Red 69

Like many who frequent this message board, I need to do all work by myself. Sometimes it is a challenge, but the challenge can sometimes produce positive results. Bleeding brakes is probably at the top of the challenge list. Vacuum bleeder systems have always been disappointing, so I set out to try another way. After a google search, I found there were pressure bleeders out there, but they had less than stellar evaluations. In my garage I had enough scrap material to try and make my own model pressure brake bleeder. Before finishing the tool, I had spent a total of $15 . The u-joint swivel coupler with male air plug at the top and cork gasket material for the seal and four 3/8-16 wing nuts. I already had a 1/4-18 NPT tap for the swivel coupler to be threaded into the top 3/8ths steel lid. From a scrap 1 1/2 inch PVC tube I cut a shim to go into the 1" angle material.
The 3/8ths -16 threaded rod was recycled from an old project that outlived its usefulness. The photos speak for themselves.

BTW...this was the result of putting a line loc solenoid in the brake system. My compressor regulator was set at 20 psi and when opening the brake bleeder, fluid and unwanted air came out quickly. I opened and closed the bleeder a few times, allowing any trapped air a chance to work through the line. Once clear fluid ran out, I went to the next brake. Also, I use a clear tube that slips over the nipple, but after first putting a line wrench on it. The other end of my clear hose goes into a hole I drilled into the plastic lid of an instant coffee container. Make the hole a tight fit to the hose and it will stay on and not easily slide off. You can drill a second hole for a wire hangar to hold your brake fluid catch container. I always save wire coat hangars for the garage.

You will notice my swivel coupler is located over one reservoir. It is a rare occasion I need to bleed both front and rear brakes at one time. If you prefer to have pressure to both reservoirs, simply cut a notch connecting the two reservoirs under the cork gasket material. The pressure will quickly find its way into the second reservoir and pressurize both. If you just want to bleed the rear brake, simply turn the lid so the air inlet is over the rear reservoir only. Enough already...lets get to the photos:
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Note: I welded tabs not seen under the angle material to keep it square with the flat bottom clamp surface. The bottom was just scrap 3/8 ths pieces of I-beam. After using this tool, I wish I had it years ago.

boltnut

That rocks ! I'm going to try it the next time my car sits for a while.

duramaxsky

Or you could go to Motives web site and buy a bleeder and adapter for under $100. The basic bleeder comes with the adapter for your car. For not much more the one for the newer cars is available. I have one and it works great. I also have a scan tool program in my laptop that opens the ABS valves and bleeds and flushes that as well.

spinadog

Nice photos - very cool DIY.

mrvette

Yeh went nutz and didn't have to....

drill a 1/16 hole in the top of the m/cyl cover, above each section....

put on with full fluid, clamp down normally....with the rubber gasket/bladder in place....

take the air jet and blow through the holes a small amount at the time, with the caliper open, one at a time....takes two people...

CASE CLOSED.....

obviously make sure the master remains full....

Red 69

Thanks for your insightful comments! Next time I am needing to bleed brakes, I will take the time to locate a neighbor or call for someone who can help me. Then I will wrap the car and engine in plastic to protect from the brake fluid that is sure to blow back by a helper who probably doesn't have a clue about what they are doing. Building my system came as a result of past problems, but you must not have read that part of my message.

As for the other system on the market, I have researched what is out there and read comments by those who purchased and most were not favorable. My tool worked without a glitch and I expect it will last my lifetime simplifying the brake bleeding process.

This post was to share what I had found to work for me. For those who do not find any merit in the tool, you can be kind and walk away. Feel free to post your own thread on how you bleed your brakes. Good luck and much success to you!! For everyone else, thanks for looking.

69 Chevy

You used to see things like this listed under 'Home made and handy' in magazines. I often have to devise similar tools to compensate for not having another person handy to assist me.

Anyway, how did you come upon 20 psi? I would have thought a lot less pressure would have been enough.

CA-Legal-Vette

Nice job Red! This is the same way that I use my Motive bleeder. I only use the air pressure as I don't fill the reservoir with fluid. The difference is that your pressure will remain essentially constant and because of your stout fixture, you can run at 20 PSI. The Morive fixture is, by their own admission, flimsy. It'll only take 10 to 12 PSI. Not a big problem but it will take longer to bleed.

Well done

tfi racing

It's really that simple?Looks like I'll be whipping up some spare parts today and setting one one up for my race car,I just can't seem to get the pedal I like.

Red 69

Thanks...my compressor regulator printed numeric increments starting at 20 psi, I adjusted it a little under that, so around 18-20 psi. Too many times I start trials cautiously, but with the "stoutness" of my components, I didn't feel it was necessary. After done, I felt that pressure was just right for the job.

Someone asked about having enough fluid to completely run fresh fluid. I believe there is enough fluid in the reservoir to flush the front brakes with one reservoir fill. If more fluid was required, as in maybe the rear brakes, or a long box truck, more fluid might be added to the reservoir through the male plug on the swivel coupler. This could be accomplished using a plastic squeeze ketchup bottle. Monitoring the amount of fluid in the catch bottle will indicate when additional reservoir fluid is necessary. I have never done this and don't know what consequence it might have on the swivel coupler o-rings. If adding additional fluid was the plan before starting, the male air plug could be threaded into the lid directly, eliminating the swivel coupler. The coupler is there just to take stress off the air hose and in line with the compressor.

The KIS principal always made sense to me and I don't try to over think a process. Bleeding brakes always seemed to be an unnecessary two man job, or a messy frustrating one with borrowed vacuum systems. I feel I have taken the devil out of the job and made my future brake jobs a little easier. There are always more creative and innovative individuals who can make improvements, but my tool will be with me forever.

Alan 71

Hi Red,
Here's the important part of your post... " I need to do all work by myself". WELL DONE!!
From what I've read on the Forum don't the mst. cyl. 'connections' that come with the Motive need a bit of jury-rig too? I'm remembering a picture of some very large c-clamps.
Regards,
Alan

lilmonster

Here's simpler, and only cost me a new chrome cover.