1979 power steering assist cylinder???
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
1979 power steering assist cylinder???
Last year I installed a new control valve because of leakage and stiff steering and sadly it's still been stiff. Was wondering if the assist cylinder could be the cause? I removed the castle nut on the old one and started the engine, when I looked at the cylinder piston I noticed it closed up into the cylinder but didn't come back out as I turned the steering wheel...is this wrong or is it bad? Is there a way to test the assist cylinder for proper function? Thanks Ed
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
After installing the control valve I never messed with the assist cylinder because it never pulled the steering wheel in either direction so I assumed it was good. So (to center) do I remove the castle nut on the assist cylinder at the frame and proceed the centering process? Thanks Ed
#4
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok I centered the control valve, it wasn't out too much so that's good now even though the steering is still kind of stiff and not much play in it. I did notice the top adjustment screw on the gear box was showing a good 4 threads hmmm...instead of 3. Thanks again for your help ED
#9
Leave your steering box alone. pull the cap on the pump, start your engine ,look down inside the pump, if you can see the pump metal impeller spinning, add fluid, if the impeller is covered with fluid but the fluid doesn't appear to be moving very fast, might need to rebuild or replace. pump has a few rubber o-rings in it , if those are gone, it wont leak but you wont get good pressure and you may have pieces of o-ring plugging things up
#10
Melting Slicks
Just spit-ballin' here, but now that we can assume the valve is OK, and if you've taken Alaska's advice and the pump checks out; are all the steering components properly greased and nothing binding?
Also you say the steering is stiff. Is it stiff turning left? right? both ways?
Let us know, the more info the better.
Also you say the steering is stiff. Is it stiff turning left? right? both ways?
Let us know, the more info the better.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Just spit-ballin' here, but now that we can assume the valve is OK, and if you've taken Alaska's advice and the pump checks out; are all the steering components properly greased and nothing binding?
Also you say the steering is stiff. Is it stiff turning left? right? both ways?
Let us know, the more info the better.
Also you say the steering is stiff. Is it stiff turning left? right? both ways?
Let us know, the more info the better.
#13
Melting Slicks
Ed, as we centre in on the pump, are you hearing the pump "labour" when you turn the steering wheel? if so, is it when the car is moving or stationary?
#14
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2001
Location: North Easton Mass
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Unbolt the piston at the frame connection, start the engine and turn the wheel side-to-side, front end jacked up. If the piston doesn't move freely or not at all it is bad. Curiously the 79 basket case that I had steered so hard that there was a 'bang' in the front end when you turned the wheel enough. The power steering ram was the cause.
Rick B.
Rick B.
#15
I completely rebuilt all of the power steering parts and replaced the hoses on mine, except the pump, still had hard steering , replaced the pump, that fixed mine, not sayin it will fix yours, but it worked on mine. Then I converted to the borgy setup and sold the oe setup to another member for less than core including the pump and gear box. To many moving parts. not advertising for the borg. if I'd had the funds I would've went to rack and pinion. hope this helps
#16
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok after removing the cap and starting I feel like I only have "just movement" I mean it's not like it's really sloshing around plus with tires on the ground and start turning you can hear a faint straining noise, not loud, so who knows what it could be at this point ED
#19
Team Owner
The power steering cylinder is rarely the cause for steering problems...unless the rod is bent. Of course, it can leak at the exit end of the rod (seal problem) or the ball stud can wear out. Otherwise, there is almost nothing in that part which could cause your problem.
The most likely causes are: #1) a problem with the control valve; #2) bad P/S pump.
I know that you just rebuilt your valve, but there could have been some problem with the assembly. But, I suspect that your pump is the problem here. To know for sure, you could measure output pressure. [Testing method shown in Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual]
The most likely causes are: #1) a problem with the control valve; #2) bad P/S pump.
I know that you just rebuilt your valve, but there could have been some problem with the assembly. But, I suspect that your pump is the problem here. To know for sure, you could measure output pressure. [Testing method shown in Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual]
#20
Melting Slicks
Ok, just checked Pep Boys website. Remanufactured PS pump $46.99 with a $14.00 core. Looks like you reuse your reservoir, which makes sense. Might as well take a chance Ed for that money.......but all avenues seem to head in that direction.