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How to jack car up on 4 post lift

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Old 05-31-2011, 02:50 PM
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arcticcatmatt
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Default How to jack car up on 4 post lift

Hey guys.. buying a lift today or tomorrow. 4 post
Here is the one I am going with
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Di...ppro-park8.htm

Now the pro jack 3500 looks great here that is http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Pr...TPPROJACK-3500 but that is a whopping $600 expense. If I don't order that, how will I get vehicles jacked in the air to get wheels off? I am worried that the 4 legs of my jack stands won't all set on the ramps and 2 legs will be off the ramp. And I don't see bottle jacks small enough to go under a corvette frame. Trying to figure out options here as I do not want to spend $600 more on jacking it off the lift.

Pictures of how you do it (lift off the lift) and price of what you got would be great! Thanks!

As soon as it comes in I am installing my new headers/sidepipes, and 5 speed TKO-600.. can't wait
Old 05-31-2011, 04:15 PM
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69427
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I welded up something similar for $25 worth of steel material. I also use my stock scissor jack on it.

I prefer to spend my $600 on things other than jacks.
Old 05-31-2011, 05:11 PM
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7T1vette
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There are bottle jacks that will fit under the Corvette frame (between the lift rails and the car frame); or you can use a small floor jack if you just need to do one wheel at a time. If you use bottle jacks, make certain that you have non-raised wheels chocked in front and in back to prevent car movement.
Old 05-31-2011, 11:28 PM
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arcticcatmatt
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Thanks for the replies. Any more? I am making the purchase tomorrow for sure.
I do like the fact that it is alot more stable on the pro-jack than it would be on bottle jacks. I plan on tearing apart the rear end of my car next year and redoing everything (paint, shocks, check trailing arms). Right now I need to cut the cross member and remove the transmission and get my new transmission installed.. then headers and sidepipes. Don't need the projack for that..
Old 06-01-2011, 08:20 AM
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MN80Vette
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I use some heavy walled steel 2x4s I from the "remnant" pile at a local steel store. The beams are about the width of the car. I had four 4x6 blocks of wood leftover from a landscaping project.

When I need all four's off the ramps, I raise the car high enough to put the steel beams across the ramps, put jack stands under the beams and the blocks of wood on the beams at the lift points on the car, and lower the lift until the tires are off the ramps.

(BTW, I have a Backyard Buddy 7000 lb lift with a full 6' under.)
Old 06-01-2011, 08:48 AM
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RonR80
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I did the same, using some HILLBILLY set up ,I had a pro welder help me make some stands and using hydraulic jacks, Till I had a brand new C-6 on there and I said to myself, this is stupid and unsafe, so I bought the right set up and I feel way better and safer, mine cost $1500 , rolling jack , your choice,Ron
Old 06-01-2011, 09:51 AM
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0Fred@ReverseLogic
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Default Buyers Products WC1467A wheel chocks - FREE S&H

If you are looking for a good wheel chock at reasonable price we offer the Buyers Products WC1467A reinforced rubber wheel chock for as low as $12 each in sets of four (including shipping).

Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If you use bottle jacks, make certain that you have non-raised wheels chocked in front and in back to prevent car movement.
Old 06-01-2011, 09:53 AM
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Golden
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Can I ask why you're going for the 4 post ramp rather than the 2 post?

The 2 post is far better for most jobs.

The 4 post does offer some advantages but for the vast majority of jobs on any car the 2 post is the better option.
Old 06-01-2011, 10:08 AM
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7T1vette
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2-post...better??? That's a matter of opinion. I can move my 4-post anywhere in the garage; it stands on its own without being bolted down; I can work on the entire drivetrain without having to work around lift arms; etc. etc. I have no problem with 2-post lifts for those that want/prefer them, but they're not "better" IMO.
Old 06-01-2011, 10:59 AM
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arcticcatmatt
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Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic
If you are looking for a good wheel chock at reasonable price we offer the Buyers Products WC1467A reinforced rubber wheel chock for as low as $12 each in sets of four (including shipping).
Sold! I will order them Thanks

Originally Posted by Golden
Can I ask why you're going for the 4 post ramp rather than the 2 post?

The 2 post is far better for most jobs.

