74 LS4-454

A few months ago on the 82, I replaced the powers steering control valve, the ram, and hoses. Bled the system to remove the air, no problem.
Left the power steering ram disconnected to see if it needed adjustment. It did not move on start-up, so I left it alone and connected. But everytime I start the engine and move the vehicle at a slow speed, it is very hard to turn. Once operating at speed, it is fine.
Any thoughts or ideas on this????
BTW....steering box was also rebuilt...........Thanks....Tom

gve

It could be your pump is weak or the belt is slipping, if you increase the rpm does it steer ok?

Phil Zell

did you center the ram ? before connecting to bracket

74 LS4-454

yes, as you increase the rpm's and get up to speed, it steers fine, only when you are at very slow speed, does it feel harder to turn. It also may be when the fluid is cold upon start-up. I don't hear any pump noise and belt was adjusted during the summer.

no did not center the ram, as it did not move (was not connected to the bracket) when the engine was started, so I thought it wasn't a necessary step to take.

AirborneSilva

I think what he was asking is if when you are sitting still, in park or neutral, when you increase RPM's does it get easier to steer, not when moving because that is what naturally happens when you increase your speed.

74 LS4-454

Thanks for pointing that out, at my age some things just go over my head.....
that I have not tried, but will do tomorrow in the AM.......

AirborneSilva

Boy don't I know that

MalibuVLX

I read that you bleed the system. On mine, I thought I had bleed it adequately and was acting the same way as yours. I put it up on jack stands and turned wheel back and forth w/ the car off many times and then started the car and repeated. I actully had a friend helping and he could see air bubbles coming up in the reservoir as we turned the wheel. Topped of the fluid to correct level and it fixed mine. Hope this helps.

Peterbuilt

Rebleed the system.

If still not good enough make sure this valve moves freely.


Still not good enough then try this:
Posts 5 10 & 16:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...some-help.html

74 LS4-454

thanks for the info, I will have to do what you did and bleed the system again. I'll probably adjust the control valve, even though it didn't move on start-up. appreciated....Tom

74 LS4-454

Pete, good info....thanks.........

wombvette

I keep hearing all the chatter about bleeding. It really isn't necessary. If you drive it for any length of time it will bleed itself. Might not operate quite right initially, but, it don't take long for it to settle down. Bleeding is as simple as turning lock to lock a couple of times.

In this case it could be one of three things. Low pressure ( pump or pressure valve), a bad control valve, which doesn't apply fluid to each side of the cylinder, or the cylinder itself. Sometimes the seal leaks between the compartments of the cylinder and pressurizes both sides.

Start by checking the pressure by pinching off the pressure line or turning it hard against the locks. If it howls and the engine labors, the pressure is OK. Then go to the cylinder.

TheSkunkWorks

Not saying it is bound to happen, and it is apparently rare, but one particularly alarming control valve malfunction is to suddenly go full-lock one way or the other, and with such force that you're unlikely to overcome it in the moment. Had mine do that, steering me across opposing lanes. Fortunately, there was a gap in traffic and I managed to get stopped just short of a telephone pole, or I wouldn't be sharing my story.

So, in the odd event that your problem could eventually cause the above, I'd urge that you don't delay diagnosing and addressing whatever is wrong.

74 LS4-454

The power control valve is new, but as mentioned, I never adjusted it because it appeared to be dead on during start-up. The cylinder is a rebuilt unit and all hoses are new. When I do check the PS fluid, there appears to be alot of fluid outside the cap, and on the neck of the pump, so I may have a pump problem as suggested.
The wheel does not pull one way or another on the highway, I can be going 70 or above and let go of the wheel and it tracks straight. I don't hear any unusual noises from the pump at any time. It's just when I am going real slow, like backing out of the driveway and turning at the same time, and then turning and moving forward that it seems to have alot of effort to turn, once the r's are up and up to speed it is fine. When I get to work and park, same thing hard effort to turn at low speed.

Appreciating all of the replies.....Tom

noonie

If you're tracking straight and can let go of the wheel, you don't need any adjustment.

Your pump may be just worn beyond an acceptable point. Just like an alternator, they put out less flow at a lower rpm, but it should be acceptable at idle.
As mentioned, clean out the flow and relief valve, bleed properly as described above and run till all the foaming is gone and then test for squealing at lock.
The only better way to test the pump is to use a gauge.

wombvette

If you turn it hard to lock and hold it hard against the lock the engine should go into labor, and the pump will growl. If it doesn't do that, there is not much pressure there.

74 LS4-454

Sounds good on the adjustment.....that's what I was thinking....

How do you test with a gauge? I imagine that procedure is in the Service Manual.
Will do the above this weekend and see what happens....
thanks for the reply.........

74 LS4-454

So what you are saying is that I need to hear the growl and the engine go into labor, (when holding it hard against lock) which would tell me that the pump is putting out the correct pressure???? And if not, would that mean that the pump is worn as noonie suggested???
Am I understanding this right?
You know how it gets, when you get to the age!!!

Matt Gruber

put a fish scale on the steering wheel and see how many lbs. it takes to turn stopped.
7# is normal.
i didn't like that, so i modified the CV. now it is only 3#.

wombvette

Yup