power steering not acting right
10-01-2012, 05:19 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
power steering not acting right
While I was working on fabbing idea I removed the power steering hyd. ram from the car along with the bracket that bolts it to the frame. I re-installed it this weekend and refilled the power steering pump up. With the wheels off the ground I went to turn it back and forth to get the air out and realized I hooked the lines up backwards. So I hook the lines up correctly and then went back to working the air our. With the wheels off the ground the steering works good I can turn the steering back and forth. I lowered the car and for a test drive. Now once the car starts moving the power steering works good. Problem is that when sitting still, the steering feels like its in manual mode and I have to muscle it to get it to turn. So is there still air in the system or did I mess something up when I had the lines backwards ?
10-01-2012, 06:11 AM
#2
Hope it will help you !
The following is taken from a GM bulletin on eliminating air from a power steering system after the system has been taken apart for repairs.
GETTING THE AIR OUT
After replacing a pump, rack or hose, you'll also have to bleed the system of air before returning the vehicle to the customer. Bleeding may also be necessary if the fluid level in the pump reservoir has gotten low and allowed air to enter the lines. Air can cause noisy operation as well as reduced power assist.
One way to tell if there's air in the system is to observe the appearance of the fluid. If an ATF-based fluid is pinkish or foamy in appearance, it's full of air bubbles. If a normally clear fluid has a tan appearance, it also contains air.
After filling the pump reservoir with the proper fluid, raise the wheels off the ground and slowly turn the steering from lock to lock with the engine off. When you reach the stop at one side, wait about five seconds before cranking the wheels the other way. Continue cranking the wheels back and forth 10 to 12 times while keeping an eye on the fluid reservoir and adding fluid as needed to keep it full. This should get rid of most of the air in the system and give you a good upper-body workout.
On some applications, you may have to use a power steering pump air evacuator to purge all of the air from the system. The tool consists of a rubber stopper that fits into the filler opening of the pump reservoir. Attached to it is a vacuum hose connected to a vacuum pump or siphon. The tool applies vacuum to the reservoir while the engine is idling to help draw out dissolved air bubbles. Cycle the steering from lock to lock every 30 seconds for approximately five minutes while maintaining 15 inches Hg of vacuum. Do not hold the steering wheel at the stops while cycling because this increases pressure. If one session doesn't completely purge all the air, you may have to repeat the vacuum procedure several times.
Finally, give the vehicle a short test drive to make sure the steering feels normal and is quiet. Check belt tension at the pump and the condition of the belt (replacement is recommended if the belt shows any physical damage, is glazed or is more than five years old).
The following is taken from a GM bulletin on eliminating air from a power steering system after the system has been taken apart for repairs.
GETTING THE AIR OUT
After replacing a pump, rack or hose, you'll also have to bleed the system of air before returning the vehicle to the customer. Bleeding may also be necessary if the fluid level in the pump reservoir has gotten low and allowed air to enter the lines. Air can cause noisy operation as well as reduced power assist.
One way to tell if there's air in the system is to observe the appearance of the fluid. If an ATF-based fluid is pinkish or foamy in appearance, it's full of air bubbles. If a normally clear fluid has a tan appearance, it also contains air.
After filling the pump reservoir with the proper fluid, raise the wheels off the ground and slowly turn the steering from lock to lock with the engine off. When you reach the stop at one side, wait about five seconds before cranking the wheels the other way. Continue cranking the wheels back and forth 10 to 12 times while keeping an eye on the fluid reservoir and adding fluid as needed to keep it full. This should get rid of most of the air in the system and give you a good upper-body workout.
On some applications, you may have to use a power steering pump air evacuator to purge all of the air from the system. The tool consists of a rubber stopper that fits into the filler opening of the pump reservoir. Attached to it is a vacuum hose connected to a vacuum pump or siphon. The tool applies vacuum to the reservoir while the engine is idling to help draw out dissolved air bubbles. Cycle the steering from lock to lock every 30 seconds for approximately five minutes while maintaining 15 inches Hg of vacuum. Do not hold the steering wheel at the stops while cycling because this increases pressure. If one session doesn't completely purge all the air, you may have to repeat the vacuum procedure several times.
Finally, give the vehicle a short test drive to make sure the steering feels normal and is quiet. Check belt tension at the pump and the condition of the belt (replacement is recommended if the belt shows any physical damage, is glazed or is more than five years old).
10-01-2012, 08:42 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
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The above is a good explanation as to how to "get the air out." Particularly when you replace the assist cylinder with a C2/C3 Corvette system or the integral power steering gear with most conventional GM power steering systems, those two components are the furthest parts in the system from the pump. If they are new, (or old parts that are empty of fluid), this condition is the most difficult to get the air all the way up to the pump reservoir and to the atmosphere to replace all of the air with power steering fluid.
Jim
Jim
10-01-2012, 09:34 AM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Jim and Macvette.
I did not know about the vehicle to be not running at the time. I have always done it with the car running. So I guess you both think I have air trapped down in the cylinder and that is why its not operating correctly with the wheels on the ground and sitting still. I will put it up in the air the evening and try it.
I did not know about the vehicle to be not running at the time. I have always done it with the car running. So I guess you both think I have air trapped down in the cylinder and that is why its not operating correctly with the wheels on the ground and sitting still. I will put it up in the air the evening and try it.
11-10-2012, 05:05 AM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Update.
I have bled the system according to the info above and it still does not work right. When sitting still at idle, The steering is like in manual mode where its a bear to turn. But once I start moving, it works like itsuppose to. I looked it the resevior while the engine is running and the fluid is just sitting there with no movement. Is my steering pump bad ?
Could I have damaged it when I had the lines crossed. Isnt the fluid supposed to be flowing around ?
I have bled the system according to the info above and it still does not work right. When sitting still at idle, The steering is like in manual mode where its a bear to turn. But once I start moving, it works like itsuppose to. I looked it the resevior while the engine is running and the fluid is just sitting there with no movement. Is my steering pump bad ?
Could I have damaged it when I had the lines crossed. Isnt the fluid supposed to be flowing around ?
11-10-2012, 08:13 AM
#6
Le Mans Master
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Power steering fluid should be "flowing around" at all times (except at full lock) but you wouldn't necessarily see it by looking down into the pump reservoir. The area that you are looking at in the reservoir is a "calming" fluid area that should allow air bubbles to come to the surface.
I does sound as if you have a pump problem. However, when you replace the assist cylinder, it is the furthest part of the steering system from the pump and could still have air inside which could cause this apparent lack of assist.
With respect to the pump, there is a linear valve #6 just behind the pump discharge fitting #24 that could possibly be sticking and preventing the pump from developing pressure to steer the car.
You might remove your power steering pressure hose and then the fitting. Reach inside the pump and press on the linear valve. It should easily slide inside the pump housing with no sticking. You should feel it pressing against the spring #5 behind it.
Jim
I does sound as if you have a pump problem. However, when you replace the assist cylinder, it is the furthest part of the steering system from the pump and could still have air inside which could cause this apparent lack of assist.
With respect to the pump, there is a linear valve #6 just behind the pump discharge fitting #24 that could possibly be sticking and preventing the pump from developing pressure to steer the car.
You might remove your power steering pressure hose and then the fitting. Reach inside the pump and press on the linear valve. It should easily slide inside the pump housing with no sticking. You should feel it pressing against the spring #5 behind it.
Jim
