superdave269

Does anyone have any tips on how to "roll" new rod bearings in with the engine still in the car? I have read that it has been done but I have never done this before so I wanted to ask exactly how to do this. The nice thing is the pan looks like it will come out unlike my chevelle.Thanks

Korevette

Having no personal experience with this excersize I can only share from what I heard in discussion.

I was of the understanding you would take the rod cap off, give the rod a slight tap to free up the upper bearing, lube, push/insert the new bearing up against the old one end on end to 'push' it around the crank journal to replace. Lay the replacement bearing in the cap and tighten up with taking in consideration for clearance and torque.

I am sure it would be wise not to 'scratch' anything. I wonder if Chiltons or Motor car repair manuals would have any knowledge.

oldalaskaman

Its a poor mans rebuild, I do it a lot , its not difficult, you swap out the mains also, if you're doing it in an attempt to fix a light rod knock, you are to late, the time to do it is before you need to, just when you notice oil pressure dropping off and fresh oil doesnt help bring it back. btw, also roll in a new oil pump

cardo0

U need to pop the cap on the rods to remove the bearings. Then after installing and reassembly u need to torque the rod bolts to correct torque.

To roll out the old main bearings and roll in the new brgs u need to unbolt and pop the main cap off. Then install a very large cotter pin (that's what i use) and turn the crank to push out the old main brg then push in the new. Again torque the cap bolts to correct torque - i like to torque in steps before using full torque.

That's 'bout it,
cardo0

superdave269

That's me alright. I am a unoin tradesman and have only been employed for 10 weeks this year. Wish it was 10 months.
Ok so Roll the crank, not sure where I should put the carter pin but I guess in between the bearing and the crank and then the motion pops it out.
If the crank is spun to the bottom could I push the piston up a little to help remove the bearing?

Should I add a high volume pump or stock? Would either help quiet it down?

I wonder what this thing is going to sound like with new bearings. I also wonder what I will find when I drop the pan and take a look. I hope to start this today.
Thanks for the replys! Wish me luck.

oldalaskaman

I never roll the crank, push the bearing oppisit the keeper side with a very thin flat head screwdriver and a small hammer, you tap the bearing up on one side with the driver, and then use it to leverage the bearing down from the other side'kinda like a mini pry bar. do one bearing at a time
yes on pushing the rods slightly away from the crank
its a personal choice , but I go with the hi vollum pump, with the extra clearances your working with , it wont hurt

as I've stated before, ////if you have any rod noise at all////at any time/// , this wont work///, you're wasting your time and money, you also need to look at the bearings as you take them out to see if they have been done before and to make sure you re- install the right thickness

superdave269

Thanks oldalaskaman. I have heard that it is rare that the crank isn't scratched so bad that it can be saved while in the car with a little polishing. With my luck it's toast but at least I will know what I am dealing with when we pull the engine.

hugie82

if its a solid knock as the rpm pick up your wasting your time. This is for the hot engine at idle you'll hear a little intermittent knock and usually an oil change makes it go away.
Trust us when we tell you! Laying on your back for hours dropping the pan, tapping out bearings is more work than pulling the motor! Find a core engine and rebuild it on the cheap then swap motors.
In the mean time run straight 50wt oil with Lucas oil treatment. That'll keep it quiet until the new motor is ready

Indiancreek

I have a main and rod std. bearing that I have made for the most part, flat. I line up the flat bearing with the one I want to remove on the side opposite the indent side. I keep the soft bearing surface toward the crank journal. A very slight tap, and it will begin to spin. Work it around and lift off.
Lube and spin the new bearing back in the direction the old one came out.
I've seen guys use a small punch, but I'd be concerned with damage to the crank journal.

oldalaskaman

doesnt have as much to do with the crank as it does excessive clearances, some things just cant be 'quick fixed' , if they could , I would do them, I wish you good luck, it may quiet them down almost to the point where you can't quite hear them, but they will come back. switch to 20-50w or even 50w oil, depending on what part of the country you live in

oldalaskaman

good advice, actually good advice from all of you, respectfully

superdave269

I have no doubt that if the noise quieted down that it would come back(rather quickly) but I was hopping to do an inspection and buy some time. I have never run 50w oil in anything. Do you really think that would help with the noise even with a bad bearing?

oldalaskaman

it will do as much as rolling new bearings in will do when you have rod knocks

superdave269

I found it. It has one spun bearing just like I thought. I was really surprised that the crank and rod are not real bad looking. I thought it would of been really scraped up. Anyone know where I can one .002 bbc rod bearing?

Indiancreek

If the bearing has spun you'll need to have the rod reconditioned. What shape is the rod journal?

7t9l82

if you replace the oil pump remember to prime it.

cardo0

There is a hole in the journal that the cotter pin goes in. U take the cotter pin and spread the ends so that when the body of the pin is in the oil hole the ends lay flat on the journal and match up to the bearing half. U may have to try a couple of cotter pins to fit it up correctly.

Whew, u almost scraped up the journal.

Keep posting if u need help and i will try to reply as soon as possible.

U can polish that journal if scraped up using 400 to 600 grit paper. I slipped small strips in the brg space on the mains and then rotated the crank to get the full surface. The rod journal is even more accessible and u can do the professional method with one strip around the journal and use a small leather rope with one wrap around the journal to work it good.

Hope this helps ya,
cardo0

Indiancreek

I pack them with Vasoline. Gets instant pressure.

oldalaskaman

btw. bearings usually run .001, .002, .010, .020, ....002 is a bit of an odd size. as someone prev. mentioned , your rod journal may be egg shaped, good luck

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=29583

superdave269

I spoke with a guy yesterday who told me he had actually done this himself. He told he his Dad had done it years ago and talked him through it. He told me once he put the new bearing in the clearance was to big so his Dad had him file the rod cap down with the bearing in it. He said it took a few trys as he didn't want to remove to much metal all at once. The best part is he got real luck and actually put 40,000 mile on it with the bubba fix. He cliams he babied it and never took the RPMs up very high. All of the extra time gave him plenty of time to save up and buy a new crate engine. I still don't know if I can buy any extra time with the engine but I can't wait to find out. By the way I found some old time repair procedures desribing filling the end caps down for Model T Ford rebuild.