Fuel Line for fuel injection
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Pinellas Park FL
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fuel Line for fuel injection
Getting ready to convert to fuel injection, I would like to replace my fuel lines. I know solid line is the best way to go but since the body is on the frame, I don't think I will be able to bend stainless around the frame the way the original lines were run. What are my alternatives? Looking for advice here since im not an expert on fuel systems.
Thanks in advance
Ron
Thanks in advance
Ron
#2
Instructor
what you puttting in.
I have a simmilar question, from a body off. I am replacing all fuel lines with the stainless armored.
I am looking at putting a ls2 or ls3 engine in. So since starting from scratch, what should i put and install on the car.
76 model.
Sorry for hijack but i think the answer might be the same.
I have a simmilar question, from a body off. I am replacing all fuel lines with the stainless armored.
I am looking at putting a ls2 or ls3 engine in. So since starting from scratch, what should i put and install on the car.
76 model.
Sorry for hijack but i think the answer might be the same.
#3
Race Director
I used the factory steel line for my feed. Replaced the hoses with FI rated (high pressure) hose.
For the return I used 5-ft sections of 3/8" brake line. They have fittings on both ends, so I connected them together using a brass splice fitting. I was able to run them along the driver's side frame rail without removing the body.
For the return I used 5-ft sections of 3/8" brake line. They have fittings on both ends, so I connected them together using a brass splice fitting. I was able to run them along the driver's side frame rail without removing the body.
#4
Burning Brakes
IMO the more solid line the better. You can add flex lines at both ends. The trouble you save on bending you spend on clamping and supporting for a full length flex line. And any flex is going to be shorter lived than the solid. You could even buy pre-formed solid lines and then cut them short and add flex for some custom applications. As to the flex parts, if you go with braided stainless, get Teflon ($) lined to get longer life and less chance of fuel permeation (smell). If you are putting in late model injection, you could even use the OEM nylon flex lines. I would not recommend "rubber" even injection rated hose for a long term setup.
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Pinellas Park FL
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I noticed the F.A.S.T EZ EFI kit comes with a roll of push lock #6 fuel line. However when I checked into this its not certified for fuel. Is anyone useing this? I assume this is the teflon stuff people have talked about. What sort of life expectancy should be expected from the teflon line? I dont want to put something in that ill be changing in 2 or 3 years.
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Pinellas Park FL
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ZWEDE,
what did you use for the supply line and did you run it down the drivers side or the passanger side. I like the idea of using brake line for the return.
what did you use for the supply line and did you run it down the drivers side or the passanger side. I like the idea of using brake line for the return.
#8
Team Owner
I have had DPFI on my car running ~45 lbs since '95 when I bought it....
using the stock maybe OEM for all I know, 3/8 OD supply line, and the stock 5/16 OD return line to tank....
pump is on rear frame rail held in with a rubber wrap around and a single hose clamp filter is on the suck side.....I use the RED marked FI fuel hose rated at 200 psi in back, and got away with it up front too for a long while with ordinary hose clamps.....but as years went by, I got into using FI hose that is double wrapped and modern fuel rated from a local insustrial HOSE POWER supply house, they have enough hose to hose anyone for anything....prices are actually cheep, so that not a cut on them over money......
So I use the industrial hose up front where the heat and fire hazards are....with FI clamps from them also....but they sell the same clamps at the parts houses these daze.....
using the stock maybe OEM for all I know, 3/8 OD supply line, and the stock 5/16 OD return line to tank....
pump is on rear frame rail held in with a rubber wrap around and a single hose clamp filter is on the suck side.....I use the RED marked FI fuel hose rated at 200 psi in back, and got away with it up front too for a long while with ordinary hose clamps.....but as years went by, I got into using FI hose that is double wrapped and modern fuel rated from a local insustrial HOSE POWER supply house, they have enough hose to hose anyone for anything....prices are actually cheep, so that not a cut on them over money......
So I use the industrial hose up front where the heat and fire hazards are....with FI clamps from them also....but they sell the same clamps at the parts houses these daze.....
