Please help with squeaking suspension.....!
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Please help with squeaking suspension.....!
Couple of yrs ago I installed a VBP suspension kit with Bilstein Sports... Lately it has really started to squeak. Yes it has poly bushings, but I lubed them heavily with Energy Suspensions Formula 5 lube. I MAY NOT have lubed the Bilstein bushings (cant recall). I did not grease the coil spring seats.
The squeaking starts after driving several miles (maybe 10-15). Quiet when I start out... Squeaks with up and down movement. Mainly the front.
I shot everything with WD40 and that seemed to help briefly, now squeaking like heck again..
3000 miles on the suspension....
Any suggestions???
Thanks!
The squeaking starts after driving several miles (maybe 10-15). Quiet when I start out... Squeaks with up and down movement. Mainly the front.
I shot everything with WD40 and that seemed to help briefly, now squeaking like heck again..
3000 miles on the suspension....
Any suggestions???
Thanks!
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#6
Drifting
Vader Vette
Couple of yrs ago I installed a VBP suspension kit with Bilstein Sports... Lately it has really started to squeak. Yes it has poly bushings, but I lubed them heavily with Energy Suspensions Formula 5 lube. I MAY NOT have lubed the Bilstein bushings (cant recall). I did not grease the coil spring seats.
The squeaking starts after driving several miles (maybe 10-15). Quiet when I start out... Squeaks with up and down movement. Mainly the front.
I shot everything with WD40 and that seemed to help briefly, now squeaking like heck again..
3000 miles on the suspension....
Any suggestions???
Thanks!
The squeaking starts after driving several miles (maybe 10-15). Quiet when I start out... Squeaks with up and down movement. Mainly the front.
I shot everything with WD40 and that seemed to help briefly, now squeaking like heck again..
3000 miles on the suspension....
Any suggestions???
Thanks!
Ok your shiny part of the shock spray it with white lithium grease and go for a ride. if the noise stops go buy some new shocks because you will be oiling them every ride if you dont .
Here is a noise you country boys will be familiar with.Ok its a squeak not a squeal.
#7
Melting Slicks
I had posted some time back about poly bushings.
I stumbled on this, because I was trying to go to solid bushings. The thing that happend whas that once I was going to drive the solid bushings in, the cross-shaft would first turn freely, but when the bushing was driven in further, it binded.
One of the things that made it impossible with the stock type suspension to use solids were the cross-shaft on both upper and lower control arms that were not totally machined straight. They are cast units that are roughly machined.
Furthermore, the holes in the A-arms seldomly line up perfect.
What this does is create a misalignment error between the cross-shafts and the bushing. This causes the bushing to get point loading in certain spots and causes it to bind.
With a solid bushing that has no give, there is no forgivness, so you can't even get the bushing on.
With poly's the same thing happens, only polys is a bit more forgiving in this area than steel. However the misalignment error stays and over time the grease gets forced out and the squeeks start to come.
Rubber has a lot of 'give' since the bushings work on shear. This problem doesn't exist with rubber.
The additional problem with poly is that the shaft or internal metal bushing has to rotate on the poly. Poly is a sticky plastic, which again causes squeeks.
After a lot of headaches, I finally went back to rubber. I figured that unless, you built perfectly machined parts ($$$$) it was just never going to work right.
The advantage of rubber is also there is no maintenance.
I threw out all my poly's (not even driven any miles on them) and put rubber back. I even changed they eye on my VBP upper A-arms to use rubber.
Good luck
I stumbled on this, because I was trying to go to solid bushings. The thing that happend whas that once I was going to drive the solid bushings in, the cross-shaft would first turn freely, but when the bushing was driven in further, it binded.
One of the things that made it impossible with the stock type suspension to use solids were the cross-shaft on both upper and lower control arms that were not totally machined straight. They are cast units that are roughly machined.
Furthermore, the holes in the A-arms seldomly line up perfect.
What this does is create a misalignment error between the cross-shafts and the bushing. This causes the bushing to get point loading in certain spots and causes it to bind.
With a solid bushing that has no give, there is no forgivness, so you can't even get the bushing on.
With poly's the same thing happens, only polys is a bit more forgiving in this area than steel. However the misalignment error stays and over time the grease gets forced out and the squeeks start to come.
Rubber has a lot of 'give' since the bushings work on shear. This problem doesn't exist with rubber.
The additional problem with poly is that the shaft or internal metal bushing has to rotate on the poly. Poly is a sticky plastic, which again causes squeeks.
After a lot of headaches, I finally went back to rubber. I figured that unless, you built perfectly machined parts ($$$$) it was just never going to work right.
The advantage of rubber is also there is no maintenance.
I threw out all my poly's (not even driven any miles on them) and put rubber back. I even changed they eye on my VBP upper A-arms to use rubber.
Good luck
#8
Race Director