Kevin68

In getting my fuel return line back in operation, I had to replace my fuel pump with the correct one. I had a hard time holding the push rod in position for this install. I tried grease (as suggested in the service manual) but ended up using a hacksaw blade (as suggested in the instructions that came with the AC Delco pump). My wife held the rod in place while I positioned the pump from underneath and got the bolts threaded.

My first question: Is it possible that I could have twisted the pump enough while aligning the second bolt that the push rod dropped? I think I heard the familiar tap of the rod dropping, but the wife doesn't think so.

Second question: If the rod did drop (i.e.: not resting on the pump arm), is there aything I can damage by trying to start the car? My guess is not because the rod at that point is 2 or more inches from the cam lobe, and the car will crank and never start because there is no fuel getting to it. The car has been on stands for the last 4 months, so I'm sure the carb bowls are dry.

Third question: Is is even possible to get the pump to smoothly bolt up if the rod is out of position? It certainly doesn't look like it, and the bolts spun all the way down with no more torque than light finger twisting with the pump and mating surface flush.

Fourth Question:
I had the gas tank out, and the fuel lines are dry. Do I need to fill the lines to give the pump a prime?

The motor is a ZZ4, if that matters.

Thanks,
Kevin

MelWff

I wouldnt take a chance on it. Pull the pump and do it again. On older blocks there was a plug in the fuel pump passage way on the front of the block. You could remove the plug and install a long bolt to hold the push rod in place while installing the pump.

jnb5101

get some transmission assembly grease. that stuff is sticky as all get-out. it will hold the rod in place while you install the pump.

TimAT

No way will the pump easily mount to the block if the push rod is not up. At the least, the bolts "Might" start, but most likely not. If the tank was out and is known "dry" you might pull the suction hose off the pump and blow a little air thru the filler neck to help the pump. Rarely needed, but it can't hurt and will also check the integrity of the rubber lines. IF the rubber lines are cracked, pushing fuel thru them will get you a drip.

59LesPaul

Works every time!

drwet

I don't think there is any way you could have the pump bolted up without the push rod in the right position. Every small block I have ever had has a bolt hole that lines up with the push rod. There will be a bolt in there to stop oil from leaking out. Remove that bolt and replace it with a longer one that will bottom against the push rod and hold it in place while you install the pump. Then remove the longer bolt and put the short one back in.

iokepakai

Another tip:rotate the engine so the pushrod is on the cam's base circle.Pump should bolt right up with no problem.I have used both the grease trick and the longer bolt to hold the push rod in place.Once you fill the tank, gravity will fill the lines and prime the pump.Pour some fuel down the carb vent to fill the fuel bowls.Should fire right up if you have your timing close..

Kevin68

Thanks guys,
I found out about the bolt trick after I put it on, but there is no bolt that lines up with the pushrod. One of the timing cover's bolts looks close. So I just went and rechecked and I do have a bolt hole but no bolt. I ran a bolt in there and, sure enough, it does appear to go in far enough to reach the push rod. I will plug that hole when I'm done.

The cam is on the base circle.

I'm more familiar with 68 Pontiac motors. They don't have a push rod, just a 6-7" arm on the pump.

Tim,
I am in agreement that there is no way it would have bolted up easy if the rod was all the way down. And even it the rod was all the way down, I don't see how any damage could be done by cranking...other than draining my battery. This was a major PITA to get that thing off and on. It might have been worth it to drain the radiator and move the heater hoses to access the bolts. I put in all new rubber, front and back.

If I can get agreement that I'm not going to tear anything up when I try to start it if the rod is all the way down in the pocket, then that is what I will do.



.

larrywalk

If the pump is bolted in place with the pump arm bent to the side of the pushrod, the pump is ruined. Further, if the engine is cranked or started, the pushrod will be jammed in as far as it will go toward the pump and won't return to the cam. No fuel will pump and the engine won't run (at least for long). So, it's either ruined or it's not. If it is ruined, no further damage will occur, but it's probably not. I'd give it a try - you're probably ok - no guarantees!

As far as the trick of temporarily pinning the push rod in place with a longer 3/8" bolt, the bolt hole to do this is the upper hole of the right hand pair - this pair is about 1 1/2" apart vertically. There's a pair on each side of the block down near the oil pan rail. (These were used as forward motor mount bosses in the '50s.) You were also correct in turning the engine to position the fuel pump pushrod on the base of its cam lobe - good thinking there!

vettezobsezzed

I've used the hard grease with success, never tried the bolt, just saw it on tv the other day for the first

Brcmpbl

Did this on the 70, used the bolt. Was a major pain primarily due to my AC compressor bazooka being in the way.