dragvette 6link vs Autofab 4-link
10-28-2009, 02:16 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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dragvette 6link vs Autofab 4-link
well as some of you guys might know im looking to upgrade my suspension my 82. got it dynoed the other day at lopers and its a 505hp to the wheels. however im having a hard time considering what suspension is right for me. i did some searches but i still have some questions to ask you guys. this is a street strip car. i want it to own the streets and do well on the strip. and i also want to throw a straight axle on it. so what way is the best way to go?
thanks everyone!!!!!!!!
thanks everyone!!!!!!!!
10-28-2009, 03:08 PM
#2
If you want a straight axle in the car, I believe the 4 link it the only way to do it. The drag link setup is for the original IRS differential I believe.
I think you would have to decide if you want to stay with an IRS or not. You can easily order all of the beefed up components to make the IRS live with that power and everything will just bolt in. The Autofab kit does require some fabrication and welding do.
I think you would have to decide if you want to stay with an IRS or not. You can easily order all of the beefed up components to make the IRS live with that power and everything will just bolt in. The Autofab kit does require some fabrication and welding do.
10-28-2009, 06:06 PM
#3
if you want the IRS gone then yes the autofab is the only kit i know of... my car is a street strip car and is a monster on the street.... have not taken it to the track yet but think it will do even better there.... the best thing is not worring about spitting out an axle or anything..... the auto fab setup is a very nice unit
10-28-2009, 06:37 PM
#4
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I got scared into the autofab setup when someone posted a pic of twisted splines from a stub axle and said they were only pushin 400 hp (mightve been bluzman who posted it, cant remember). that, and to beef up the IRS is a lot lore expensive. the dragvette 6 link will correct your geometry, but if you hook up you'll be cleaning your diff off the track.
10-28-2009, 07:50 PM
#5
Pro
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Here are some strong 3.5 Aluminum halfshafts that I will putting in over the winter..Dontov motor here in Texas also makes some great stuff!!
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p3_1...re+Information
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p3_1...re+Information
10-28-2009, 08:08 PM
#6
Yep, that was my old motor just a 350 with good heads and cam and a 4.56 rear gear. I twisted one one time and the other another time. I will say again, if you're not going to go drag racing with tires that will hook up good, you can just add a few heavier duty parts and a heavy spring and get by probably. I drag race almost every weekend and am very competitive. I have 600hp at the motor now and will be adding 200 more with nitrous this winter, so I need the insurance and adjustability of the 4 link and straight axle. Plus gears are waaaay cheaper.
10-28-2009, 11:45 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
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My crygenically treated spindle snapped in half with street tires on my 2nd run...This is why I went with the 4-link. With the 6-link setup don't you have to readjust your camber each time to get it to go from straight line to bendy track? I had a Dragvette 6-link in the box, but sold it, so I never used it.
An old guy at the track told me that one time he saw a half shaft let lose and sever a guys lower spine...
http://www.facebook.com/editalbum.ph...&id=1310677231
An old guy at the track told me that one time he saw a half shaft let lose and sever a guys lower spine...
http://www.facebook.com/editalbum.ph...&id=1310677231
Last edited by CorvetteDave01; 10-28-2009 at 11:49 PM.
10-29-2009, 05:08 AM
#9
yes a bone stock IRS will fail under high horse power applications, but with upgraded 31 spline inner and 32 spline outer axles, 12 bolt conversion, dragvette 6 link and beefy halfshafts, the suspension will work quite well. I did my own labor in setting up my suspension and doing my own home built 12 bolt set up, so that saved me a ton of money. My suspension has been able to cut low 1.3 sixty foots and hold up to enough power to do several mid 8 second passes in a 3200 lbs car. The best thing I love about the IRS is how stable it is on the top end of the pass. The car is so easy to make corrections at high speeds.
10-29-2009, 10:06 AM
#11
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yes a bone stock IRS will fail under high horse power applications, but with upgraded 31 spline inner and 32 spline outer axles, 12 bolt conversion, dragvette 6 link and beefy halfshafts, the suspension will work quite well. I did my own labor in setting up my suspension and doing my own home built 12 bolt set up, so that saved me a ton of money. My suspension has been able to cut low 1.3 sixty foots and hold up to enough power to do several mid 8 second passes in a 3200 lbs car. The best thing I love about the IRS is how stable it is on the top end of the pass. The car is so easy to make corrections at high speeds.
1. Do you drive your car on the street as well?
2. If so, did you notice any handling improvements after the upgrades?
3. Is that a Tom's 12 bolt you put together?
4. How much HP are you putting to your IRS?
5. How are you bushed back there? Rubber, poly, combo of both?
6. Got any installation pictures? I would love to see them.
Last edited by SharkZilla; 10-29-2009 at 10:07 AM. Reason: Correction
10-29-2009, 01:00 PM
#12
Answers
1. Yes I do street drive it, it is a 93 octane motor when I am not spraying the crap out of it, but I dont daily drive it, only on short fun cruises.
