Steering Wheel removal on 1978
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Steering Wheel removal on 1978
Guys,
thought I'd try to pick your brains before I started the task..
OK,
Problem: When I move the turn signal lever upwards, to signal a right turn, it kinda "rotates" a little bit, then moves up fine.
It does not do this when I pull down for a left hand turn.
Cause: In talking to my local 'Vette parts supplier, he suggested it could be the turn signal lever that connects to the column and a grub screw(?) may have come loose, thus it moves until it binds, then all OK.
Remedy: To be sure and to truly identify the cause, I need to remove the steering wheel...
Question: As this is a 1978 Pace car with tilt/tele, is there any trick/hints you could provide to make this a simple task?
ie A simple step-by-step with any "look outs" would be helpful...
I'm assuming, I'll need a puller...anything else in terms of special tools/methods?
Cheers
thought I'd try to pick your brains before I started the task..
OK,
Problem: When I move the turn signal lever upwards, to signal a right turn, it kinda "rotates" a little bit, then moves up fine.
It does not do this when I pull down for a left hand turn.
Cause: In talking to my local 'Vette parts supplier, he suggested it could be the turn signal lever that connects to the column and a grub screw(?) may have come loose, thus it moves until it binds, then all OK.
Remedy: To be sure and to truly identify the cause, I need to remove the steering wheel...
Question: As this is a 1978 Pace car with tilt/tele, is there any trick/hints you could provide to make this a simple task?
ie A simple step-by-step with any "look outs" would be helpful...
I'm assuming, I'll need a puller...anything else in terms of special tools/methods?
Cheers
#2
Le Mans Master
I have lots of tools/pullers around here, including a reasonable JC Whitney universal harmonic balance puller kit. Works good for pulling steering wheels too. Wasn't expecting much at first for $20 bucks, but has hardened bolts, and probably 20-30 people have borrowed it. Still looks like new.
#3
Le Mans Master
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On a 1978 T&T column the turn signal lever "plugs-in" to a dimmer pivot that is part of the steering column. Look carefully at the area where the lever meets the steering column. See if you can determine if the looseness is because the lever itself is damaged (i.e. the looseness is actually in the lever not in the hole in the dimmer pivot where the lever plugs in.)
Here are complete instructions on removing your steering wheel, telescope lock, horn parts, locking plate, turn signal switch, ignition lock cylinder, and finally the turn signal switch housing where the dimmer pivot is located.
You will need two special tools. A steering wheel puller:
and a locking plate compresser tool.
Here are the locations for the instructions and pics:
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=991
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ev13my2010.pdf
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ev02oc2010.pdf
Here are complete instructions on removing your steering wheel, telescope lock, horn parts, locking plate, turn signal switch, ignition lock cylinder, and finally the turn signal switch housing where the dimmer pivot is located.
You will need two special tools. A steering wheel puller:
and a locking plate compresser tool.
Here are the locations for the instructions and pics:
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=991
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ev13my2010.pdf
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ev02oc2010.pdf
#5
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: Saginaw Michigan
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Here is one more tip:
If your steering column has been undisturbed through all of these years you will most likely find that the c-clip retainer is going to break into several pieces when you try and pry it off the steering shaft. It is the tan part in the picture below. You will need it to reassemble your steering column.
The part is available through GM dealers as 7808385 and it is available a bit cheaper through most Corvette suppliers as well.
I AM SORRY TO REPORT THAT I CAN NO LONGER FIND 7808385 ON THE GMPARTSDIRECT.COM WEBSITE. This typically means that GM has removed it from their Service Parts inventory. It is still available from many Corvette suppliers such as Willcox (780838), Zip (SC-517), etc.
The part is quite important for two reasons:
One, it prevents the c-clip from working its way out of the upper steering shaft slot.
Two, it prevents the big telescope spring from touching metal parts of the steering column and causing the horn to blow continuously. The spring should only rest on the three brass horn contacts that are part of the cancelling cam that extend up through the toothed locking plate.
Jim
If your steering column has been undisturbed through all of these years you will most likely find that the c-clip retainer is going to break into several pieces when you try and pry it off the steering shaft. It is the tan part in the picture below. You will need it to reassemble your steering column.
The part is available through GM dealers as 7808385 and it is available a bit cheaper through most Corvette suppliers as well.
I AM SORRY TO REPORT THAT I CAN NO LONGER FIND 7808385 ON THE GMPARTSDIRECT.COM WEBSITE. This typically means that GM has removed it from their Service Parts inventory. It is still available from many Corvette suppliers such as Willcox (780838), Zip (SC-517), etc.
