Brake Booster Removal Made Easy
07-04-2015, 05:09 PM
#21
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Got the booster out today. Three of the nuts were reasonably simple to get to, but the only stinking way I could get to the top right nut was to first remove the clutch pedal starter interlock switch assembly. After that, things went reasonably "smooth".
07-07-2015, 12:46 AM
#22
how are you guys getting the pedal pin reinstalled? i just spent about 2 hours on my back this evening trying to get that damn pin reinstalled.
for the life of me, i just can not get the booster bracket and pedal rod to align to slip the pin through.
for the life of me, i just can not get the booster bracket and pedal rod to align to slip the pin through.
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Doctor Bill (05-27-2022)
07-07-2015, 01:08 AM
#23
Nam Labrat
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FYI.......Harbor Freight sells a pair of 12" long needle nose pliers.....good for starting pins and nuts into tight spaces.
Thanks for reviving this booster thread....I'll need the info soon.
Thanks for reviving this booster thread....I'll need the info soon.
It was a timely thread revival for me too.
07-07-2015, 09:18 PM
#25
seriously, am i missing something here? ive tried every damn thing i can think of to get the boosters U bracket and the brake pedal to align. i can only get them to align in 1 location but then its too far up in the firewall and the bolt is too long and gets hung up on other brackets back there.
i seriously have a good 5hrs into trying to get that single bolt reinstalled now.
i seriously have a good 5hrs into trying to get that single bolt reinstalled now.
07-07-2015, 09:44 PM
#26
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seriously, am i missing something here? ive tried every damn thing i can think of to get the boosters U bracket and the brake pedal to align. i can only get them to align in 1 location but then its too far up in the firewall and the bolt is too long and gets hung up on other brackets back there.
i seriously have a good 5hrs into trying to get that single bolt reinstalled now.
i seriously have a good 5hrs into trying to get that single bolt reinstalled now.
One way or another, I guess I'll find out.
07-07-2015, 09:55 PM
#27
You're one step in the process ahead of me. I got the booster out, but I'm adapting an '84 C4 booster to put in its place (4# lighter). Later on in the week I'll need to hook the pedal and booster pushrod back together. I am a bit curious about the trouble you've been experiencing. The pin slipped out just fine for me (with the pedal in the normal position IIRC), so I am hoping that all I have to do is reverse the process.
One way or another, I guess I'll find out.
One way or another, I guess I'll find out.
09-16-2015, 09:28 PM
#28
Great tips!
I found the brake booster replacement to be a relatively easy job. I did use the extensions recommended with a ratchet and wiggle joint even though I do have an impact wrench. I think everyone will need to remove the driver's seat no matter how small the person is. It is not a hard job at all. I got it done in a short amount of time even though I'm still recovering from a broken right clavicle. Many thanks to the original poster for his insight!!!
09-16-2015, 11:06 PM
#29
Melting Slicks
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I found the brake booster replacement to be a relatively easy job. I did use the extensions recommended with a ratchet and wiggle joint even though I do have an impact wrench. I think everyone will need to remove the driver's seat no matter how small the person is. It is not a hard job at all. I got it done in a short amount of time even though I'm still recovering from a broken right clavicle. Many thanks to the original poster for his insight!!!
I had no problem replacing my brake booster without taking the seat out. I did all the work with my feet on the ground and with my waist bending sideways over the door sill. The seat was never any issue at all. It took about 20 minutes to take it out and 40 minutes to put the new one in using and 18" extension and a u-joint.
09-17-2015, 06:28 AM
#30
I had no problem replacing my brake booster without taking the seat out. I did all the work with my feet on the ground and with my waist bending sideways over the door sill. The seat was never any issue at all. It took about 20 minutes to take it out and 40 minutes to put the new one in using and 18" extension and a u-joint.
Last edited by ykf7b0; 09-17-2015 at 06:30 AM.
11-17-2015, 03:01 PM
#31
A bit of error
Discovered that my brake booster had a vacuum leak inside. I figured it out because when adjusting my carb per Lars techniques, I could not get the idle below 1000 rpm. Short note to Lars and he made it simple: "you either have a vacuum leak or your throttles are not actually closed." I started checking hoses and discovered that when I took off the brake booster hose and plugged it with my finger, rpm came way down. Hooked up to booster again, rpm went up to 1000. So, now I get to the point of this post.
I searched the forum and read several horror stories about removing the 4 nuts from under the dash that hold on the booster. All kinds of suggestions from removing the dash to pulling a ton of parts off to get to the nuts. I pulled off the simple black plastic vent tube (and nothing else) and had all four nuts off in 10 minutes!
