Ballast Resistor wire location on '69
#1
Burning Brakes
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Ballast Resistor wire location on '69
Been having problems with my '69 being "sluggish". Its got an MSD 6AL ignition box, distrubutor and coil. After carefully reading the 6AL instructions, it says to "bypass the ballast resistor in line with the coil wiring."
Where on the '69 is this ballast resistor? is in inside the wrapped wires, or external on the firewall? My '69 has a new wiring harness installed as well.
Also what the best way to bypass this? Can I cut the wire and splice in a regular wire, and then solder/heat shrink it?
Thanks!
Where on the '69 is this ballast resistor? is in inside the wrapped wires, or external on the firewall? My '69 has a new wiring harness installed as well.
Also what the best way to bypass this? Can I cut the wire and splice in a regular wire, and then solder/heat shrink it?
Thanks!
#2
You have a pair of wires hooked to the positive side of the ignition coil, one of these is a resistance wire. Disconnect the wires and run a lead from the empty spot on the fuse box labeled IGN.
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#5
Burning Brakes
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Ok, So I ran a new wire directly from the empty slot on the IGN fusebox panel into the engine bay and connected it to my MSD. Seems like it didn't make that much of a difference in acceleration.
#6
What do you have total mechanical advance set for? Did you have this problem before installing all the MSD stuff?
#7
Melting Slicks
69's had a resistor wire to the coil instead of a ballast resistor. The resistor wire reduces current to prevent the ingition points from cooking. The lost current is converted to heat as it makes it's way down the resistor wire, necessatating a cotton-like insulation for this wire. This heat is the reason for the "accessory" position for your ignition key. If you leave the key in the "on" position with engine not running, this wire can really heat up which could cause problems.
Yes, bypass this resistor wire. As stated above, there's a "IGN" port on your fuse box behind your E-brake pedal. Run a white colored 14g twisted copper length of wire through the firewall to the "+" side of the coil. Take your white cotton insulated wire out of play.
Now you have full current to the coil.
Good luck!
Yes, bypass this resistor wire. As stated above, there's a "IGN" port on your fuse box behind your E-brake pedal. Run a white colored 14g twisted copper length of wire through the firewall to the "+" side of the coil. Take your white cotton insulated wire out of play.
Now you have full current to the coil.
Good luck!
#8
Burning Brakes
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69's had a resistor wire to the coil instead of a ballast resistor. The resistor wire reduces current to prevent the ingition points from cooking. The lost current is converted to heat as it makes it's way down the resistor wire, necessatating a cotton-like insulation for this wire. This heat is the reason for the "accessory" position for your ignition key. If you leave the key in the "on" position with engine not running, this wire can really heat up which could cause problems.
Yes, bypass this resistor wire. As stated above, there's a "IGN" port on your fuse box behind your E-brake pedal. Run a white colored 14g twisted copper length of wire through the firewall to the "+" side of the coil. Take your white cotton insulated wire out of play.
Now you have full current to the coil.
Good luck!
Yes, bypass this resistor wire. As stated above, there's a "IGN" port on your fuse box behind your E-brake pedal. Run a white colored 14g twisted copper length of wire through the firewall to the "+" side of the coil. Take your white cotton insulated wire out of play.
Now you have full current to the coil.
Good luck!