C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

how to pick a clutch and pressure plate?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-28-2011, 12:45 PM
  #1  
arcticcatmatt
Racer
Thread Starter
 
arcticcatmatt's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: ny
Posts: 345
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default how to pick a clutch and pressure plate?

I have had this question in my tko install thread for a few days but I don't think many people are seeing it so I want to ask it in this specific thread to read opinions.

I need to buy a new pressure plate and clutch disc. I think the flywheel is going to be saved. Only issues I noticed before I pulled the stuff was
  1. clutch pedal harder to depress than stock
  2. clutch pedal vibrated when not depressed, kinda moved up and down very small amount while motor running
  3. clutch only disengaged the last 1/8" of stroke, pedal had to go to floor in order to shift gears without grinding
The photos below are what I removed if it is of any reference. I see in order to spec what I need to order, knowing the torque is a requirement. I don't know what my torque at the crank to tranny is but the specs of my setup is 350 with 330hp heads and a B&M 144 blower that is said to add 100-125 hp.



Old 07-28-2011, 01:13 PM
  #2  
gkull
Team Owner
 
gkull's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 1999
Location: Reno Nevada
Posts: 21,775
Received 1,341 Likes on 1,066 Posts

Default

I replied to old post. I use the DFX. It has a very light petal pressure. I drilled a hole lower on my Z-bar so it would take less petal travel to disengage the clutch. It's like an inch of movement in - out I set the throw out bearing to like .040 - .060 so it has very little free play. My Sparco racing seat is mounted flat on the floor and all the way against the battery box. So my feet are nearly straight forward. I just operate the gas, brake, & clutch with my feet rocking on my heels.

Flywheels can be resurfaced. Modern clutches are just so easy to operate that I have never felt the need to go hydraulic assisted.

The only thing better than the DFX for holding big power and slicks is going to twin disk setups.
Old 07-28-2011, 09:43 PM
  #3  
arcticcatmatt
Racer
Thread Starter
 
arcticcatmatt's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: ny
Posts: 345
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Thanks, man that DFX is expensive.

I just found the flywheel that I just removed. Its a hays 10-130.. 30 lb steel flywheel http://store.prestoliteperformance.c...hevy-1746.html

Damn thats an expensive flywheel! I am researching now what different weights do and if this is the appropriate weight for street use. I thought there would be more interest in this stuff from more people.
Old 07-29-2011, 12:51 AM
  #4  
gkull
Team Owner
 
gkull's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 1999
Location: Reno Nevada
Posts: 21,775
Received 1,341 Likes on 1,066 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by arcticcatmatt
Thanks, man that DFX is expensive.

I just found the flywheel that I just removed. Its a hays 10-130.. 30 lb steel flywheel http://store.prestoliteperformance.c...hevy-1746.html

Damn thats an expensive flywheel! I am researching now what different weights do and if this is the appropriate weight for street use. I thought there would be more interest in this stuff from more people.
I have a machined to 22 pound SFI billet steel flywheel. Started out as 30# 11 inch tko600.

Gearing and motor TQ determine what flywheel weight you need. Ya, and what you are trying to do. Clutch kits determine the abuse of what they can handle. good stuff can take on 100,000+ miles if you know how to drive.

I've ripped the springs out of cheap stuff in the past in another one of my cars on a hard launch with wheel hop
Old 07-29-2011, 08:33 AM
  #5  
69 Chevy
Melting Slicks
 
69 Chevy's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I've read your description, looked at your pics. But you didn't exactly say what problems you're trying to correct. So, in these trying economic times, get both the flywheel and pressure plate blanchard ground to remove the cracked/overheated surfaces. Replace the disc, pilot bushing and throwout bearing. Reinstall and happy motoring.
Old 07-29-2011, 11:23 AM
  #6  
Gordonm
Race Director
 
Gordonm's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Forked River NJ
Posts: 19,593
Received 754 Likes on 464 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by arcticcatmatt
Thanks, man that DFX is expensive.

I just found the flywheel that I just removed. Its a hays 10-130.. 30 lb steel flywheel http://store.prestoliteperformance.c...hevy-1746.html

Damn thats an expensive flywheel! I am researching now what different weights do and if this is the appropriate weight for street use. I thought there would be more interest in this stuff from more people.
That is quite expensive for a steel flywheel. I paid about 350 for my Fidenza 15 pound aluminum flywheel. I have driven the lightweight flywheels now for a couple of years and would not go back to a heavy 30 pound wheel. I have used a CF dual friction for a few years and it has taken everything I can throw at it. As George said though dont go cheap it is not worth it.
Old 07-31-2011, 05:14 PM
  #7  
arcticcatmatt
Racer
Thread Starter
 
arcticcatmatt's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: ny
Posts: 345
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Well the machine shop was giving me crap about my flywheel. They think one or two of the holes were helicoiled before so they sent me somewhere else that was going to re-helicoil the holes, rebalance, and resurface. I didn't want to deal with all that so I ordered a new hays 10-130 30lb steel flywheel, centerforce dual friction pressure plate and clutch, the alignment piece they sell, and a bunch of other stuff I needed. Cost me a chunk of change but oh well.. performance isn't cheap.