Here is how:
First, I did remove the seat because I am over 220 pounds and getting on the floor is not easy. You might not even need to do that if you are smaller. Anyway, the seat comes out with four easy access bolts...no problem. Here is what you need...an 18" extension for your 3/8 drive (I used a 12 plus a 6), a knuckle joint, and a deep 9/16 socket. Put some masking tape around the knuckle so it does not move around as much. Then USE A 3/8 AIR SOCKET WRENCH! I laid on my back, pulled off the black section of the plastic air vent, put the socket up onto the nut (fit nicely), and then attached the air ratchet to the extension and pressed the button. Nuts just spin right off. The key to this whole thing is the tape on the knuckle and the air ratchet. Trying to turn a normal socket wrench upside down with a knuckle on the end is a mess. The air ratchet just spins those things right off. After you have the four nuts off (10 minutes tops), remove the pen that holds the booster lever to the pedal. Now go unbolt the Master Cylinder and carefully set it aside being sure you do not mess up the brake lines (it set real nice against the manifold). I had the entire booster off and on my bench in 15 minutes...boxed up and in the mail to Dewey for full resto...took longer to box it than remove it.
BTW, he completely restores everything to original (rubber, seals, washers), tests it, bead blasts it, primers it and paints it in original satin black. Takes four days and he ships it back all for $140 (including shipping)!
Hope this helps someone. Let me know if you have any questions
I searched the forum and read several horror stories about removing the 4 nuts from under the dash that hold on the booster. All kinds of suggestions from removing the dash to pulling a ton of parts off to get to the nuts. I pulled off the simple black plastic vent tube (and nothing else) and had all four nuts off in 10 minutes!
Here is how:
First, I did remove the seat because I am over 220 pounds and getting on the floor is not easy. You might not even need to do that if you are smaller. Anyway, the seat comes out with four easy access bolts...no problem. Here is what you need...an 18" extension for your 3/8 drive (I used a 12 plus a 6), a knuckle joint, and a deep 9/16 socket. Put some masking tape around the knuckle so it does not move around as much. Then USE A 3/8 AIR SOCKET WRENCH! I laid on my back, pulled off the black section of the plastic air vent, put the socket up onto the nut (fit nicely), and then attached the air ratchet to the extension and pressed the button. Nuts just spin right off. The key to this whole thing is the tape on the knuckle and the air ratchet. Trying to turn a normal socket wrench upside down with a knuckle on the end is a mess. The air ratchet just spins those things right off. After you have the four nuts off (10 minutes tops), remove the pen that holds the booster lever to the pedal. Now go unbolt the Master Cylinder and carefully set it aside being sure you do not mess up the brake lines (it set real nice against the manifold). I had the entire booster off and on my bench in 15 minutes...boxed up and in the mail to Dewey for full resto...took longer to box it than remove it.
BTW, he completely restores everything to original (rubber, seals, washers), tests it, bead blasts it, primers it and paints it in original satin black. Takes four days and he ships it back all for $140 (including shipping)!
Hope this helps someone. Let me know if you have any questions
Jax
1962 C1 - 1963 Split Window Coupe - 1977 L-82
11-17-2015, 03:19 PM
#32
Melting Slicks
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I don't get it, I was busting my *** under there as my booster/master is now 38 years old and brakes are #1 on any car. After 20 min of trying to get to the lower bolts, trying to get my deep 9/16 socket on, it was not happening. I went to my new booster and the nuts are 11/16 then I went to car and same, 11/16 nuts on firewall booster back. I will now try with the 11/16 deep socket and see if I can get to all without seat removal as it is 40 degrees and I am doing this with no heat. The pin through the pedal does look like a bitch, as do the top nuts. Niw for real. Thanks for the rest.
Jax
1962 C1 - 1963 Split Window Coupe - 1977 L-82
Jax
1962 C1 - 1963 Split Window Coupe - 1977 L-82
I used an 18" extension with a u-joint and deep 9/16" socket but the Chinese replacement boosters have 10 mm studs and metric nuts that need a larger socket like an 11/16". The secret is use GOOD lighting so you can see way up there. And spray WD-40 onto the pin and clevis FIRST to dissolve the rust that has built up on/in it. When I went back together I used a 3/8" clevis pin and hair clip to attach it and chucked the OEM pin and spring clip. I used a long nose needle nose pliers to grip the hair clip and it popped right in with no effort.