2. Well I have a spool in my rear differential, so that really hurts the turn radius of the car, but when its going down the track, it is really stable and responds well to adjustments when going down the track. A limited slip differential or a locker will offer better street handling and make slow tight turns much less of a bear to do. The six link kit itself, I would say improves the rear suspension handling significantly, and gives you very good adjustability options and will hold a camber setting well.
3. I basically bought the ring and pinion from tom's differentials ($420) and bought a 31 spline strange spool for a 12 bolt ($150) and hogged out the the inside of the stock housing until it fit the ring and spool, then set it up, like a regular 12 bolt. I used vansteel 31 spline inner axles and 32 spline outer axles. I didnt need to use c clips or anything to retain the inner axles because the halfshafts and trailing arms do a fine job at that.
4. My motor has about 750-800 hp because it goes 10.00-9.90's on motor in a 3200 lbs car. I then spray it with two stages of nitrous to push it into the mid 8's. about a additional 500 hp or so.
5. I eliminated all the rubber bushings and have everything solidly bolted to the frame. big thick bolt with a large thick washer up forward of the diff, and big aluminum disks on the wings of the diffrential with grade 8 bolts.
6. I got a casualty picture of a twisted 3" halfshaft, but it shows exactly how well the 6 link kit was designed to promote saftey. The shaft twisted and pulled out of the differential and the saftey loops that are part of the design of the 6 link held the spinning broken halfshaft in place and no further damage occured. I was able to safely slow down and get to the side of the track with out much issue. I upgraded to bigger stronger 3 1/2" steel shafts and it has not ever failed since.
1. Yes I do street drive it, it is a 93 octane motor when I am not spraying the crap out of it, but I dont daily drive it, only on short fun cruises.
2. Well I have a spool in my rear differential, so that really hurts the turn radius of the car, but when its going down the track, it is really stable and responds well to adjustments when going down the track. A limited slip differential or a locker will offer better street handling and make slow tight turns much less of a bear to do. The six link kit itself, I would say improves the rear suspension handling significantly, and gives you very good adjustability options and will hold a camber setting well.
3. I basically bought the ring and pinion from tom's differentials ($420) and bought a 31 spline strange spool for a 12 bolt ($150) and hogged out the the inside of the stock housing until it fit the ring and spool, then set it up, like a regular 12 bolt. I used vansteel 31 spline inner axles and 32 spline outer axles. I didnt need to use c clips or anything to retain the inner axles because the halfshafts and trailing arms do a fine job at that.
4. My motor has about 750-800 hp because it goes 10.00-9.90's on motor in a 3200 lbs car. I then spray it with two stages of nitrous to push it into the mid 8's. about a additional 500 hp or so.
5. I eliminated all the rubber bushings and have everything solidly bolted to the frame. big thick bolt with a large thick washer up forward of the diff, and big aluminum disks on the wings of the diffrential with grade 8 bolts.
6. I got a casualty picture of a twisted 3" halfshaft, but it shows exactly how well the 6 link kit was designed to promote saftey. The shaft twisted and pulled out of the differential and the saftey loops that are part of the design of the 6 link held the spinning broken halfshaft in place and no further damage occured. I was able to safely slow down and get to the side of the track with out much issue. I upgraded to bigger stronger 3 1/2" steel shafts and it has not ever failed since.
10-29-2009, 05:02 PM
#14
Team Owner
I also run the 12-bolt Tom's setup with 30/31 spline axles and the thick wall half shafts.. I've launched with the transbrake off a 150 shot (with approx. 700 engine HP) and no rear end breakage so far.. I think that below 1000 HP, there is no need to go with a solid axle as Tom's setup will easily hold up to that power level if the strongest setup is used.. I went with the 1480 series half shaft u-joints too which are virtually indestructable.. Rear suspension has not been any concern since switching to Tom's setup.. I run a regular 4-link IRS setup.. I don't use the extra upper control arms.. They really have no function other than safety and if you run 1480 series u-joints and thick wall chromoly half shafts, you really don't need them.
10-29-2009, 06:32 PM
#15
Like i said i love my set up and to be honest part of the reason i did not go with the toms unit is i needed EVERYTHING..... at that point it was cheaper to buy the kit i did. and for what i do (straight line stuff) it is a better setup as you can change instant center and get a better handle on the suspension IMHO
10-29-2009, 06:56 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Answers
1. Yes I do street drive it, it is a 93 octane motor when I am not spraying the crap out of it, but I dont daily drive it, only on short fun cruises.
2. Well I have a spool in my rear differential, so that really hurts the turn radius of the car, but when its going down the track, it is really stable and responds well to adjustments when going down the track. A limited slip differential or a locker will offer better street handling and make slow tight turns much less of a bear to do. The six link kit itself, I would say improves the rear suspension handling significantly, and gives you very good adjustability options and will hold a camber setting well.
3. I basically bought the ring and pinion from tom's differentials ($420) and bought a 31 spline strange spool for a 12 bolt ($150) and hogged out the the inside of the stock housing until it fit the ring and spool, then set it up, like a regular 12 bolt. I used vansteel 31 spline inner axles and 32 spline outer axles. I didnt need to use c clips or anything to retain the inner axles because the halfshafts and trailing arms do a fine job at that.
