Borgeson Install
02-28-2015, 09:13 AM
#261
Racer
02-28-2015, 09:17 AM
#262
Racer
02-28-2015, 10:36 AM
#263
Racer
Well thanks guys! With the right tool, the right hammer�� and the right amount of heat the pitman arm came right off��. Then I unbolted the master cylinder and moved it a few inches toward the fender as suggested(thanks!) I got the box out! Next is to remove and rebuild the power steering pump. Did anyone else reposition the return line nipple? If so, how far did you turn it and what direction, 180 °, 90 ° toward the motor or to the fender?
Last edited by Greatsteaks; 02-28-2015 at 01:57 PM.
02-28-2015, 03:20 PM
#264
Racer
Glad to read you got it off. I left the nipple where it was, it works fine like that. Just get the new lines warm before installing them, it makes them a lot more flexible.
Well thanks guys! With the right tool, the right hammer�� and the right amount of heat the pitman arm came right off��. Then I unbolted the master cylinder and moved it a few inches toward the fender as suggested(thanks!) I got the box out! Next is to remove and rebuild the power steering pump. Did anyone else reposition the return line nipple? If so, how far did you turn it and what direction, 180 °, 90 ° toward the motor or to the fender?
03-02-2015, 07:46 PM
#265
Race Director
Had to buy a 3/4" socket set today, only way I could have gotten a 1 5/16 socket for the pitman arm nut. Also bought a three arm puller, won't work, need to get a two arm puller to get the pitman arm off while the box is still on the car. I have the box and rag joint unattached to the car but can't get it out with the p-arm attached to the box because of the side pipe headers. Something is telling me I'm going to have to take the side pipe and header off to do this right. Anyone do this with side pipe header(small block) attached?
03-02-2015, 10:46 PM
#266
Racer
New box arrived today. I did a test fit just to see where I needed to dimple my headers and guess what, it dropped right in, no mods nended! Adjusted th steering shaft length a few times and the new box is installed, its bolted in and attached to the steering wheel but that's it. Suspension needs to go back on before I can hook up the rest of the steering.
The following users liked this post:
augiedoggy (05-16-2023)
03-03-2015, 08:52 AM
#267
Racer
Great news, sounds like you're chugging along with it. I'm hoping this weekend I'll be able to take the car out and give the new box as well as spreader bar a try.
New box arrived today. I did a test fit just to see where I needed to dimple my headers and guess what, it dropped right in, no mods nended! Adjusted th steering shaft length a few times and the new box is installed, its bolted in and attached to the steering wheel but that's it. Suspension needs to go back on before I can hook up the rest of the steering.
03-03-2015, 09:28 AM
#268
Racer
I guess there is a "slight" possibility I might be able to do the same depending on the weather and work. It has been cold and snowing almost every day here. Glad to here the weather might be good enough in NJ, I grew up in Morris county for the first 21 years of my life and my parents still live there. I moved to Denver to get away from the north east weather, lol. Denver actually gets very little snow compared to the rest of Colorado.
03-03-2015, 10:15 AM
#269
Racer
Where in Morris county? I grew up and still live in Pequannock.
I guess there is a "slight" possibility I might be able to do the same depending on the weather and work. It has been cold and snowing almost every day here. Glad to here the weather might be good enough in NJ, I grew up in Morris county for the first 21 years of my life and my parents still live there. I moved to Denver to get away from the north east weather, lol. Denver actually gets very little snow compared to the rest of Colorado.
03-03-2015, 02:16 PM
#273
Racer
So in case anyone is wondering or doing a search:
OBX stainless steel side pipe headers and a Borgeson Box fit a c3 corvette (1971 at least) small block without modifying the headers. I know I tried searching for this answer and could not fine one. I even sent Borgeson photos of my old box and header with less then 1/4" between them and they told me it would not fit without modifying the drivers side header. The new box is taller and there is much more room between them now. I'll post a pic later.
OBX stainless steel side pipe headers and a Borgeson Box fit a c3 corvette (1971 at least) small block without modifying the headers. I know I tried searching for this answer and could not fine one. I even sent Borgeson photos of my old box and header with less then 1/4" between them and they told me it would not fit without modifying the drivers side header. The new box is taller and there is much more room between them now. I'll post a pic later.
The following users liked this post:
augiedoggy (05-16-2023)
03-03-2015, 02:22 PM
#274
Racer
Great post, let me add to it.
The Borgeson will fit in a 1980 running the stock engine with no modifications needed to Doug's side pipe headers.
The Borgeson will fit in a 1980 running the stock engine with no modifications needed to Doug's side pipe headers.
So in case anyone is wondering or doing a search:
OBX stainless steel side pipe headers and a Borgeson Box fit a c3 corvette (1971 at least) small block without modifying the headers. I know I tried searching for this answer and could not fine one. I even sent Borgeson photos of my old box and header with less then 1/4" between them and they told me it would not fit without modifying the drivers side header. The new box is taller and there is much more room between them now. I'll post a pic later.