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73Reprise (06-06-2019)
11-18-2015, 07:01 AM
#33
I used an 18" extension with a u-joint and deep 9/16" socket but the Chinese replacement boosters have 10 mm studs and metric nuts that need a larger socket like an 11/16". The secret is use GOOD lighting so you can see way up there. And spray WD-40 onto the pin and clevis FIRST to dissolve the rust that has built up on/in it. When I went back together I used a 3/8" clevis pin and hair clip to attach it and chucked the OEM pin and spring clip. I used a long nose needle nose pliers to grip the hair clip and it popped right in with no effort.
My 63 S2 master went. I found a kit and rebuilt it. I am going to speak to NCRS about what is legal for keeping cars original but making them safer. My 62 & 63 split are totally stock, never hit all matching #'s. The masters are single chamber units that I feel are a bad design. My 61 Cadillac Convertible had a single chamber that I converted to a 1965 Cadillac dual master/booster unit. Caddy club ok'ed it. If that one chamber goes there is no back up chamber. I want to update my brakes on the 62&63 with NCRS letting me know what I can use. Even GTOAA approved for my 67 GTO convertible that I am finishing a body off on, front disc conversion and different master/ booster. My 77 L-82 I am not that crazy with as past owners changed lots of parts totally not born with. But from a quick look you can't tell. The tape on socket knuckle was a great tip. Today I will put everything back. The clip is a typical GM slide on clip into groove with locking cap that all you need actually is a screwdriver to spread the top of clip out of top lock, then just push it off. Bleeding this brake system can be tough. If anyone has problems, gravity bleed first, then pressure bleed. Especially if master is not new, if old master just gravity or use a pressure bleeder as the rust in chambers that rubbers don't touch will get in the way. If doing booster, just go for master too. It's your life!!!!!
Jax
1962 C1
1963 C2 SWC
1977 C3 L-82
Last edited by xkeots; 11-18-2015 at 07:54 AM. Reason: Forgot comment
11-18-2015, 07:59 AM
#35
I would rather have a rebuilt item from Mexico than a new Chinese part.
Jax
Last edited by xkeots; 11-18-2015 at 07:59 AM.
11-18-2015, 08:11 PM
#36
OK, a after reading several folks who gave me the impression that putting it back on would be harder, thought I would provide an update.
Recieved the booster back from Dewey at Power Brake. It took about 3 days to ship it to him, he had it complete and back in the mail to me within 2 days. I received it via ups 4 days later. So total time off the vehicle was about 2 weeks with the weekends.
Booster looked great. I put it into place back on the firewall and used a bungee cord to keep it snug and in place. Still had the seat out of the car. This time I used a regular standard length socket to get the nuts started. Still used about 18" extension and a knuckle with tape on it. I hade all four nuts started in 5 minutes. Switched over to the deep socket(same knuckle and extension) and used the air ratchet. All four tight in 3 minutes. It took. About 2 minutes to get the pedal hooked up with the pin and clip. Putting back the plastic vent pipe took me 10 minutes...longest part of the job.
Bolted up the MC, hooked up the vac line. Cranked it up...perfect brakes, very stiff and no vac leak. So, based on my experience, I believe that if you take out your seat, remove the plastic air vent pipe and then use the process I did with the extension, taped knuckle, and air wrench, this is a simple 30 minute job.
Recieved the booster back from Dewey at Power Brake. It took about 3 days to ship it to him, he had it complete and back in the mail to me within 2 days. I received it via ups 4 days later. So total time off the vehicle was about 2 weeks with the weekends.
Booster looked great. I put it into place back on the firewall and used a bungee cord to keep it snug and in place. Still had the seat out of the car. This time I used a regular standard length socket to get the nuts started. Still used about 18" extension and a knuckle with tape on it. I hade all four nuts started in 5 minutes. Switched over to the deep socket(same knuckle and extension) and used the air ratchet. All four tight in 3 minutes. It took. About 2 minutes to get the pedal hooked up with the pin and clip. Putting back the plastic vent pipe took me 10 minutes...longest part of the job.
Bolted up the MC, hooked up the vac line. Cranked it up...perfect brakes, very stiff and no vac leak. So, based on my experience, I believe that if you take out your seat, remove the plastic air vent pipe and then use the process I did with the extension, taped knuckle, and air wrench, this is a simple 30 minute job.
Any thoughts? It is real tight in there.
