Can I install engine with bellhousing attached
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Can I install engine with bellhousing attached
Can I install engine with bellhousing attached in to my car without removing my radiator, or do I need to take off the bellhousing for ease of installation.
Ideally I would like to fit the engine and bell as one unit.
Ideally I would like to fit the engine and bell as one unit.
#2
Yes. Removal of engine and trans mated has been done plenty of times. You need to have the hoist in the right spot and you need to be able to adjust the angle of the engine and trans.
#3
Team Owner
I never remove the hood or radiator. You can leave the bell. Its just more of a PITA.
Have your motor mounts on the motor. When you get the motor in and down over the frame sides. Put the long bolts through, but not tightened down. Place a padded jack under the rear of the oil pan and keep the rear of the motor at a more downward angle to stab the tranny in
Do not ever use the 4 tranny bolts to pull the tranny in If you have the clutch splines centered with the tool and the tranny in "N" jocky it back and forth and it will slide into the pilot bearing. When the tranny is flush with the bell housing then put in the 4 big bolts.
I don't have a tranny jack I just use a second floor jack and an extra set of my arms to stab the tranny in. Once all bolted in, install the shifter and jack the tranny up into place and then install the cross member. To get the correct drive shaft and rear end alignment. My cross member required about 3 CM of spacer. I did the trial vibration testing with stacks of big washers until the angle was right and then I machined an aluminum block and rubber isolator pad
Have your motor mounts on the motor. When you get the motor in and down over the frame sides. Put the long bolts through, but not tightened down. Place a padded jack under the rear of the oil pan and keep the rear of the motor at a more downward angle to stab the tranny in
Do not ever use the 4 tranny bolts to pull the tranny in If you have the clutch splines centered with the tool and the tranny in "N" jocky it back and forth and it will slide into the pilot bearing. When the tranny is flush with the bell housing then put in the 4 big bolts.
I don't have a tranny jack I just use a second floor jack and an extra set of my arms to stab the tranny in. Once all bolted in, install the shifter and jack the tranny up into place and then install the cross member. To get the correct drive shaft and rear end alignment. My cross member required about 3 CM of spacer. I did the trial vibration testing with stacks of big washers until the angle was right and then I machined an aluminum block and rubber isolator pad