4. My motor has about 750-800 hp because it goes 10.00-9.90's on motor in a 3200 lbs car. I then spray it with two stages of nitrous to push it into the mid 8's. about a additional 500 hp or so.
5. I eliminated all the rubber bushings and have everything solidly bolted to the frame. big thick bolt with a large thick washer up forward of the diff, and big aluminum disks on the wings of the diffrential with grade 8 bolts.
6. I got a casualty picture of a twisted 3" halfshaft, but it shows exactly how well the 6 link kit was designed to promote saftey. The shaft twisted and pulled out of the differential and the saftey loops that are part of the design of the 6 link held the spinning broken halfshaft in place and no further damage occured. I was able to safely slow down and get to the side of the track with out much issue. I upgraded to bigger stronger 3 1/2" steel shafts and it has not ever failed since.
1. Yes I do street drive it, it is a 93 octane motor when I am not spraying the crap out of it, but I dont daily drive it, only on short fun cruises.
2. Well I have a spool in my rear differential, so that really hurts the turn radius of the car, but when its going down the track, it is really stable and responds well to adjustments when going down the track. A limited slip differential or a locker will offer better street handling and make slow tight turns much less of a bear to do. The six link kit itself, I would say improves the rear suspension handling significantly, and gives you very good adjustability options and will hold a camber setting well.
3. I basically bought the ring and pinion from tom's differentials ($420) and bought a 31 spline strange spool for a 12 bolt ($150) and hogged out the the inside of the stock housing until it fit the ring and spool, then set it up, like a regular 12 bolt. I used vansteel 31 spline inner axles and 32 spline outer axles. I didnt need to use c clips or anything to retain the inner axles because the halfshafts and trailing arms do a fine job at that.
4. My motor has about 750-800 hp because it goes 10.00-9.90's on motor in a 3200 lbs car. I then spray it with two stages of nitrous to push it into the mid 8's. about a additional 500 hp or so.
5. I eliminated all the rubber bushings and have everything solidly bolted to the frame. big thick bolt with a large thick washer up forward of the diff, and big aluminum disks on the wings of the diffrential with grade 8 bolts.
6. I got a casualty picture of a twisted 3" halfshaft, but it shows exactly how well the 6 link kit was designed to promote saftey. The shaft twisted and pulled out of the differential and the saftey loops that are part of the design of the 6 link held the spinning broken halfshaft in place and no further damage occured. I was able to safely slow down and get to the side of the track with out much issue. I upgraded to bigger stronger 3 1/2" steel shafts and it has not ever failed since.
Last edited by L79racer; 10-29-2009 at 07:01 PM.
10-29-2009, 10:25 PM
#18
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Thanks for the 411 Tumarr. I plan on doing more of a street/strip build of about 525 - 550hp and don't want to give up on the IRS for handling reasons. My biggest concern was how this stuff holds together over 500hp and the safety of keeping this contained. With the info you provided, I am confident that I can bullet proof the IRS in my car.
I have to say, I have heard of breaking U joints and twisting 17 spline axles but have never seen a half shaft pretzelized like that. The next weakest link I guess was the 3 inch half shaft. I heard the 3.5 inch shafts fit kind of tight in there (loops) but good to know everything has enough clearance.
If it wasn't for the upper control shaft and safety loops that could have been a lot more messy. Thanks again.
I have to say, I have heard of breaking U joints and twisting 17 spline axles but have never seen a half shaft pretzelized like that. The next weakest link I guess was the 3 inch half shaft. I heard the 3.5 inch shafts fit kind of tight in there (loops) but good to know everything has enough clearance.
If it wasn't for the upper control shaft and safety loops that could have been a lot more messy. Thanks again.
10-30-2009, 08:13 AM
#19
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These days it's hard to argue with the 9" setups. The parts are easy to get. When I did mine, I wanted to stay with an IRS.
I ended up copying some folks from way back in the 70's and built a Dana 60 IRS out of a Hemi center section. I used 3.5"x.134 wall shafts with 1480 joints along with Tom's outer stubs.
Haven't touched it since installing it!
It's just one of those things where you bite the bullet if you don't want to be messing with it all of the time.
JIM
I ended up copying some folks from way back in the 70's and built a Dana 60 IRS out of a Hemi center section. I used 3.5"x.134 wall shafts with 1480 joints along with Tom's outer stubs.
Haven't touched it since installing it!
It's just one of those things where you bite the bullet if you don't want to be messing with it all of the time.
JIM
10-30-2009, 09:54 AM
#20
Drifting
Hey... I run a dragvette setup... 4 link. But I am on Drag radials with Th350 no brake and about 500hp now. Never had issues with my old LSX and my rearend.
We will see how she does with the 418ci and 3500 stall on the drag radials in a few weeks.
Personally... I would like to stick with the IRS and go 12 bolt with big axles when ready. just to keep the street/stock vette look and handling.
We will see how she does with the 418ci and 3500 stall on the drag radials in a few weeks.
Personally... I would like to stick with the IRS and go 12 bolt with big axles when ready. just to keep the street/stock vette look and handling.