The part is quite important for two reasons:
One, it prevents the c-clip from working its way out of the upper steering shaft slot.
Two, it prevents the big telescope spring from touching metal parts of the steering column and causing the horn to blow continuously. The spring should only rest on the three brass horn contacts that are part of the cancelling cam that extend up through the toothed locking plate.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; 09-05-2011 at 09:16 AM. Reason: Update 7808385 information
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Jim,
thanks for the follow up.
My 'Vette guy mentioned it may be the screw/pin that holds a "U" shaped part of the lever in place, thus when I pull up, it rotates before it binds and then works as normal..
As only one side is affected, because the pin/screw hasn't come all the way out, it doesn't happen when I pull down.
Does this sound reasonable???
Also, is it possible that I could remove the lower part of the plastic surround, rather than digging all the way down the (complicated) many parts that are in the way before I get to the lever?
Perhaps that way, I can push the pin/screw the screw in place again?
Cheers
thanks for the follow up.
My 'Vette guy mentioned it may be the screw/pin that holds a "U" shaped part of the lever in place, thus when I pull up, it rotates before it binds and then works as normal..
As only one side is affected, because the pin/screw hasn't come all the way out, it doesn't happen when I pull down.
Does this sound reasonable???
Also, is it possible that I could remove the lower part of the plastic surround, rather than digging all the way down the (complicated) many parts that are in the way before I get to the lever?
Perhaps that way, I can push the pin/screw the screw in place again?
Cheers
#7
Melting Slicks
I did have to disassemble far enough to remove the shaft of the turn signal arm from this block, IIRC.
Last edited by larrywalk; 09-05-2011 at 08:47 PM.
#8
Le Mans Master
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On a 1978 column the turn signal lever plugs into a plastic pivot that is attached to the left side of the steering column housing. Look to see if the looseness is right at the connection of the lever to the pivot.
From the pivot there is an arm with a roller that extend from the pivot to the actual turn signal switch. It is called a crossover arm.
You cannot see the whole arm until you remove the steering wheel, hub, and locking plate. The arm attaches to the turn signal switch with a single screw. I suggest using Locktite on the screw threads to help prevent the screw from backing out. You can see the head of that screw by rotating the steering shaft so that the hole in the locking plate is about the 10 o'clock position. NOTE, that the hole in the plate in the cutaway drawing above (and also the photo of the column with retainer) is at 6 o'clock.
That crossover arm screw has a special flat head. If a typical screw is used in its place you may find that the head of the screw can touch the horn ground track on the underside of the cancelling cam and your horn will blow.
Jim
From the pivot there is an arm with a roller that extend from the pivot to the actual turn signal switch. It is called a crossover arm.
You cannot see the whole arm until you remove the steering wheel, hub, and locking plate. The arm attaches to the turn signal switch with a single screw. I suggest using Locktite on the screw threads to help prevent the screw from backing out. You can see the head of that screw by rotating the steering shaft so that the hole in the locking plate is about the 10 o'clock position. NOTE, that the hole in the plate in the cutaway drawing above (and also the photo of the column with retainer) is at 6 o'clock.
That crossover arm screw has a special flat head. If a typical screw is used in its place you may find that the head of the screw can touch the horn ground track on the underside of the cancelling cam and your horn will blow.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; 09-05-2011 at 02:09 PM.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I had the same problem with my '78. As I found, the shaft of the turn signal arm was loose in its holder - therefore, when signalling for a right hand turn, the shaft would rotate within the metal block that held it. Rather than replace the shaft and the block (requires a lot of dis-assembly), I used an anaerobic locker (~Locktite) to fix the shaft securely in the block. It feels better than new without any slop!
I did have to disassemble far enough to remove the shaft of the turn signal arm from this block, IRRC.
I did have to disassemble far enough to remove the shaft of the turn signal arm from this block, IRRC.
thanks for the input, how is the arm held in place in the metal block?
From what you describe, it sounds like it is a press fit?
With your fix, how much dis-assembly was required?
Cheers
#10
Melting Slicks
Sorry, but I can't recall the details as it was some time ago.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the input, spoke to my 'Vette guy again (international calls are $$$, but it's worth it for the 'Vette ) and he assures me there is no shortcuts - just gotta carefully work my way down disassembling the steering column to get access to the problem area.
He seems to think there is a pin holding the block that the lever inserts into that may have come loose and I should use some loctite or similar to ensure it doesn't come out again.
He seems to think there is a pin holding the block that the lever inserts into that may have come loose and I should use some loctite or similar to ensure it doesn't come out again.