I guess this is a technical question-Gaskets
10-30-2011, 09:39 PM
#1
I guess this is a technical question-Gaskets
What do you believe is the best way to gasket certain mating surfaces. The ones I'm thinking of right now are the timing cover and the oil pan. Options might be something like this, plain gasket, cork, paper, neoprene, gasket with permatex, gasket with RTV, or just plain RTV, this would be in a C-3 vintage car.
Thanks,
Dave.
Thanks,
Dave.
10-30-2011, 10:57 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2004
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2023 C7 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2018 C3 of Year Finalist
I used the FelPro one piece to do the oil pan on my F150. Sealed it right up. We'll be doing my boy's Dakota oil pan this weekend with a Felpro one piece. 
10-31-2011, 02:36 AM
#5
Safety Car
I've got away with using cheap gaskets then I've got nailed with using them also at bad times.
So I try to use Felpro at all cost especially head gaskets!
I like cork valve cover gaskets, I seal them to the head only and not the valve cover, but timing chain, water neck and oil pan, I coat both sides with ultra copper but I have heard they stopped making it so I might have to adapt to the ultra black type.
Head gaskets get noting but two dry surfaces.
So I try to use Felpro at all cost especially head gaskets!
I like cork valve cover gaskets, I seal them to the head only and not the valve cover, but timing chain, water neck and oil pan, I coat both sides with ultra copper but I have heard they stopped making it so I might have to adapt to the ultra black type.
Head gaskets get noting but two dry surfaces.
Last edited by Tim H; 10-31-2011 at 02:43 AM.
10-31-2011, 12:26 PM
#6
Racer
11-01-2011, 08:39 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
To answer your question as simply as possible...
Anymore I use only one kind of sealer on engines...Permatex GREY Hi-Temp RTV. It is FAR SUPERIOR to ANYTHING else that is commonly commercially available. If I was into stealing from my employer I would use MIL-S-8802 polysulfide aircraft sealant but that is not commercially available. Permatex Grey RTV is the next best thing that I have found-I'm 53 and I have built a few motors over the years. I have tried them ALL, and this stuff is the most versatile, effective, multi-purpose engine gasket sealer that I have yet found. On oil pans, I glue the rail gaskets to the block with a thin bead of 3M yellow weatherstrip cement after carefully trimming the ends with a razor blade to make sure that the end seals fit properly, then put a small bead of Grey RTV all around the pan itself, then mount the pan. As for valve covers, I glue the (cork) gaskets onto the [straight,flat] covers with 3M weatherstrip cement and install them dry onto the heads just snugly enough to ensure there are no gaps, which can be checked with a .0015" feeler gage. For intake manifolds, a very thin bead of Grey RTV works well around the port openings and water passages, and a large bead at either end takes the place of the rubber or cork end seals that normally come with the kit. Water pump, timing cover, Tstat housing, just use the Grey RTV on both sides of the gasket. The one-piece pan gaskets are nice, but I've had very good success using this method...as you can see there are a number of opinions here, but in my experience this is the best way to keep the two biggest leak sources-oil pan and valve covers-under control.
Anymore I use only one kind of sealer on engines...Permatex GREY Hi-Temp RTV. It is FAR SUPERIOR to ANYTHING else that is commonly commercially available. If I was into stealing from my employer I would use MIL-S-8802 polysulfide aircraft sealant but that is not commercially available. Permatex Grey RTV is the next best thing that I have found-I'm 53 and I have built a few motors over the years. I have tried them ALL, and this stuff is the most versatile, effective, multi-purpose engine gasket sealer that I have yet found. On oil pans, I glue the rail gaskets to the block with a thin bead of 3M yellow weatherstrip cement after carefully trimming the ends with a razor blade to make sure that the end seals fit properly, then put a small bead of Grey RTV all around the pan itself, then mount the pan. As for valve covers, I glue the (cork) gaskets onto the [straight,flat] covers with 3M weatherstrip cement and install them dry onto the heads just snugly enough to ensure there are no gaps, which can be checked with a .0015" feeler gage. For intake manifolds, a very thin bead of Grey RTV works well around the port openings and water passages, and a large bead at either end takes the place of the rubber or cork end seals that normally come with the kit. Water pump, timing cover, Tstat housing, just use the Grey RTV on both sides of the gasket. The one-piece pan gaskets are nice, but I've had very good success using this method...as you can see there are a number of opinions here, but in my experience this is the best way to keep the two biggest leak sources-oil pan and valve covers-under control.
11-02-2011, 12:44 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
I use Permatex "Right Stuff" which isn't silicone based but a rubber RTV compound. The RS comes in black or grey colors, I recently used it on a differential overhaul of a 12 bolt and it went back into service, 30 minutes after laying the beads down. It has been about a month .and no leaks so far. Right Stuff is AMAZING! RTV silicone would have never worked that fast.
11-02-2011, 10:48 AM
#10
Drifting
Those hold the pan in place while you get the bolts on. Helpful so the pan/gasket do not twist out of place.
Rubber and head gaskerts I put on clean/dry surface. paper/cork get a very small amount of ultra silicone on both sides then installed.
12-21-2011, 02:14 PM
#12
Heel & Toe
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I am doing my intake manifold gaskets today and have had mixed messages about putting RTV on with my new Felpro gaskets around the water ports and bolt holes.
Sorry for pirating this thread but i didnt want to start a new one just for this question. I have the black RTV that came with the gasket kit from Summit Racing.
Sorry for pirating this thread but i didnt want to start a new one just for this question. I have the black RTV that came with the gasket kit from Summit Racing.
12-21-2011, 03:19 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
New threads are OK 
FelPro gaskets don't require sealant around the water passages or the bolt holes. The bolts do require thread sealant. The FelPro likely didn't come with valley seal gaskets, but if it did you don't want to use them - just a bead of RTV with a "goober" of RTV at the 4 corners of the gaskets - then smooth the seam with a wet finger for a professional finish.
I put a very, very light smear of RTV around the water ports on the heads...but honestly it's just an old habit...
FelPro gaskets don't require sealant around the water passages or the bolt holes. The bolts do require thread sealant. The FelPro likely didn't come with valley seal gaskets, but if it did you don't want to use them - just a bead of RTV with a "goober" of RTV at the 4 corners of the gaskets - then smooth the seam with a wet finger for a professional finish.
I put a very, very light smear of RTV around the water ports on the heads...but honestly it's just an old habit...