#9
Burning Brakes
Just check to make sure you are within the pressure limits of the lines. If I remember the F.A.S.T is ~45psi, the LSX is ~60psi. And remember depending on what pump you use and where you place you regulator, pressures could be significantly higher in some parts of the system.
#10
The ORIGINAL and bestest
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Toronto Ontario
Posts: 10,009
Received 234 Likes
on
143 Posts
Toronto Events Coordinator
I used as much ss hardline as possible. I already had 3/8" ss feed and 1/4" return lines installed when I did the body-off restoration. When I did the efi conversion a few years later, I had a vendor make me a pre-bent ss 3/8" return line. I removed the 4 passenger side body bolts and jacked up the passenger side of the body about 2" off the frame, and I was fairly easily able to get the line in place in one piece.
If you don't want to do what I did, I would still suggest you use as much hardline as possible. I also suggest avoiding multiple pieces joined together.
Compared to ss hardline, regular steel hardline is pretty easy to bend, and it is available in natural or zinc plated finish. You can buy it bulk in 25' coils to avoid mutiple pieces. I believe with someone helping you, you should be able to get it up and over the rear frame kickup.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220138/
Aluminum tubing is even easier to bend, and is also available in bulk. I personally would be more comfortable using steel tubing, but that's just me.
Here is an interesting diagram from Aeromotive regarding fuel systems. They are an industry leader in fuel systems
If you don't want to do what I did, I would still suggest you use as much hardline as possible. I also suggest avoiding multiple pieces joined together.
Compared to ss hardline, regular steel hardline is pretty easy to bend, and it is available in natural or zinc plated finish. You can buy it bulk in 25' coils to avoid mutiple pieces. I believe with someone helping you, you should be able to get it up and over the rear frame kickup.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220138/
Aluminum tubing is even easier to bend, and is also available in bulk. I personally would be more comfortable using steel tubing, but that's just me.
Here is an interesting diagram from Aeromotive regarding fuel systems. They are an industry leader in fuel systems
#11
Burning Brakes
You could also look into Cunifer (brand name) tubing or copper alloy tubing. I have used it for brake lines and it is easier to work with than steel, much easier than stainless. It is used more in europe, but gaining popularity here. No corosion problems, DOT certified, and much easier to bend and form.
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Pinellas Park FL
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
7T2Vette,
when u installed the ss line, what did you do where the factory installed "S" shaped rubber hose is installed over the frame? Did you replace them with FI rated hose or just use the solid line.
when u installed the ss line, what did you do where the factory installed "S" shaped rubber hose is installed over the frame? Did you replace them with FI rated hose or just use the solid line.
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Pinellas Park FL
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No. There are 2 s shaped rubber hose just ahead of the right rear tire. The factory metal lines are connected to each end.. They are about 4 inches line.
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...970-1981.html#
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...970-1981.html#
#15
I just did my entire fuel system with Summit Racing teflon-lined stainless steel braided line and fittings with the body on. I also used their rubber-lined mounts and was able to use the factory locations and bolts to mount it. The Summit house brand is cheaper than other brands but the quality is real nice. I think it cost me under $200 for the whole thing with fittings, though I have a carburetor setup (yes, overkill, I know.....). The teflon line uses specific fittings. I thought this was good insurance anyway with all the ethanol issues.
#17
Another alternative is the OEM style plastic hose and nylon ends used on every car today. You can buy the parts or kits at a fraction of the cost of braided. I've done 2 LS swaps with hardline and short lengths of stainless braided on each end. Next one will definitely be OEM plastic.
#18
Melting Slicks
Im planning to use the SURR Nylon lines for my install. They have a kit that is pretty handy, with all of the fittings and whatnot. I may use a section of steel along the frame,
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Pinellas Park FL
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
great suggestion on the plastic lines. I did some research on the SURR Nylon Kit. It looks perfect for replacing the lines with the body on. Maybe run steel on the rails and use the nylon for all the bends etc. Think im definitely going to go this route.