I looked around at the aluminum fidenza 15lb and I didn't see any SFI rating and I read something on centerforces website that says do not use the dual friction with any sort of alum flywheel.
Old 08-01-2011, 08:24 AM
  #8  
69 Chevy
Melting Slicks
 
69 Chevy's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

They think one or two of the holes were helicoiled...
They think?

So in the end you didn't pick anything different. Will the new parts be balanced or installed as is?
Old 08-01-2011, 08:30 AM
  #9  
jackson
Le Mans Master

 
jackson's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Posts: 7,739
Received 628 Likes on 556 Posts

Default

contact Tom or his son Adam at Tadco
http://www.straightdrive.com/

equipment from Zoom, former employees and one still is.

funny, a few years back they built a clutch for a gent in Alaska ... for an arctic cat! Tey can & do build clutches for just about anything. Give 'em a call; easy to talk with. They are a real mom & pop shop. Son Adam did work for Petty.
Old 08-02-2011, 10:13 AM
  #10  
arcticcatmatt
Racer
Thread Starter
 
arcticcatmatt's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: ny
Posts: 345
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 69 Chevy
They think?

So in the end you didn't pick anything different. Will the new parts be balanced or installed as is?
Nope. The setup worked worked great with no chatter and handled the power fine. I did however take the flywheel to a machine shop yesterday that does flywheels all the time as they specialize in automotive parts. He said the holes were never helicoiled and were fine, napa was wrong. So he is resurfacing the old flywheel for me and running a tap thru the holes to make sure they are 100%. The bad part is, I took napa's word and ordered a NEW hays 10-130 sfi approved flywheel that has already shipped. So I am going to sell the used flywheel that is getting resurfaced and will be good as new. Only reason I am selling it is I have a new one coming in that I already paid for and don't want to pay shipping to return it to summit.
Old 08-02-2011, 12:56 PM
  #11  
roscobbc
Drifting
 
roscobbc's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: East London/SW Essex UK
Posts: 1,390
Received 98 Likes on 83 Posts

Default

I just 'bit the bullet' with my 496 stoker and fitted Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, one of their steel flywheels, new throw-out bearing and center bush in crank. Pedal pressure is less than stock big block clutch.
Old 08-02-2011, 01:02 PM
  #12  
69 Chevy
Melting Slicks
 
69 Chevy's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by arcticcatmatt
Nope. The setup worked worked great with no chatter and handled the power fine. I did however take the flywheel to a machine shop yesterday that does flywheels all the time as they specialize in automotive parts. He said the holes were never helicoiled and were fine, napa was wrong. So he is resurfacing the old flywheel for me and running a tap thru the holes to make sure they are 100%. The bad part is, I took napa's word and ordered a NEW hays 10-130 sfi approved flywheel that has already shipped. So I am going to sell the used flywheel that is getting resurfaced and will be good as new. Only reason I am selling it is I have a new one coming in that I already paid for and don't want to pay shipping to return it to summit.
But Blanchard grinding the used flywheel will not change the balance. It will still match the other engine parts if they were all balanced as a unit. Not so for the new flywheel.
Old 08-02-2011, 01:33 PM
  #13  
arcticcatmatt
Racer
Thread Starter
 
arcticcatmatt's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: ny
Posts: 345
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

^ But this is an internally balanced engine.

Originally Posted by roscobbc
I just 'bit the bullet' with my 496 stoker and fitted Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, one of their steel flywheels, new throw-out bearing and center bush in crank. Pedal pressure is less than stock big block clutch.
Nice all the same stuff I've ordered except I didn't go with the centerforce brand flywheel. My throwout bearing was SHOT. Wondering the difference I will feel.
Old 08-02-2011, 06:39 PM
  #14  
roscobbc
Drifting
 
roscobbc's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: East London/SW Essex UK
Posts: 1,390
Received 98 Likes on 83 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by arcticcatmatt
^ But this is an internally balanced engine.


Nice all the same stuff I've ordered except I didn't go with the centerforce brand flywheel. My throwout bearing was SHOT. Wondering the difference I will feel.
Check-out 'Z' bar linkage and pivot points they can suffer wear.
Old 08-03-2011, 07:13 AM
  #15  
69 Chevy
Melting Slicks
 
69 Chevy's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by arcticcatmatt
^ But this is an internally balanced engine.
Yes, I realize it is an internal balance engine.

I thought, perhaps, you had the whole reciprocating assembly...pistons, rods, crank, etc... balanced at a machine shop. Or your new flywheel, like my McLeod Racing billet steel flywheel (and pressure plate), requires machine shop balancing before assembly. Obviously not. Carry on.

Get notified of new replies

To how to pick a clutch and pressure plate?




Quick Reply: how to pick a clutch and pressure plate?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:01 PM.