What is that plate for in the wiper valley in front of where the booster bolts sit? Is that an access plate for the booster? I didn't remove it as I didn't have any permatex sealer (I ran out).
Thanks
Jax
11-18-2015, 08:18 PM
#37
seriously, am i missing something here? ive tried every damn thing i can think of to get the boosters U bracket and the brake pedal to align. i can only get them to align in 1 location but then its too far up in the firewall and the bolt is too long and gets hung up on other brackets back there.
i seriously have a good 5hrs into trying to get that single bolt reinstalled now.
i seriously have a good 5hrs into trying to get that single bolt reinstalled now.
Thanks
Jax
Last edited by xkeots; 11-18-2015 at 08:27 PM.
11-18-2015, 09:21 PM
#38
Melting Slicks
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I used some 12" needle nose pliers to both assist in pushing the pin in place as well as getting the retaining clip on. You can grab the pin with the tip of the pliers and get it started in the hole and then use the bracket as a leverage point to push it the rest of the way through. The clip is just a game of don't bump into anything as you try to position it in the right spot.
If you guys thing it is difficult on a power brake car, you should try it in the manual brake hole that is a few inches higher and completely surrounded by the brake mounting bracket.... 3.5 hours, just to get the pin and clip installed the other day... All because I did not want to drop the column.
If you guys thing it is difficult on a power brake car, you should try it in the manual brake hole that is a few inches higher and completely surrounded by the brake mounting bracket.... 3.5 hours, just to get the pin and clip installed the other day... All because I did not want to drop the column.
11-19-2015, 12:34 PM
#39
OK, a after reading several folks who gave me the impression that putting it back on would be harder, thought I would provide an update.
Recieved the booster back from Dewey at Power Brake. It took about 3 days to ship it to him, he had it complete and back in the mail to me within 2 days. I received it via ups 4 days later. So total time off the vehicle was about 2 weeks with the weekends.
Booster looked great. I put it into place back on the firewall and used a bungee cord to keep it snug and in place. Still had the seat out of the car. This time I used a regular standard length socket to get the nuts started. Still used about 18" extension and a knuckle with tape on it. I hade all four nuts started in 5 minutes. Switched over to the deep socket(same knuckle and extension) and used the air ratchet. All four tight in 3 minutes. It took. About 2 minutes to get the pedal hooked up with the pin and clip. Putting back the plastic vent pipe took me 10 minutes...longest part of the job.
Bolted up the MC, hooked up the vac line. Cranked it up...perfect brakes, very stiff and no vac leak. So, based on my experience, I believe that if you take out your seat, remove the plastic air vent pipe and then use the process I did with the extension, taped knuckle, and air wrench, this is a simple 30 minute job.
Recieved the booster back from Dewey at Power Brake. It took about 3 days to ship it to him, he had it complete and back in the mail to me within 2 days. I received it via ups 4 days later. So total time off the vehicle was about 2 weeks with the weekends.
Booster looked great. I put it into place back on the firewall and used a bungee cord to keep it snug and in place. Still had the seat out of the car. This time I used a regular standard length socket to get the nuts started. Still used about 18" extension and a knuckle with tape on it. I hade all four nuts started in 5 minutes. Switched over to the deep socket(same knuckle and extension) and used the air ratchet. All four tight in 3 minutes. It took. About 2 minutes to get the pedal hooked up with the pin and clip. Putting back the plastic vent pipe took me 10 minutes...longest part of the job.
Bolted up the MC, hooked up the vac line. Cranked it up...perfect brakes, very stiff and no vac leak. So, based on my experience, I believe that if you take out your seat, remove the plastic air vent pipe and then use the process I did with the extension, taped knuckle, and air wrench, this is a simple 30 minute job.
Thanks
Jax
11-19-2015, 12:37 PM
#40
I used some 12" needle nose pliers to both assist in pushing the pin in place as well as getting the retaining clip on. You can grab the pin with the tip of the pliers and get it started in the hole and then use the bracket as a leverage point to push it the rest of the way through. The clip is just a game of don't bump into anything as you try to position it in the right spot.
If you guys thing it is difficult on a power brake car, you should try it in the manual brake hole that is a few inches higher and completely surrounded by the brake mounting bracket.... 3.5 hours, just to get the pin and clip installed the other day... All because I did not want to drop the column.
If you guys thing it is difficult on a power brake car, you should try it in the manual brake hole that is a few inches higher and completely surrounded by the brake mounting bracket.... 3.5 hours, just to get the pin and clip installed the other day... All because I did not want to drop the column.
Jax