The 4 post does offer some advantages but for the vast majority of jobs on any car the 2 post is the better option.
Thats a matter of opinion of course. My garage is small and I own cavalier/cobalt/silverado/vette/snowmobile/2 motorcycles. I am out of room and I am not building a new garage since I plan on moving in 5 years. I need to get the vette up in the air all winter so I can park under it and not hit my door on my truck. Also, my concrete is not thick enough nor is it perfect. If it was ONLY for working on vehicles, I would go 2 post.
Old 06-01-2011, 11:33 AM
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I'm with 7t1vette, 4 post is the way to go , storage for the winter and any kind of work , the rest of the time , I had a 2 post lift when I worked at Sears , love it but for home , it's movable and real conveniant.Ron
PS ok I don't agree with the two sleds I'm a SKI-DOO rider!!!!!
Old 06-01-2011, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
2-post...better??? That's a matter of opinion. I can move my 4-post anywhere in the garage; it stands on its own without being bolted down; I can work on the entire drivetrain without having to work around lift arms; etc. etc. I have no problem with 2-post lifts for those that want/prefer them, but they're not "better" IMO.
I didn't say 2 post lifts were 'better' I said they were better for most jobs.

I'd agree with you that if you want a lift for additional storage and something that's portable then a free standing 4 post is the way to go.

Regarding working on the car itself, it's not a matter of opinion, it is easier to do more jobs on a 2 post than a 4 post.
Old 06-01-2011, 12:50 PM
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The 4 post works great for me. I have the Pro Jack and it's a good investment. The price has gone up on them a lot lately though. Every once in a while you can find them for sale used. I use the Pro Jack to lift it up and then set the front end on jack stands sitting on the jack plate that comes with the lift. Then I slide the Pro Jack back to the rear and lift it at the frame and let it sit on there. That gets all 4 wheels off the ground in minutes. Mine is sitting like that right now with all the wheels off doing a Wilwood brake install and trailing arm/wheel bearing rebuild. I don't have any pics with me right now...but hopefully you can get the idea.

I have a bottle jack that sits on the jack plate and it fits under everything easily if needed.

JIM
Old 06-01-2011, 02:30 PM
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Rally68
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I have the same lift, you are going to love it. I also can't bring myself to spend the money for the Pro Jack...
I have a small Craftsman trolley jack (these small jacks are also available at auto parts stores, often paired with a set of jack stands). If the car is centered on the lift and you are careful you can easily jack up the front wheels one side at a time with the jack remaining safely on the runways.

You can just barely see the jackstands an plywood pads in this picture:


I also cut sheets of plywood to fill the jack try to a height even with the runways; this allows me to jack the rear end from the center, and also allowed me to use the jack to support the A-arms during spring replacement. The downside to this approach is that the jack tray is heavy as h#ll.

Another mod I made, you can kind of see in the pictures, is to cut the tongues off the ramps and bolt in some heavy-duty hinges. You can then drill and tap the ramp brackets for two bolts per side; that way the bolts pinch the ramp tongues in place against the end of the runways, but you can still remove the ramps quickly if you need to. You'll see what I mean when you put yours together. I oriented the hinges so that the ramps fold just past vertical and stay up on their own. The ramps are too heavy to take on and off every time you use the lift, but they are also too dangerous to leave hanging off the end with the lift in the air--they don't hang down, they basically stick straight out, and those corners are sharp...ask me how I know.

Enjoy the lift!


Chris
Old 06-01-2011, 05:47 PM
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my 76 ray
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I tried a lot of alternatives and ended up buying the Pro Jack. However, there are some things it doesn't even do. My Jeep Wrangler frame is narrower than the Pro Jack so I can't use it to lift the Jeep by the frame.

If I ever hit the Lottery big, I think I'll buy another Pro Jack. That way, I'll be able to get all four wheels up in the air on most vehicles in a few minutes.
Old 06-02-2011, 10:48 AM
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great respones especially Rally68.. Thanks to all!
I called this morning and bought the lift AND the pro-jack.. I can't believe I spent that much on the pro-jack but whatever.. I will have it forever and it will save alot of screwing around all the years I will own it I supposed. Comes in 1 hr away from me on Monday and I am taking my car trailer to go pick it up. Going to work on the wifes daily driver then mine then the corvette! Can't wait. ! Rally68 I am very interested in your mods, I may be messaging you for more pictures! If you have them send them to me on here in a PM or I can give you my email address
Old 06-02-2011, 03:48 PM
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While I am making my job easier.. I just called them back and added this to my order http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/1-...k-p/ht0304.htm
Old 06-02-2011, 05:00 PM
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Once you have the lift set up and use the pro lift you will be happy you spent the money. I debated spending the cash and found out it was the only way to go! Congradulations on the investment....
Old 06-02-2011, 05:11 PM
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Rally68
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Originally Posted by arcticcatmatt
Rally68 I am very interested in your mods, I may be messaging you for more pictures! If you have them send them to me on here in a PM or I can give you my email address
No problem, enjoy the new lift.

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