wan2run

When I removed the body I was able to count the shims at each mount.
They were as follows -

Driver 1 - 2 shims
Driver 2 - 3 shims
Driver 3 - 4 shims
Driver 4 - 2 shims

Passenger 1 - 5 shims
Passenger 2 - 5 shims
Passenger 3 - 3 shims
Passenger 4 - 2 shims

Theoretically, I should be able to remove the lowest number of shims possible from all mounts and still have the same fit front to back and right to left, correct? In other words, I should be able to remove 2 shims from each mount and still have the same setup...

At that point I would have -

Driver 1 - 0 shims
Driver 2 - 1 shims
Driver 3 - 2 shims
Driver 4 - 0 shims

Passenger 1 - 3 shims
Passenger 2 - 3 shims
Passenger 3 - 1 shims
Passenger 4 - 0 shims

Doable?

dgood

I don't think so. You will be lowering the whole thing a little bit and it may effect something (I don't know what) but they were there for a reason. Mine were the same as yours and I put the same number of new ones back in.

Legacy Stables

you would be lowering the clearance of several things on your car. think about how much room you will lose between your gas tank and deck, your tires and wells, and a bunch of other stuff I may not know about. if you are cool with this it shouldn't be a problem but cracked Fiberglas may be in your future if your not careful

GT's 78

I'm not saying yea or nay but I dont think 1/8" is going to effect much on clearance issues. It would be interesting to know the factory procedure for shiming the car. Mine had 2 at the most in some places and none at others so your logic is good in my opinion. Was the main reason for shimming for door alignment or other things? Anybody?

Alan 71

Hi,
My understanding is that each frame was measured in a jig long before it ever met the body. The frame was marked with the number of shims required to bring the mounts to the desired dimensional specification.
Although we use the body shims to help with gaps, the production line workers didn't.
Regards,
Alan

GT's 78

Thanks Alan, So it was more to bring the frame mounting surfaces to all level so to speak. So in therory the OP could take two shims out all the way around and still be OK, only lowering the body 1/8". Right. I know I would respect your opinion and I'm sure the OP would as well.

Alan 71

Hi,
I think your logic is correct.
I'm really not sure where, if anywhere, that 1/8" would cause problems.
There certainly are pretty 'loose' tolerances in the non mechanical parts of these cars.
Regards,
Alan

Red 69

wan2run, your theory in stacking shims makes for good logic, but in practice may fall short. The shims in my 69 were so rusted they mostly fell apart, so I couldn't measure the stack thickness. This required me to shim from scratch. I started with one mount having no shim and worked the others up to where the body was level and door gaps were correct. This made the body a little lower than from the factory and with no resulting problem. You will not know if you have it properly shimmed until the bolts are tightened. On my first try, my door gaps closed up and required readjustment. When finished, there were many fewer shims than from the factory and without any issues. I don't see where there is anything to be gained with fewer shims, so if you know what was factory, I'd stick with it. I found the aftermarket shims were a different thickness than used at the factory, so measurement isn't completely accurate. Don't overlook SS fender washers if you need a thinner shim that in your pack.

wombvette

I agree, there would probably not be much difference, but, if the factory thought it was necessary, why not just put them back. It does affect things like radiator height, hood clearances, bumper and bracket fit, front heights, tunnel clearances, etc. There was some reason the factory thought it necessary, and the shims are cheap and not seen, so why would you want to eliminate them?

GT's 78

Red is right. In the end you want the doors to shut properly and body gaps to be right. So you could to start with your shim count minus 2 shims as a starting point, then bolt it down. If everything is good all is well. If not shim to correct.

GT's 78

To shim or not to shim that is the question to be asked

GT's 78

Here's another variable, if you take the doors off does this throw all aligning with shims out the window?

wan2run

This is how I was thinking. I don't see where the 1/8th would make a difference if done all the way around. Door gaps shouldn't change if they were correct when I removed the body.

The reason I began thinking this way is that the body mount kit I purchased came with 16 shims. I would need to buy more 10 more in order to be the same as the factory. Not a big deal obviously, but it did get me thinking.