OBX stainless steel side pipe headers and a Borgeson Box fit a c3 corvette (1971 at least) small block without modifying the headers. I know I tried searching for this answer and could not fine one. I even sent Borgeson photos of my old box and header with less then 1/4" between them and they told me it would not fit without modifying the drivers side header. The new box is taller and there is much more room between them now. I'll post a pic later.
03-09-2015, 03:18 PM
#275
Race Director
I put the Borgeson box in Sunday on my 1971- 350. The brake lines needed to be slightly re-bent, moved. The attachment to the frame was loosened for the brake lines and proportioning block, remounted the block in the stock position, could not use the first mount for the brake line clamp as it was too close to the steering box.
I had to shim the box to line it up with the column. One 3/4 washer under the rear (column mount lined it up perfectly.
The box arrived in full right position.
To line up the drive , I marked the box and rotated it full right , then full left and marked the center (1.5) rotations. Marked the column for top and did the same. I marked the rag joint for top on both the box and column. The steering wheel locked in the center position with the key which made it easy to hold. I took apart the rag joint and assembled the joint with the box in the car, bolts loose. Tightened the box bolts, then the rag joint. P>S> Soaking the column for 3 days helped and it moved fairly easy.
I used a 1.5 inch wire wheel with a drill to clean the splines on the steering column, the rag joint went on "easy" and fit great.
A previous poster said the joint failed rather quickly after installation, maybe a misalignment caused it for him. I can see how it could damage the joint. The original position allows the shaft to be longer accepting the slight misalignment.
It looks like it will be close for the clutch linkage, but the motor has to be finished first.
As a final test I turned the wheel. 1.5 right from center and 1.5 left from center. hopefully the rest will line up.
I had to shim the box to line it up with the column. One 3/4 washer under the rear (column mount lined it up perfectly.
The box arrived in full right position.
To line up the drive , I marked the box and rotated it full right , then full left and marked the center (1.5) rotations. Marked the column for top and did the same. I marked the rag joint for top on both the box and column. The steering wheel locked in the center position with the key which made it easy to hold. I took apart the rag joint and assembled the joint with the box in the car, bolts loose. Tightened the box bolts, then the rag joint. P>S> Soaking the column for 3 days helped and it moved fairly easy.
I used a 1.5 inch wire wheel with a drill to clean the splines on the steering column, the rag joint went on "easy" and fit great.A previous poster said the joint failed rather quickly after installation, maybe a misalignment caused it for him. I can see how it could damage the joint. The original position allows the shaft to be longer accepting the slight misalignment.
It looks like it will be close for the clutch linkage, but the motor has to be finished first.
As a final test I turned the wheel. 1.5 right from center and 1.5 left from center. hopefully the rest will line up.
Last edited by BLUE1972; 03-09-2015 at 03:21 PM. Reason: spell
03-09-2015, 05:35 PM
#276
Racer
I man, you cheated, you took the body off, lol.
Mine went in last week and I finished up installing the suspension and tie rods and VBP sleeves. Drives nice around the block. Goes in tomorrow for a full alignment, can't wait!
Mine went in last week and I finished up installing the suspension and tie rods and VBP sleeves. Drives nice around the block. Goes in tomorrow for a full alignment, can't wait!
03-09-2015, 08:59 PM
#277
Le Mans Master
The lower column mount plate has very large holes, just loosen the nuts inside the car where it meets the firewall and slide it around for alignment, then tighten the nuts. Should not require shimming the box from the frame.
Last edited by '75; 03-09-2015 at 09:02 PM.
03-10-2015, 07:38 PM
#278
Racer
All finished, had a 4 wheel alignment today. What a difference! If I ever buy an old car again the suspension will be the first thing I make sure is solid, not the most sexy improvement to the eyes but definitely the most felt in the seat, feels like I have 50 more horse power! Accelerates better and stops better too.
Alignment shop got 3.5 degrees of caster and 1/16 tow in. If anyone in the Denver area needs there corvette aligned by a shop that knows what they are doing, "Elroys alignment and brakes" is the place to go! Old school shop with modern equipment. Family owned 3 generation shop with the dad and two sons in the shop daily.
Alignment shop got 3.5 degrees of caster and 1/16 tow in. If anyone in the Denver area needs there corvette aligned by a shop that knows what they are doing, "Elroys alignment and brakes" is the place to go! Old school shop with modern equipment. Family owned 3 generation shop with the dad and two sons in the shop daily.
03-11-2015, 10:14 PM
#279
Race Director
Will try loosing the floor mount bolts, there does not look like a lot of space. Will let you know. The motor will be at least 2 weeks, as I'm going with a roller setup. So there is time to play.
One thing that did make a difference was using a 2" wire wheel in my drill on the column splines, (to clean them) the rag joint was tight but "slid" on with minimum force.
thanks
03-18-2015, 02:10 PM
#280
Burning Brakes
Well, this is an interesting thread. But, having read what’s required I'm happy to admit that the fitting of a Borgeson system is not a job I’m up to!
So, way back near the beginning of the thread someone mentioned sticking with a rebuilt PSCV from “Gary R”. So, who is Gary R, please?
So, way back near the beginning of the thread someone mentioned sticking with a rebuilt PSCV from “Gary R”. So, who is Gary R, please?
