable from the lever and try to move the lever up to the 1 o'clock position. Now see if your key can be turned to OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY. Possibly your cable is corroded and won't move. Or maybe the cable is disconnected at your transmission or shifter.
Jim
With an automatic transmission there is a neutral safety switch inside your center console that is attached to your shifter. This switch prevents your car from starting unless you are in PARK or NEUTRAL. It must be old or out of adjustment. That is why you have to force your shifter hard into PARK to get it to start. This switch also turns on your backup lights when you shift to REVERSE.
You will need to lift out your rear center compartment box. You will find two screws (I believe) that are pointed forward that hold the rear of your console secure to the back wall behind your seats. Otherwise, the rest of the screws and stuff holding your console are pretty straight forward.
As far as your lower lever on the steering column. Yes, your picture shows the lever. There should be a cotter pin and washer that hold the end of the cable to the lever. Pull the cotter pin and washer. Disconnect the cable from the lever and try to move the lever up to the 1 o'clock position. Now see if your key can be turned to OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY. Possibly your cable is corroded and won't move. Or maybe the cable is disconnected at your transmission or shifter.
Jim
The culprit was the cable under the car. When you moved the shift lever the cable just bent up on itself in a U shape and didn't actually move forward and up to move the lever up into the 1 o'clock position. From the picture you can see that this cable needs replacement.
I've unhooked the cable from the lever (with the help of my g/f), she unhooked it as I lay under the car and forced the cable up. Low and behold, the lever moves to 1, and the key comes out.
So now that all that's figured out. Which option would you recommend?
1. Replacing that cable and getting it to work properly.
2. Leaving it all unhooked and as is, and permanently mounting the lever in the 1'oclock. If this is the option, any recommendation on how to get it to stay at the 1?
Thanks again for all your help. If you're ever in the Chicago area, I sure owe you a beer.
(and to think, I'm just getting started with this Vette...can't wait to get to things that are actually difficult. Ugh.)
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AZcorvetteguy79 (04-24-2020)
#13
Le Mans Master
Pete, a new cable is less than $15 and at this point replacing it should be a snap. Lube it up good and it will last another 35 years. Future owners of your classic will thank you...
GM Part Number: 3949075
Transmission/ steering column lock cable, w/automatic, 21" long. Use with 1661K-2 clips, service replacement style.
Years: 1969 - 1977
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...ock-cable.aspx
Good luck... GUSTO
GM Part Number: 3949075
Transmission/ steering column lock cable, w/automatic, 21" long. Use with 1661K-2 clips, service replacement style.
Years: 1969 - 1977
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...ock-cable.aspx
Good luck... GUSTO
#14
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That cable is part of the transmission shift/steering column interlock system.
1. It does lock your shifter when you lock your steering column which might prevent a theft.
2. It also prevents you from locking the steering wheel if the car is moving forward. With the introduction of locking steering columns in 1969, General Motors was very scared that people might (for some reason) turn off their engine while the car was moving. Now the steering wheel would also be locked and people might sue if there was an accident.
So General Motors and Saginaw Steering Gear Division came up with a system that would only allow you to lock your steering wheel when you were in PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual trans). I think that purchasing a new cable is probably your best bet. BTW, there are different cables one for automatics and one for manual trans.
I have not actually locked a shift tube in the 1 o'clock position. I have heard of people wiring the lever in the UP position.
Jim
1. It does lock your shifter when you lock your steering column which might prevent a theft.
2. It also prevents you from locking the steering wheel if the car is moving forward. With the introduction of locking steering columns in 1969, General Motors was very scared that people might (for some reason) turn off their engine while the car was moving. Now the steering wheel would also be locked and people might sue if there was an accident.
So General Motors and Saginaw Steering Gear Division came up with a system that would only allow you to lock your steering wheel when you were in PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual trans). I think that purchasing a new cable is probably your best bet. BTW, there are different cables one for automatics and one for manual trans.
I have not actually locked a shift tube in the 1 o'clock position. I have heard of people wiring the lever in the UP position.
Jim
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AZcorvetteguy79 (04-24-2020)
#15
Gusto and Jim.
Thank you for your input. Looks like I'll be purchasing a new cable (I'll make sure it's the right one, thanks for the tip Jim).
Truly thank you guys for your input.
Thank you for your input. Looks like I'll be purchasing a new cable (I'll make sure it's the right one, thanks for the tip Jim).
Truly thank you guys for your input.
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AZcorvetteguy79 (04-24-2020)
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AZcorvetteguy79 (04-24-2020)
#17
1975 corvette ignition starter switch
i took out the old switch and now i cant get the new one back in. i have tried to put it in the way i thought it came out but the rod will not go in and the wiring is blocking me from evan putting the stearing colume back up. can anyone send me a picture of a installed ignition starter switch or simething
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AZcorvetteguy79 (04-24-2020)