Left side dash panel removal
#1
Left side dash panel removal
I've gutted the whole interior of my '70, except the driver side dash panel. Removed steering column (non-telescoping) support bolts and disconnected electrical connector by the hinge pillar. Also, speedometer & tach cables are loose on engine side. Can't lower the steering column enough to remove the panel.
Do I have to open the column connection at the steering box? If so, will I have any grief reassembling it?
Do I have to open the column connection at the steering box? If so, will I have any grief reassembling it?
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi Bob,
Have you removed the bolts at the flange on the column were it goes through the firewall? They're not easy to get at.
When they're out the rag joint lets the column drop down far enough to get the pad out.
Support the column at the steering wheel end... don't let it just hang there while you work on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It's shown in UPC 4, Sheet A9 in your AIM.
Have you removed the bolts at the flange on the column were it goes through the firewall? They're not easy to get at.
When they're out the rag joint lets the column drop down far enough to get the pad out.
Support the column at the steering wheel end... don't let it just hang there while you work on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It's shown in UPC 4, Sheet A9 in your AIM.
Last edited by Alan 71; 04-18-2011 at 06:10 PM.
#3
Pro
Hi Bob,
Have you removed the bolts at the flange on the column were it goes through the firewall? They're not easy to get at.
When they're out the rag joint lets the column drop down far enough to get the pad out.
Support the column at the steering wheel end... don't let it just hang there while you work on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It's shown in UPC 4, Sheet A9 in your AIM.
Have you removed the bolts at the flange on the column were it goes through the firewall? They're not easy to get at.
When they're out the rag joint lets the column drop down far enough to get the pad out.
Support the column at the steering wheel end... don't let it just hang there while you work on what you're doing.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It's shown in UPC 4, Sheet A9 in your AIM.
#4
Racer
You didn't state if Roadster, if it is you have several support raods that also go to support column, you will need to remove them.
You will also need to disconnect tach and speedo cables at the Gage. When you get the column to drop you can access the cables and dash wiring. You need to unplug the individual light sockets and the ground plugs to tach and speedo. Last step is to bend back the wiring harness bundle straps to release the harness.
It is a miserable job, but just take your time and don't force it.
Unk
You will also need to disconnect tach and speedo cables at the Gage. When you get the column to drop you can access the cables and dash wiring. You need to unplug the individual light sockets and the ground plugs to tach and speedo. Last step is to bend back the wiring harness bundle straps to release the harness.
It is a miserable job, but just take your time and don't force it.
Unk
#5
Thanks guys. I've located the bolts. Can see that they'll be hard to get at - but hopefully not too bad. Hope that putting them back won't be any harder. Thanks for the light bulb tip. Replacing all the bulbs, fixing the hvac duct and cleaning up the wiring are the reasons I want to remove it. Otherwise the panel is in good shape.
#6
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2010
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
20 Posts
I couldn't get the last column bolt on my 68 to turn so I went through the following process which may be an option for you:
- remove the steering wheel (just so access is easier)
- remove all the screws holding the pad on
- slide the pad forwards so that the top can be popped out from under the dash pad
- now you have a bit of access room, reach behind it from the sides and underneath and remove all cables and bulb connections
- then I actually removed the tach and speedo from the rear of the panel (they have 1 screw and 3 small hex bolts/screws each, tricky to get to but can be done)
- remove the air vent from the lower right (held by 3 screws)
- once the instruments were out I found I could manouvre the panel out the gap by the door frame
Not and ideal removal option, but something to keep in mind if you get stuck like I did.
- remove the steering wheel (just so access is easier)
- remove all the screws holding the pad on
- slide the pad forwards so that the top can be popped out from under the dash pad
- now you have a bit of access room, reach behind it from the sides and underneath and remove all cables and bulb connections
- then I actually removed the tach and speedo from the rear of the panel (they have 1 screw and 3 small hex bolts/screws each, tricky to get to but can be done)
- remove the air vent from the lower right (held by 3 screws)
- once the instruments were out I found I could manouvre the panel out the gap by the door frame
Not and ideal removal option, but something to keep in mind if you get stuck like I did.
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
Posts: 38,928
Likes: 0
Received 1,468 Likes
on
1,247 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
FWIW: I was able to remove the left side from my 68 without loosening the flange bolts. Column dropped enough to allow wiggle room.
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
I've R&R'd my '69 left side dash more than half a dozen times. I never needed to totally remove the steering column. Besides the tach and speedo cables, the big hangup was the rather large plug into the headlight switch.
#9
Le Mans Master
Not the most fun project I have done on my 68 but I was able to remove mine without touching the rag joint, just the bolts under the column and inside the car at the firewall. I marked everything and took lots of pics. Am I glad I did cause 10 minutes after removing it I forgot what went where.
#10
Thanks for all the help. It's finally out. My '70 is a roadster and I did have to remove two support rods on the hinge pillar side. Removing the bolt connecting both support rods to the w/s support bracket was hardest part. The cable to the trip reset was wrapped around one of the rods!?!?!?. By the way the AIM, UPC 1, A9 does not accurately show location of support rods. Now that that's done I can get back to putting the suspension, & wheels brakes back together and maybe finally have it ready for the paint shop.
Thanks again. Happy Easter.
Thanks again. Happy Easter.