Double_0_7

I just replaced the alternator, so the problem isn't that. Battery can be charged by jumper cables, works while connected to the car for stuff like radio, gages, windows, etc. Battery won't charge off its own engine. By time I turn the car off, the battery is already dead. I don't think anything is draining it, because I charged the battery, left and came back, then started the car a while later. While the engine is still running, I can watch the battery charge needle move to the peg...

Any ideas?

R. Bruno

Assuming the alternator is good which by no means is assured if it is rebuild, then it sounds as if the battery is no good. If the battery is dead, the alternator will work hard to try to charge it (hence the overcharging indicated by your guage.) Replace the battery or at least pull it out and bring it to a parts store for a test. Good luck :cheers:

rollavette71

What "peg" does the needle of your gauge go to? And is this a voltmeter or an ammeter? And have
you cleaned the battery terminals? Checked the battery ground connection under the car and
the connection at the starter?

Double_0_7

Sorry, double post... :nonod:


[Modified by Double_0_7, 9:15 PM 5/28/2002]

Double_0_7

Sorry, got busy at work...

voltmeter

Should have been clearer, the needle just goes to dead gradually. I didn't think it could be the wires or contacts, because everything works except the charger. I called the local vette restoration place. She said she was to busy to help me, but suggested looking at the cables themselves. I wasn't sure that could be the problem either, because I always assumed that if the wiring from the car to the battery was bad, nothing electrical would work at all rather than just not taking a charge. I wasn't sure if the battery was bad because when I jump it with my truck, it lasts almost as long as you would expect a charged battery to last. Is any of this true, or are my assumptions way off base?

Man, I have a lot to learn...
Thanks for the help...

rollavette71

When you say the "needle goes to dead," do you mean the voltage reading decreases
as the engine runs? If so, I would start with the simple stuff first... by cleaning your terminals
and connections. More than once I have fixed cars where the battery connection is just good
enough to run the radio, etc. but not sufficient to support the amperage required to turn the
starter (due to crud, etc. built up on the terminals). Are you sure the battery goes dead?
Did you put a voltmeter on the battery? ( Directly on the battery posts themselves, not
on the "connectors" on the posts.) If the battery is charged, it will read over 13 volts.

Double_0_7

I'll have to check it when I get home. Thanks for the suggestions.

tunedport78

This happend to me a while back. turned out to be a generator idiot light bulb was missing. If I didn't witness it myself I wouldn't believe it either.
It's in the upper part of the center console if you have a 78-82. I don't know what year you have
Heres a scan from my electrical troubleshooting manual. Read the second paragraph very closely


hope this helps
Vic

Double_0_7

O.K.
Changed the alternator everything was still dead. Took it to local hole-in-the-wall shop, they told me I had bad wires and fixed it for next to nothing. Then when I was testing the car's new master cylinder, which by the way didn't add brake pressure, most of the power features stopped working. Headlights still open, but not light up. Radio backlight is on, but radio not functioning. Windows don't go up or down. Oil gage is fine, but voltmeter is stuck at around 7.5 volts, which isn't true because the car cranks just fine. Is it likely I blew a fuse, or did they do something wrong? I knew the battery was bad anyway, so after this problem started I went and bought a new battery. The problem didn't go away, but the alternator and battery work like a charm.

BTW, got the battery from Walmart like you guys suggested. It was 25 bucks cheaper than anywhere else. And found all my radio equipment for 10-20 less per item than I paid at best buy last night. :cool:

Time to return some stuff to best buy.


[Modified by Double_0_7, 11:40 PM 5/30/2002]

R. Bruno

What wires did the "hole in the wall" shop replace?

Double_0_7

They changed a few wires coming off the alternator. The car doesn't have the stock wiring harness, so I was thinking if they weren't careful they could have shorted something.

I checked, the fuses aren't blown, but I haven't looked deeply under the hood to follow every wire the previous owner installed.

R. Bruno

yOU MAY WANT TO GET AN ASSEMBLY iNSTRUCTION MANUAL (AIM) FOR THE CAR IF YOU DO NOT ALREADY HAVE ONE.

Double_0_7

What stores generally carry them, or are they all online? The guy I got the car from gave me a haynes manual, but that thing sucks.

Also, My mom can get virtually any tool I need from work, what would I need to find this problem myself? I'm guessing a multi-meter, and wrenches, but what else?

Thanks...
007

R. Bruno

You can get the AIM from ZIP or any of the supply houses.

Double_0_7

I found an aim for 21.95 at the local vette shop. Unless someone says it's a bad price, I'll pick it up after work. Anybody have a thought on what tools I'll need?

R. Bruno

21.95 for an AIM is very fair. The AIM will come in handy again and again so it is a good investment. The reason I suggested it was that you said it doesn't have the stock wiring harness. The AIM shows wiring harnesses under the hood so at least you will get an idea of how it should look and where it runs. If you suspect the harness, you may want to order a new one and replace the Bubba job. Beyond that, someone will have to give you more expert advice on finding your problem. :cheers:

Double_0_7

I called the local vette shop, and they said to check the fusible wiring at the starter. He said if that was okay, to check the 6 wire connector near the near the fusible wiring. Is that going to be in the AIM? Does anyone have a picture of what this stuff looks like?